Tuscan V6 trunnion query.
Discussion
Just whipped off my front trunnions to clean and oil . I am not familiar with cars using trunnions so can i ask a couple of basic questions.
Should the wishbone/trunnion through bolt be tightened up "fully" and if so should the bush within the trunnion have enough "give" for the trunnion changing angle through suspension travel.?
If not then what is the method ?
Also i assume you screw the trunnion up as far as possible up the threads but allowing for full steering lock?
Any other tips while i am at this job?
Cheers sandy
Should the wishbone/trunnion through bolt be tightened up "fully" and if so should the bush within the trunnion have enough "give" for the trunnion changing angle through suspension travel.?
If not then what is the method ?
Also i assume you screw the trunnion up as far as possible up the threads but allowing for full steering lock?
Any other tips while i am at this job?
Cheers sandy
There should be a steel sleeve through the trunnion bushes, so you should be able to fully tighten that bolt, and the trunnion should still be moveable.
Thread part should be set to have as much thread as poss engaged, without crushing the top seal too much, but enough to seal out the dust and crap that may hit it, and allowing for steering lock (both ways) for both trunnions.
And refill trunnions with EP90 (diff grade oil)
Also whilst it's apart - check carefully that trunnion bolt holes in lower arm are still more or less circular, as wear can make them oblong, and then your geometry can go off. Good idea to double check for bend, wear in the threaded part, bend can happen if it's been kerbed etc.
Thread part should be set to have as much thread as poss engaged, without crushing the top seal too much, but enough to seal out the dust and crap that may hit it, and allowing for steering lock (both ways) for both trunnions.
And refill trunnions with EP90 (diff grade oil)
Also whilst it's apart - check carefully that trunnion bolt holes in lower arm are still more or less circular, as wear can make them oblong, and then your geometry can go off. Good idea to double check for bend, wear in the threaded part, bend can happen if it's been kerbed etc.
Edited by RCK974X on Saturday 29th November 19:41
RCK974X said:
There should be a steel sleeve through the trunnion bushes, so you should be able to fully tighten that bolt, and the trunnion should still be moveable.
Thread part should be set to have as much thread as poss engaged, without crushing the top seal too much, but enough to seal out the dust and crap that may hit it, and allowing for steering lock (both ways) for both trunnions.
And refill trunnions with EP90 (diff grade oil)
Also whilst it's apart - check carefully that trunnion bolt holes in lower arm are still more or less circular, as wear can make them oblong, and then your geometry can go off. Good idea to double check for bend, wear in the threaded part, bend can happen if it's been kerbed etc.
Thanks mate, i think the trunnions have poly bushes in them so are very hard, hence my worry that clamping up the steel sleeve would not allow much bush movement. The uprights(solid type) and trunnions are very low miles so are in perfect condition.Thread part should be set to have as much thread as poss engaged, without crushing the top seal too much, but enough to seal out the dust and crap that may hit it, and allowing for steering lock (both ways) for both trunnions.
And refill trunnions with EP90 (diff grade oil)
Also whilst it's apart - check carefully that trunnion bolt holes in lower arm are still more or less circular, as wear can make them oblong, and then your geometry can go off. Good idea to double check for bend, wear in the threaded part, bend can happen if it's been kerbed etc.
Edited by RCK974X on Saturday 29th November 19:41
Cheers Sandy
RFC1 said:
Thanks mate, i think the trunnions have poly bushes in them so are very hard, hence my worry that clamping up the steel sleeve would not allow much bush movement. The uprights(solid type) and trunnions are very low miles so are in perfect condition.
Cheers Sandy
If they are solid. IE no drilling up the centre then I would use a mix of EP90 and red synthetic grease which you mix with your finger to a thick paste which has less tendency to just run dry after a little while.Cheers Sandy
N.
RFC1 said:
I am going to struggle to get any red synthetic grease for a few days. Could I use normal moly grease instead?
Sandy
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/371049979555?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0Sandy
This is what I use. Not cheap but good. Moly will be fine I dare say.. As long as they are stripped frequently dependant on mileage and exposure you won't have problems.. It takes a sunday morning if you get up and have an early breakfast.
Drop me a line when you get a mo.
N.
Dollyman1850 said:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/371049979555?limghl...
This is what I use. Not cheap but good. Moly will be fine I dare say.. As long as they are stripped frequently dependant on mileage and exposure you won't have problems.. It takes a sunday morning if you get up and have an early breakfast.
Drop me a line when you get a mo.
N.
Would drop you a line if I could mate!? This is what I use. Not cheap but good. Moly will be fine I dare say.. As long as they are stripped frequently dependant on mileage and exposure you won't have problems.. It takes a sunday morning if you get up and have an early breakfast.
Drop me a line when you get a mo.
N.
Sandy
ATE399J said:
If the uprights are solid l am sure Neil is right in suggesting the use of his special brew but do check that they are solid before you go that route. If they are drilled then EP90 on its own is the manufacturer's spec as far as l understand.
P.
Defenitly solid Phil.P.
Sandy
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