POR 15

[WWESTY]

Hi All

I know that this stuff has been recommended by a lot of people here. However, another site I frequent has been discussing its use and has come up with:

I spoke to Frost today and they told me that the POR15 Permanent Rust Prevention is only to be used on bare metal and is not suitable for using over existing paint, the Chassis coat black paint can be used over existing paint but does not have any rust prevention properties!!!!

(Frost being the UK distributor/agent)



Any views/comments????

[docevi1]

I had the same thing when I called them - I was going to paint it on over the top of Hammerite and they had the plumbers "eeesssshshhshshshh" type noise and said that it simply wouldn't work - it would have no rust prvention properties nor would it take to the painted surface.

[puffsorted]

Yep, it only likes being painted on a nice rusty surface. Paint it on something smooth, like power coating!!, and it runs straight off. It will also only properly protect if its in direct contact with the metal hence why don't paint it on over paint (or waxoyl). I found doing the outriggers a real pain as I didn't know what was best to do in regard of ripping off the good power coating where it meets the blistered bits. The top wishbones though were easy as there was not much powercoat left - and these have come up a treat as they were just lightly surface rusted to start with.

Puffsorted

[sparkythecat]

puffsorted said:

Yep, it only likes being painted on a nice rusty surface. Paint it on something smooth, like power coating!!, and it runs straight off. It will also only properly protect if its in direct contact with the metal hence why don't paint it on over paint (or waxoyl). I found doing the outriggers a real pain as I didn't know what was best to do in regard of ripping off the good power coating where it meets the blistered bits. The top wishbones though were easy as there was not much powercoat left - and these have come up a treat as they were just lightly surface rusted to start with. Puffsorted

I find that out now , 2 days after ordering some of the expensive bloody stuff . Surely I dont't have to scrape all the powder coating off my chassis to make it stick. Generally most of it's ok. There's just the odd little bit that's flaking. I thought I could overpaint the good bits as well to give them added protection.

indeed

[WWESTY]

Sorry Sparky....

So, what if you just "key" the surface of any coated bits.....file/sandpaper/?

I suppose even if that means it "takes" to the surface, the rustproofing properties are still not applicable???

[que1]

I used this on my chassie, wish bones ect about 2 years ago and frost supplied a "tie coat primer " this had to be applied first over any excisting paint, then the POR15. Word of warning, try not to get any of this stuff on your skin it WILL NOT come off. It's well worth the money.....makes hammerite look like emulsion
Q1

[mrmaggit]

Joolz did Wols wishbones earlier this year, replaced the bushes at the same time. A local company bead blasted the wishbones prior to painting, and I must say that the road salt/water/mush washes straight off it.

[sparky11]

OK, this is interesting. I am about to get the chassis done on my 96 4.0. Its been well treated and only has (very little) surface rust, the coating seems in fairly good nick - I just thought i'd be a bit 'preventative'.

I was going to have it painted with POR15 then Waxoyl coated over the top, reading the above it would seem that the POR15 might be a waste of time. Am I better off using Hammerite or just any other 'rust-treatment' paint?

Cheers

Mark

[spivvy]

brilliant product

hopefully this will answer your questions

http://prp-porshop.com/porstordosan.html


but it does have to be painted onto metal/rust

[2 sheds]

How much does it cost ? and quantity ?

Tim

[sparkythecat]

2 sheds said:

How much does it cost ? and quantity ? Tim

Frost sell this stuff. It's £26 +p&p for one US quart (946ml to you sir!).

[victormeldrew]

If your powder coating is strting to come off then I suspect it won't take a lot of effort to get back to bare metal!

The tie coat primer is available, but I found Nitromors and a wallpaper scraper to be a cheaper option which gave peace of mind. I took the time to get back to metal, removing all the rust with one of the other products from Frosts, then acid etching the surface before applying the POR.

Depends how long you want the job to last. Remember, 99% preparation, 1% finish.

[spivvy]

i did virtually the whole chassis when the body was off chipped scrapped and rubbed off all loose powder coat ,
acid etched 2 coats por15,top coat primer and 2 more coats of a protective paint , a tin will do almost a complete S3 chassis , but the paint does go off after a while ,and as stated stays on your skin and hair for months

if you interested some pictures and information here

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/html/work_in_progress.html

[jsr]

I've recently used Ronsell Metal Paint on the front section of my chassis - does the same job.

Still got to do the rear though.

[victormeldrew]

spivvy said:

i did virtually the whole chassis when the body was off chipped scrapped and rubbed off all loose powder coat , acid etched 2 coats por15,top coat primer and 2 more coats of a protective paint , a tin will do almost a complete S3 chassis , but the paint does go off after a while ,and as stated stays on your skin and hair for months if you interested some pictures and information here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/html/work_in_progress.html

Spivvy, lots of useful stuff on your site for anyone considering a body off restoration - nice one.

[spivvy]

unfortunately i have been doing some body on modifications

[victormeldrew]

Mmmmm, that'll need more than a lick of paint. Hope it doesn't sting too much.