wilwood 4 pot calipers
wilwood 4 pot calipers
Author
Discussion

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Thursday 4th December 2014
quotequote all
My 3000S is suffering from Brake Pad squeal and i would like to stop this or reduce it.
I have 4 Pot Alloy Calipers which were fitted back in Aug 1999 but the car has not done many miles since.
Maybe i need to replace the pads with softer ones for normal road use.
Could someone tell me how i can identify the calipers so i can then buy replacement pads.
The pads fitted have little chunks of pad which have disappearedeek.
Also ventilated disks have been fitted.
The calipers have a spacer between the two halves to accomodate the thickness of the ventilated disks.
I Wonder if Adrian has some ideas please
thanks in advance Alan

tomtrout

595 posts

184 months

Thursday 4th December 2014
quotequote all
Stick some 3m anti-squeal tape to the back of the pads. It cured my very noisy mintex pads.

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Thursday 4th December 2014
quotequote all
where can i get the anti-squeal tape, never heard of it , does it exist
Alan

tomtrout

595 posts

184 months

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Friday 5th December 2014
quotequote all
Post pictures of the pads, to show the missing bits. Are the Wilwood calipers intended for street use? Do they have dust seals on the pistons?

Best,
B.

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Friday 5th December 2014
quotequote all
o.k. here's 2 photos



i don't know the model or reference for the Wilwood caliper

there is no ident on caliper to identify

Alan

Russell Mc

573 posts

172 months

Friday 5th December 2014
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Look like Wilwood Dynalite

Adrian@

4,503 posts

303 months

Friday 5th December 2014
quotequote all
My Willwood kits were made obsolete by progression on brake materials by the big brands, who up until recently would not supply their version of brake materials to companies like Willwood. Standard calipers with current day materials would out perform them because of it.
Adrian@
OP YHM...I have look at this with afresh this morning (I have had a few emails over night)...I will PM you again

Edited by Adrian@ on Saturday 6th December 07:55

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Saturday 6th December 2014
quotequote all
My knowledge of potential brake issues is limited, but I suppose, it's possible, that if the brakes were run hot, and the car was parked, without cooling the brakes, the pads could weld themselves to the rotors. Next time it's set in motion, the little bits tear out.

Also, if stored, for prolonged periods, similar things can happen.

Best
B.

griff 200

509 posts

214 months

Saturday 6th December 2014
quotequote all
Judging by the groves seem to come from the slots small stones could well have caused this after a trip in the gravel trap ????? Richard

Adrian@

4,503 posts

303 months

Saturday 6th December 2014
quotequote all
IMHO the pads look fine ...worn out after 15 years! the pad is a very aggressive pad, with a ratio of two pad sets to one disc. (the disc shows), it is not being used to it's potential, as the materials are running cold, it's dragging of pieces of material.
Adrian@

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Sunday 7th December 2014
quotequote all
Wow! 15 years!

Sounds like a set of EBC red stuff pads would make this a beautiful set-up, if they're now available. What diameter are the rotors?

Best,
B.

Dollyman1850

6,322 posts

271 months

Sunday 7th December 2014
quotequote all
Slow M said:
Wow! 15 years!

Sounds like a set of EBC red stuff pads would make this a beautiful set-up, if they're now available. What diameter are the rotors?

Best,
B.
I have yellow stuff in the racer which take a couple of laps to warm up..red stuff is not much softer so I would think for a road car it will make things very hairy..Everyone tells me that EBC stuff is crap and I should switch to Mintex or Ferodo but I find them to be very good giving a progressively harder pedal and no fade ater a 40 min practise runs where I am on line but trying. as opposed to working them harder in a race situation. They also are quite sacrificial in terms of Disc so they work for me..I wouldn't recommend them in a road car though since they do need to be kept on the blood.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 7th December 08:32

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Sunday 7th December 2014
quotequote all
the Discs (rotors) are standard dia but they are ventilated.
The calipers have a spacer to accomodate the thicker vented discs.
The calipers are in very good condition and all pistons move freely no problem.
A nice bit of kit.
To me it looks like i need pads not too hard to be easy on discs and to warm up quick for normal road driving.
I don't plan to do trackdays
Maybe it seems a waste of 4 pot calipers but they are already fitted and look so good
Alan

Dollyman1850

6,322 posts

271 months

Sunday 7th December 2014
quotequote all
plasticpig72 said:
the Discs (rotors) are standard dia but they are ventilated.
The calipers have a spacer to accomodate the thicker vented discs.
The calipers are in very good condition and all pistons move freely no problem.
A nice bit of kit.
To me it looks like i need pads not too hard to be easy on discs and to warm up quick for normal road driving.
I don't plan to do trackdays
Maybe it seems a waste of 4 pot calipers but they are already fitted and look so good
Alan
The discs look ridged and at the very least I would be squaring them up on a lathe and getting rid of any ridges.
The pads fitted are as Adrian said probably too hard for the application.
Adrian may well know more about that particular set up but if you are struggling you should be able to identify the pads from a Demon Tweeks catalogue who show the overall pad shape on their catalogue.. They are not unlike M16 type pads but the chamfers on the corners slightly different.
if you are just using a road car for road driving then you need soft pads. Race pads tend to be harder and chew up discs.
If you are using what you have then just switch over to soft pads.. the existing discs look to need truing up though.
N.

Adrian@

4,503 posts

303 months

Sunday 7th December 2014
quotequote all
All the customers that I fitted these caliper to were advised to use this and clean/prep,replace it at service points, as the caliper pistons have no internal springs as OE (they could be added, but the kit was expensive already) and it needs replacing as the pads wear.
I will get back to the OP (I have emailed him regarding this) on Monday with a pad set suited/matched to what other people are currently running on their road cars.
Adrian@

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Monday 8th December 2014
quotequote all
Dollyman1850 said:
Slow M said:
Wow! 15 years!

Sounds like a set of EBC red stuff pads would make this a beautiful set-up, if they're now available. What diameter are the rotors?

Best,
B.
I have yellow stuff in the racer which take a couple of laps to warm up..red stuff is not much softer so I would think for a road car it will make things very hairy..Everyone tells me that EBC stuff is crap and I should switch to Mintex or Ferodo but I find them to be very good giving a progressively harder pedal and no fade ater a 40 min practise runs where I am on line but trying. as opposed to working them harder in a race situation. They also are quite sacrificial in terms of Disc so they work for me..I wouldn't recommend them in a road car though since they do need to be kept on the blood.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 7th December 08:32
Neil,

Red Stuff is formulated for street cars, so they should require no heating up, as your yellows do. The bedding in period is hard to believe, though, but I read somewhere that they've revised that type to bed-in more rapidly (less excruciatingly slow)..

Best,
B.

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Tuesday 9th December 2014
quotequote all
well i've just ordered OE spec pads and i know they will be EXACTLY right for the job. Before i fit them i will get the discs dressed up a little and they will be as good as new.
Alan