E93A to 100E or better??? Help
Discussion
Right, I have recently bought a 60's ford based kit car, an 1961 Ashley 1172, but this one is a bit more unique as it has a MK2 Halifax chassis which is 1 of 3 to have that shassis and body type.
The chassis is E93A based with mechanical drums all round and a slightly modified diff to fit drop link rear suspension. the engine has been replaces by the later 100E engine and gearbox but everything else left the same.
I want to change from a Three speed to the Anglia 4 speed, but to do the gearbox conversion, the whole rear of the car needs changing.
I was going to drop in a 105E differential to get the power limits and hydraulic brakes on the rear but because the hubs change so dramatically, I'd need to change the front hubs as well.
so my question is, is there a conversion to get E93A front wheel hubs to hydraulic AND to a bolt pattern near to 4 x 108?
The chassis is E93A based with mechanical drums all round and a slightly modified diff to fit drop link rear suspension. the engine has been replaces by the later 100E engine and gearbox but everything else left the same.
I want to change from a Three speed to the Anglia 4 speed, but to do the gearbox conversion, the whole rear of the car needs changing.
I was going to drop in a 105E differential to get the power limits and hydraulic brakes on the rear but because the hubs change so dramatically, I'd need to change the front hubs as well.
so my question is, is there a conversion to get E93A front wheel hubs to hydraulic AND to a bolt pattern near to 4 x 108?
Right, dug out the old note book...
The E93A / 103E spindle uses 2 tapered roller bearings, a larger inner bearing and smaller outer bearing. To make up the larger bearing, you will have to use the part of the bearing that has the rollers in it from the E93A / 103E, while the other part (which presses into the hub) is from the 105E. I’m told that the small outer bearing is the same on both the E93A /103E and 105E, so (I think) either should fit.
The best drums to use would be 123E (1200cc Anglia) ones as they’re larger diameter than the 105E (997cc Anglia).
Something else to think about would be keeping it within the DVLA’s 8-point rule to retain your existing registration. You need to have a minimum of 8 points made up from…
5-points – the original unmodified chassis (this is mandatory)
2-points – suspension (front and back)
2-points – steering assembly
2-points – axles (both)
2-points – transmission
2-points – engine
In your case you’ll have the chassis (5-points), the steering assembly (2-points), the engine (2-points) and, if you retain the transverse spring at the rear, a further 2-points for the suspension – all taking you comfortably over the 8-point threshold.
Rich G
The E93A / 103E spindle uses 2 tapered roller bearings, a larger inner bearing and smaller outer bearing. To make up the larger bearing, you will have to use the part of the bearing that has the rollers in it from the E93A / 103E, while the other part (which presses into the hub) is from the 105E. I’m told that the small outer bearing is the same on both the E93A /103E and 105E, so (I think) either should fit.
The best drums to use would be 123E (1200cc Anglia) ones as they’re larger diameter than the 105E (997cc Anglia).
Something else to think about would be keeping it within the DVLA’s 8-point rule to retain your existing registration. You need to have a minimum of 8 points made up from…
5-points – the original unmodified chassis (this is mandatory)
2-points – suspension (front and back)
2-points – steering assembly
2-points – axles (both)
2-points – transmission
2-points – engine
In your case you’ll have the chassis (5-points), the steering assembly (2-points), the engine (2-points) and, if you retain the transverse spring at the rear, a further 2-points for the suspension – all taking you comfortably over the 8-point threshold.
Rich G
About that, the Halifax chassis did away with the transverse leaf spring and replaced it with drop link. the engine might have been swapped out as I think the original engine is a E93A and it has 100E engine and box so I might have lost those points.
I dont really need to worry about brake size, the car only ways something like 700 kilos.
Chassis wont get modified so that 5 points
I might have to add a bar to keep the rear axle central so i might not get those 2 points but im not really changing how It works, just changing the diff thats in it so hopefully not
I might keep the steering the same, either that or upgrade it to rack and pinion. there goes another 2 points
the car came from the Ashley factory as a kit rather than making a kit. so it might not matter?
I dont really need to worry about brake size, the car only ways something like 700 kilos.
Chassis wont get modified so that 5 points
I might have to add a bar to keep the rear axle central so i might not get those 2 points but im not really changing how It works, just changing the diff thats in it so hopefully not
I might keep the steering the same, either that or upgrade it to rack and pinion. there goes another 2 points
the car came from the Ashley factory as a kit rather than making a kit. so it might not matter?
Hi There
could you help me with a problem please?
I have an EB 50 special with a Halifax Chassis. The rear diff is strapped together with rope temporarily as there seems to be something missing, maybe some kind of "drop link" .There were a pair of coil over shocks in a box. there is a rear panhard rod, but it is not attached to anything.
I can't find any drawings of a Halifax chassis, would anyone be able to let me have some photos showing how the rear axle is restrained?
Thanks
Andrew
could you help me with a problem please?
I have an EB 50 special with a Halifax Chassis. The rear diff is strapped together with rope temporarily as there seems to be something missing, maybe some kind of "drop link" .There were a pair of coil over shocks in a box. there is a rear panhard rod, but it is not attached to anything.
I can't find any drawings of a Halifax chassis, would anyone be able to let me have some photos showing how the rear axle is restrained?
Thanks
Andrew
MaxRothery said:
Right, I have recently bought a 60's ford based kit car, an 1961 Ashley 1172, but this one is a bit more unique as it has a MK2 Halifax chassis which is 1 of 3 to have that shassis and body type.
Interesting.....it's not metallic blue with a rather nice sporty body and gullwing doors is it? 
daglocks said:
Hi There
could you help me with a problem please?
I have an EB 50 special with a Halifax Chassis. The rear diff is strapped together with rope temporarily as there seems to be something missing, maybe some kind of "drop link" .There were a pair of coil over shocks in a box. there is a rear panhard rod, but it is not attached to anything.
I can't find any drawings of a Halifax chassis, would anyone be able to let me have some photos showing how the rear axle is restrained?
Thanks
Andrew
There may not be enough detail, but I've a page about the Halifax chassis here:could you help me with a problem please?
I have an EB 50 special with a Halifax Chassis. The rear diff is strapped together with rope temporarily as there seems to be something missing, maybe some kind of "drop link" .There were a pair of coil over shocks in a box. there is a rear panhard rod, but it is not attached to anything.
I can't find any drawings of a Halifax chassis, would anyone be able to let me have some photos showing how the rear axle is restrained?
Thanks
Andrew
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/halifax-special-bui...
hth, RJ
I used to have a Tornado Typhoon which was E93A based. I changed the front brakes from the original rod system to hydraulic by using brake slave cylinders from a VW - sorry cant remember the model but they fitted with only a small modification. The Master Cylinder came from a stock that I rummaged through on the shelves of Speedy Spares near Brighton.
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