Recommendation for rust inhibitor paint

[Harleyboy]

My 91 Range Rover has a couple of nasty rusty bits on the n/s/f door. They are on the vertical panel where the latch is. Of course I know they need dealing with properly but can anyone recommend some stuff that will slow the rust down? They really need the bad bit cutting out and a new small piece welding in but funds going elsewhere at the moment.

Thanks

[v8250]

Chances are the rust will be slightly worse on the inside than what you can see on the outside :. both sides need treating. Bilt Hamber do a very good range of product that will help...and they work. Many classic owner use their products. The inner panels should be treated with a rust neutralizer and then coated with a wayoyl type product. Hydrate 80 is very good for rust treatment. Once covered and dried it can be painted. Be sure to wear gloves when using Hydrate 80.

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-treatments

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes

[cornershop]

http://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-rust-converter/c28125...

[Escort3500]

v8250 said:

Chances are the rust will be slightly worse on the inside than what you can see on the outside :. both sides need treating. Bilt Hamber do a very good range of product that will help...and they work. Many classic owner use their products. The inner panels should be treated with a rust neutralizer and then coated with a wayoyl type product. Hydrate 80 is very good for rust treatment. Once covered and dried it can be painted. Be sure to wear gloves when using Hydrate 80.

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-treatments

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes

+1. I've used Bilthamber for years on the recommendation of a friend who restores classic cars. It's excellent stuff and though pricier than other treatments you really do get what you pay for. Don't bother with Waxoyl, Kurust etc

[Mopar440]

Escort3500 said:

+1. I've used Bilthamber for years on the recommendation of a friend who restores classic cars. It's excellent stuff and though pricier than other treatments you really do get what you pay for. Don't bother with Waxoyl, Kurust etc

Excellent post! Can you give us some info (preferably with pics!) to demonstrate how the Bilthamber stuff is better than the others you've quoted? You've used it for years, and obviously used Waxoyl, Kurust, etc, as well. So how is the Bilthamber better?

As you say, you do get what you pay for, so I'm keen to see examples of how this has worked for you.

[Lowtimer]

Not sure what you are expecting to see. When anti corrosion treatments work properly all there is to see is some non rusty sills, door skins, arches etc, which look exactly like all the other non rusty ones.

[PositronicRay]

I like Bilt Hamber, much easier to work with than waxoil. If it's easier to work with I'm going to do a better job, so gets my vote based on that.

[Lowtimer]

The long term tests in Practical Classics also rated the Bilt Hamber products as among the best available, the last article was a year or so ago, and that was based on several years of previous testing.

[Harleyboy]

Hi.

Thanks for the suggestions. Will check out the Bilthamber stuff. Anything to try and slow down the rot!

[Escort3500]

Mopar440 said:

Escort3500 said:

+1. I've used Bilthamber for years on the recommendation of a friend who restores classic cars. It's excellent stuff and though pricier than other treatments you really do get what you pay for. Don't bother with Waxoyl, Kurust etc

Excellent post! Can you give us some info (preferably with pics!) to demonstrate how the Bilthamber stuff is better than the others you've quoted? You've used it for years, and obviously used Waxoyl, Kurust, etc, as well. So how is the Bilthamber better?

As you say, you do get what you pay for, so I'm keen to see examples of how this has worked for you.

As Lowtimer says, not much to see in pics. I've used BH on the underside of a number of my cars over the years. Like any rustproofing treatment, thorough prep is crucial (dry, flake-free metal etc; there's plenty of advice out there on how to apply it, including BH's own guidance). I usually inspect the car annually and re-apply over some parts if necessary. I've found that BH is far more durable than rival products. It's really important to inject it into all chassis rails and other hollow sections as well as the visible external areas of the underside. Good luck.

[Ahonen]

cornershop said:

http://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-rust-converter/c28125...

Absolutely. Does exactly what it should and has really impressed me. All the products from rust.co.uk seem spot on so far - they seem to win all the tests in classic magazines and unlike POR15 I haven't heard a bad word said about them. I've used their epoxy mastic paint in a lot of areas on my restoration and it has worked very well.

[Astacus]

Mopar440 said:

Excellent post! Can you give us some info (preferably with pics!) to demonstrate how the Bilthamber stuff is better than the others you've quoted? You've used it for years, and obviously used Waxoyl, Kurust, etc, as well. So how is the Bilthamber better?

As you say, you do get what you pay for, so I'm keen to see examples of how this has worked for you.

Below before and afters of my Vixen peddle box treated with Bilt Hamber DeOx C

[cornershop]

Ahonen said:

Absolutely. Does exactly what it should and has really impressed me. All the products from rust.co.uk seem spot on so far - they seem to win all the tests in classic magazines and unlike POR15 I haven't heard a bad word said about them. I've used their epoxy mastic paint in a lot of areas on my restoration and it has worked very well.

Yes indeed, i've used the BH Deox previously, and find FE123 more effective.

[DeanR32]

Am I right in thinking the hydrate 80 and the rust FE123 gear goes straight over rust? I know the difference between rust and rotten bits, but what sort of rust does it go over?

I'm starting my BMW tomorrow (finally!!). I reckon I need some of this gear!

[S3_Graham]

www.frost.co.uk have a good selection too.

I used their marine spec stuff to go over a quick patch on a sill of my old car. Was quick and easy, although had a black finish.

[PositronicRay]

DeanR32 said:

Am I right in thinking the hydrate 80 and the rust FE123 gear goes straight over rust? I know the difference between rust and rotten bits, but what sort of rust does it go over?

I'm starting my BMW tomorrow (finally!!). I reckon I need some of this gear!

I use it as a sort of 1/2 way house, slowing down and preservation rather than restoration. Useful on the undercarriage.

[Mr_B]

I think they are all pretty good these days. I was looking over my old M3 shell that's been sat for ages and which I've had for what must be 15 years now. Shortly after I first got the car and was all keen to improve the details, I replaced the rear number plate only to find a big rust patch around one of the screw holes. I rubbed it back and put on any old anti rust primer that was in Halfords back then and sprayed a square patch of red paint and then the plate covered up the whole sorry mess until which time I could afford to have some work done on it, like getting the faded bonnet painted.
Looked at it the other day and it is still exactly the same as the day I painted it, which is amazing considering it took me all of ten mins to rub it back, primer and top coat it with the aid of a hairdryer to force dry it in seconds.

[DeanR32]

How about on pitted metal, where there may still be a bit in the pits?

I'm thinking about the hardest to reach nooks. If I can't get at the surface rust to guarantee it's clean metal, would this get in there and stop it from getting worse?

[Heaveho]

I've got some surface rust to deal with on the underside of mine, will this stuff give a good result if it's brushed on and left?

[klunkT5]

POR 15's good.