Nikon D70 - First shot

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Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Well, here it is - the inevitable 'first shot' post. Here it is, the first shot i've taken with it thats worth sharing!

www.davidhambly.co.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Nature&id=heavens_gate_2_s

Don

28,377 posts

285 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
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Glad to see you're enjoying your new camera!

Why do I expect four people in uniform to leap out the picture....

simpo two

85,578 posts

266 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Hi Dave,
Nice composition (one of the hardest things to crack IMO). Main hiccup is that you've run into the problem of exposure latitude: the chip can only cope with so much contrast and one effect of this is that highlights get burnt out - eg your sky. After a while you learn to be wary for this! Setting the monitor to Highlights mode is a good start: it gives you fair warning of the problem. Dial in -EV until the flashing stops, or try using autobracket to increase your chances of getting a 'good' shot. If in doubt, err towards underexposure as you can get details back from shadows, but not from burnt highlights. Finally, if the problem is severe, try compositing two photos together in PhotoShop etc - best foreground + best background.

(is that chromatic aberration on the left-hand rock?)

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
errrr, because you're a bit mad??

(not sure what you mean mate, but im interested to know!)

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
simpo two said:
Hi Dave,
Nice composition (one of the hardest things to crack IMO). Main hiccup is that you've run into the problem of exposure latitude: the chip can only cope with so much contrast and one effect of this is that highlights get burnt out - eg your sky. After a while you learn to be wary for this! Setting the monitor to Highlights mode is a good start: it gives you fair warning of the problem. Dial in -EV until the flashing stops, or try using autobracket to increase your chances of getting a 'good' shot. If in doubt, err towards underexposure as you can get details back from shadows, but not from burnt highlights. Finally, if the problem is severe, try compositing two photos together in PhotoShop etc - best foreground + best background.

(is that chromatic aberration on the left-hand rock?)


Well I did fiddle with the image in PS7 to up the saturation a bit. I'm aware that the camera tends to burn out the highlights, but I wasn't sure that shot was really burnt out - maybe it is then. I did take a few shots and I was using an ND Grad to drop the contrast of the sky as it was all burning out otherwise. Thanks for the comments mate, always glad of constructive criticism.

Oh, and chromatic what?!

Don

28,377 posts

285 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Mad Dave said:
errrr, because you're a bit mad??

(not sure what you mean mate, but im interested to know!)



Stargate....



...sorry.

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Don said:

Mad Dave said:
errrr, because you're a bit mad??

(not sure what you mean mate, but im interested to know!)




Stargate....



...sorry.









Actually, whilst I was there, I heard a chap tell his young (about 10yo at a guess) daughter that it was a 'gateway to another dimension'. Im not sure she believed him.

gravymaster

1,857 posts

249 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
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I like that photo. Composition is cool!

Matt

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Heres one ive just had a play around with - used the EV compensation to up it 2 stops (how clever, BTW!) and then pasted the sky in from the original (it was burnt out at +2).

parrot of doom

23,075 posts

235 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
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You could also try putting some grad filters on the lens when you have such a prominent sky. If you're struggling for inspiration, take a look at what they do on Top Gear

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Thats exactly what I did - 0.6ND Grad IIRC.

As for Top Gear - hmm, not sure I want vibrant purple across the top right corner of all my shots

simpo two

85,578 posts

266 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Mad Dave said:
I did take a few shots and I was using an ND Grad to drop the contrast of the sky as it was all burning out otherwise....Oh, and chromatic what?!

Great - you were on the right lines but you just needed a darker ND filter to cope.

Here's my attempt at a similar thing using autpbracketing - purely experimental:
+EV (for foreground):


- EV (for sky):


Composite (not perfect but you get the idea):


Chromatic aberration is when the white light passing through the lens gets slightly split into colours. If you look at the edges of the left hand rock, it has fine coloured lines on the sides. Are they there on the original? Maybe it's an artefact from sharpening or compression - hopefully!

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Ill look into that chromatic whatsit - thanks.

I used the bracketing function on the camera a few times, but found it easier just to take spot readings and use the exposure lock to get shots metered for different areas. The only problem with this is that the exposure lock button also locks the focussing, which is a bit odd - can this be switched off?

re ND Grad - it took me 4 months to find that one, and I ended up buying it in Glasgow - I guess ill have to start searching for some more! I do have a Cokin Grey Grad filter, ill have a look, it may be a bit darker.

TIP: You may already know this, but the aperture preview button on the D70 is very useful for seeing exactly where your grad filter ends - essential for lining it up with your skyline.

simpo two

85,578 posts

266 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
Mad Dave said:
I used the bracketing function on the camera a few times, but found it easier just to take spot readings and use the exposure lock to get shots metered for different areas. The only problem with this is that the exposure lock button also locks the focussing, which is a bit odd - can this be switched off?

Yes, there are several ways to configure this - see manual! Personally I don't bother with that button; I point directly at the part I want sharp, half depress and reframe. I use EV after that if required to seperate the focus and exposure functions.
I think the D70 - and perhaps any DSLR - is a bit like PhotoShop: lots of people use it and get the results they want, but all in different ways! It's whatever works best for you.

Mad Dave

Original Poster:

7,158 posts

264 months

Wednesday 5th January 2005
quotequote all
I think maybe you're right. I too focus and reframe, but I like to take spot readings, e.g from skin etc to get the right exposure.