Door dropsy...
Discussion
I have a case of drivers door dropsy which I need help to clear up please.
I took the door panel off last weekend to see what the hinges looked like and how they were adjustable as the leadind edge of my door is catching on the wing and scraping the paint.
I can lift the door slightly and its getting worse!
The hinges seem to be a plate with a bolted spiggot in the middle and a bolt either end which fits into the body through an oversize hole.
Am I right in thinking that adjusting the spiggot bolts in the middle force the brackets further apart or contract them closer together to create a tighter fit of door to body?
Is it that the other two bolts either side are for a slightly crude relocation of the bracket position? hence the door.
I gingerly played with the bottom one only as I was worried about doing it alone and the whole thing just dropping suddenly,though I had it supportrd on a jack,
and I think it is a bit better,but it does need moving back away from the wing.
Am I right about the adjustment of the hinges? nothing in the bible.
I took the door panel off last weekend to see what the hinges looked like and how they were adjustable as the leadind edge of my door is catching on the wing and scraping the paint.
I can lift the door slightly and its getting worse!
The hinges seem to be a plate with a bolted spiggot in the middle and a bolt either end which fits into the body through an oversize hole.
Am I right in thinking that adjusting the spiggot bolts in the middle force the brackets further apart or contract them closer together to create a tighter fit of door to body?
Is it that the other two bolts either side are for a slightly crude relocation of the bracket position? hence the door.
I gingerly played with the bottom one only as I was worried about doing it alone and the whole thing just dropping suddenly,though I had it supportrd on a jack,
and I think it is a bit better,but it does need moving back away from the wing.
Am I right about the adjustment of the hinges? nothing in the bible.
Podie said:
Wildfire has posted on this... He seems to be the current expert...
But I do need to do both my doors.
The passenger one is pretty bad now. When I did it I did the twon bolts on the side of the main one, first supporting the door, I used my leg then my brother, loosening the bolts off then raising the door before re thigtening. But beware, the one furthest away on the top is a bu&&er to get to and I wedged my hand in there well and good when doing it. i would reccoment an extender bar and a wobbly for it, also take the door trim off as it saves getting grease on the trim and makes it slightly easier to work o, rather than just going through the speaker hole.
Make sure you don't put it to high up or you won't be able to close the door, also if you do up the central bolt the door will be very stiff.
If this does not cure it, then the hinge may have come away from the door in which case I'm stumped and Lee Bee will be the man to talk to. I shall hopefully be grappling with the doors next weekend after the bonnets off.
Both hinges, top and bottom are bolted to the door with two bolts on a 100mx30mm metal plate (approx). The holes are larger than the bolts to allow for adjustment, back & forward, in & out. The center bolt on the plate goes through a nylon bush and into a nut which is fibreglassed into the car body. Not accesable without cutting holes. The nylon bush can wear, causing door drop, or the hidden nut can work loose. the latter being worse. On mine, the center bolt wore its threads off but didnt damage the nut. Replaced them with 75mm M10 s/s bolts and new bushes. Either way, its not a 10min job, skin off nuckles time. Hope this helps.
Hmmm! Thanks for that...sounds like I was of the right track with what adjustment does what.Still terrified at the prospect of undoing top and bottom hinges at the same time though!Sure I would get the door lurch down in my lap and never get the thing to fit flush again. Lots of spare hands needed.
Think I might try little by little on each to see if I can rock it back towards the door catch mechanism but as the door needs to be open to adjust, its pretty tricky to know the angle you need to move it.
As you said,..not a quick job!
Mine fits flush now and seems tight, as the paint on the leading edge is now so worn I might run a file down the leading edge and leave the hinges alone.
Sounds daft I know,but its a thought as I only need half a mm. and will probably need the door sprayed again sometime anyway.(Thanks clumsy old lady in car park!)
Thinking on... Cheers
Lots of spare hands needed. Think I might try little by little on each to see if I can rock it back towards the door catch mechanism but as the door needs to be open to adjust, its pretty tricky to know the angle you need to move it.
As you said,..not a quick job!
Mine fits flush now and seems tight, as the paint on the leading edge is now so worn I might run a file down the leading edge and leave the hinges alone.
Sounds daft I know,but its a thought as I only need half a mm. and will probably need the door sprayed again sometime anyway.(Thanks clumsy old lady in car park!)
Thinking on... Cheers
If its getting worse then it sounds like the bushes are worn. It is possible to adjust hinges while the door is shut, needs two people tho. Take off door panel & remove ally window runner. Loosen 2outside bolts top & bottom, put some cloth on door cill so when door shuts it is lifted to just above the required height. Sit in drivers seat and shut door. With a bit of arm bending & a mate on outside to adjust door position, you can then retighten hinges. The center bolt is only a pivot bolt so there is no adjustment on them. Email me with phone number if you need to know more. Good luck!
A very enlightening thread
My passenger side door is droopy, with probably 1/4" of vertical play at the lock end. When I look at the top hinge bolt through the gap between the door and body, I can see the bolt rotating with the door as it is opened and closed
Does this mean that the nut in the body has come loose, or just the bolt loose? I will investigate further when time permits, I hope it is an easy fix.
My passenger side door is droopy, with probably 1/4" of vertical play at the lock end. When I look at the top hinge bolt through the gap between the door and body, I can see the bolt rotating with the door as it is opened and closed
Does this mean that the nut in the body has come loose, or just the bolt loose? I will investigate further when time permits, I hope it is an easy fix.
Thanks TOPTON,spivvy and others.I bet loads of S owners are monitoring this thread as it seems such a common problem.
I thought it might be possible to adjust with the door closed...just, so that offers some encouragement.
I am sure that when I tried adjusting the centre bolt it tightened the door up,I reckon because it forces the two hinges apart further in the body.I wound up loosening it last time to get the best result to date.
But I do need to move the whole thing backwards if I am to stop the rubbing at the front.
See what time and who is around this weekend I hope.
I thought it might be possible to adjust with the door closed...just, so that offers some encouragement.
I am sure that when I tried adjusting the centre bolt it tightened the door up,I reckon because it forces the two hinges apart further in the body.I wound up loosening it last time to get the best result to date.
But I do need to move the whole thing backwards if I am to stop the rubbing at the front.
See what time and who is around this weekend I hope.
spivvy said:
just some pictures so you know what you are working with
>> Edited by spivvy on Thursday 6th January 20:37
My driver door has a small amount of vertical movement and rubs the sill at the rear slighlty.
LeeBee does an upgraded hinge kit but I have tried to ask him about it for several months now but haven't had replies
Sorry to ask silly questions but is the assembly shown here the part that is inside the door only?
What is mounted in the body, threaded bobbins GRP'd in is what I've been told. Mine apparently move so I guess I'll need to fibreglass them back in, anyone done this?
I'm guessing LeeBee does a kit with a plate mounting instead of bobbins??
Seems i am one of the few to attempt this bxxxxr of a job. Nice to have loose swinging doors when done though.
Peter m- The bolt should not rotate with the door,try lifting the door up and down while looking at the bolt. If it moves, then either the nut in the body is loose or the bolt threads have worn away. You can get your fingers to the top nut. Behind the the air vent,pull off flexy pipe and poke fingers up behind dash, you will feel the nut moving if it is loose when door is moved. If it doesnt,try unscrewing the center bolt. If it doesnt unscrew, then a hacksaw blade between door and body to cut bolt is the only other way. Almost impossible not to mark the paint on the door. As mentioned before, the center bolt is just the pivot point. It wont take up any sag but might lift the door to center it.
On the picture, the brass hex nut is glassed into bodywork top and bottom. Two short bolts fix the bracket inside the door, the center bolt goes through the nylon bush(replace these)and into the hex nut to make pivot point.
Peter m- The bolt should not rotate with the door,try lifting the door up and down while looking at the bolt. If it moves, then either the nut in the body is loose or the bolt threads have worn away. You can get your fingers to the top nut. Behind the the air vent,pull off flexy pipe and poke fingers up behind dash, you will feel the nut moving if it is loose when door is moved. If it doesnt,try unscrewing the center bolt. If it doesnt unscrew, then a hacksaw blade between door and body to cut bolt is the only other way. Almost impossible not to mark the paint on the door. As mentioned before, the center bolt is just the pivot point. It wont take up any sag but might lift the door to center it.
On the picture, the brass hex nut is glassed into bodywork top and bottom. Two short bolts fix the bracket inside the door, the center bolt goes through the nylon bush(replace these)and into the hex nut to make pivot point.
Hi Kentish,
I can't say.Certainly the only bits I can see on mine are the top of the Nylon gater and bolts sticking out above the plate,not the brass rings below that are shown in the picture.Assume they are inside the GRP, though, if they are all that is, I just don't know.
I would be supprised if your brackets had come free inside the GRP,more likely you need some fine tuning adjustment like the rest of us...Oh and the time and inclination to move it up the list of jobs of course!
I am changing my bulkhead steering bearing this weekend if it arrives.
An idea... As the hinge job takes several hands,why dont we do both together one weekend soon and have a couple of pints after to celebrate?
I can't say.Certainly the only bits I can see on mine are the top of the Nylon gater and bolts sticking out above the plate,not the brass rings below that are shown in the picture.Assume they are inside the GRP, though, if they are all that is, I just don't know.
I would be supprised if your brackets had come free inside the GRP,more likely you need some fine tuning adjustment like the rest of us...Oh and the time and inclination to move it up the list of jobs of course!
I am changing my bulkhead steering bearing this weekend if it arrives.
An idea... As the hinge job takes several hands,why dont we do both together one weekend soon and have a couple of pints after to celebrate?
Hi Tim,
That's a good idea and perhaps we should research the specification and part numbers of the new bolts and the nylon bushes and get them ordered/delivered to have them in our eager little hands first, so that we know that we have all the parts we should need?
Do you fancy a run out to Canterbury area (it's just my leaking tank prevents me going too far until I arrive at that job on my list)?
My tool box is fairly well kitted out but if there's anything else we need there are a few local tool suppliers not far from me.
There's also a very good rural pub just across the road and you'd be very welcome to have lunch and dinner with us too, or stay for the night which = more
>> Edited by KentishS2 on Friday 7th January 14:25
That's a good idea and perhaps we should research the specification and part numbers of the new bolts and the nylon bushes and get them ordered/delivered to have them in our eager little hands first, so that we know that we have all the parts we should need?
Do you fancy a run out to Canterbury area (it's just my leaking tank prevents me going too far until I arrive at that job on my list)?
My tool box is fairly well kitted out but if there's anything else we need there are a few local tool suppliers not far from me.
There's also a very good rural pub just across the road and you'd be very welcome to have lunch and dinner with us too, or stay for the night which = more
>> Edited by KentishS2 on Friday 7th January 14:25
Cheers Kentish..thats a mighty hospitable offer.
I reckon we would be best off at either garage.don't mind which.
I don't know what yours is like but mine is a complete mess but full of bits that come up trumps when you most need one.(Having just moved expect yours is pristine)Are you in Canterbury now or still on the coast?
It seems practical to do them both as once you get familiar with one you know what does what and the next takes half the time!...usually!!!
I promise not to wimper 'can I let go yet' every 30 seconds! (No pun intended)
Check what TOPTON suggests on yours to be happy the hinges are secure.Mine seem OK and all the bolts serviceable.
Give you a shout next week on this one and, fear not,
a sandwich is all I ever eat...but I can drink coffee!!!
I reckon we would be best off at either garage.don't mind which.
I don't know what yours is like but mine is a complete mess but full of bits that come up trumps when you most need one.(Having just moved expect yours is pristine)Are you in Canterbury now or still on the coast?
It seems practical to do them both as once you get familiar with one you know what does what and the next takes half the time!...usually!!!
I promise not to wimper 'can I let go yet' every 30 seconds! (No pun intended)
Check what TOPTON suggests on yours to be happy the hinges are secure.Mine seem OK and all the bolts serviceable.
Give you a shout next week on this one and, fear not,
a sandwich is all I ever eat...but I can drink coffee!!!
F908 TIM said:
Cheers Kentish..thats a mighty hospitable offer.
I reckon we would be best off at either garage.don't mind which.
I don't know what yours is like but mine is a complete mess but full of bits that come up trumps when you most need one.(Having just moved expect yours is pristine)Are you in Canterbury now or still on the coast?
It seems practical to do them both as once you get familiar with one you know what does what and the next takes half the time!...usually!!!
I promise not to wimper 'can I let go yet' every 30 seconds! (No pun intended)
Check what TOPTON suggests on yours to be happy the hinges are secure.Mine seem OK and all the bolts serviceable.
Give you a shout next week on this one and, fear not,
a sandwich is all I ever eat...but I can drink coffee!!!
Hi Tim,
A sandwich and loads of coffee is no problem!
I think the hinges themselves are OK but not completely certain as I have noticed that the driver door opens a fair bit wider than the passenger side for some reason??
LeeBee has responded on this thread, so I'll try and see what improvement the kit he sells offers over fitting a standard hinge.
I'll also need to check my brass bobbins in the body to ensure they are secure. To be honest I asked the garage to look at it ages ago whilst in for MOT and they said the fittings in the body were turning. I think the LeeBee kit may resolve this general problem.
I'll have to take a look during this coming weekend and give you a shout once I have the parts I need.
Cheers,
Kevin
Hi Kevin Changed my bulkhead steering bearing at the weekend which is a bit of a job if your arms are less than 9 feet long,and changed back to the old Ford TP to test again,though on mine there dosen't seem much difference so far from the Cerbie one.
My drivers door has always opened further than on the passenger side and I am not convinced that the bobbins as shown in this threads pictures are not meant to revolve.Certainly I would not expect them to look like they do if they were meant to be fixed in the body.
I noticed at the weekend my drivers side top bolt which you can just see with the door open does turn with the door but everything seems solid and as it should be...except the door is too far forward.
I will check the passenger side operation and let you know.
Cheers for now, Tim.
Hi Tim, I stripped the door down on the driver side to see what it all looked like and to also see whether there were any broken bits as I could hear something metallic rattling each time I close the door, this turned out to be a rusty old spanner!
I sprayed everything in good old WD40 and then had a bit of a play to see whether the brass threaded bobbins move as the garage had told me and I was pleased to see that none of them do.
So, I loosened the bottom outer bolts on the bottom hinge but found that I couldn't get to the top ones without removing the alloy driver side window frame, so with that out of the way I loosened the 2 outer bolts of the top hinge. Now, in theory if you screw the bottom hinge centre bolt in (tighten up) it should raise the door a little and the top centre bolt requires undoing by the same amount, this seemed to work and made the door open and close a lot better but it still wasn't perfect and I didn't want to wind the bolts in and out too much. I then re-tightened the outer bolts of both hinges.
I re-checked the door alignment and it was better but still fouled the door sill a little. The free movement was still present in the door (up and down ) indicating that the nylon bush is probably a bit worn. To be honest there really can't be much wear as the door has such a minute amount of movement. So, I decided to adjust the door a little and reshaped the bottom rear edge and also down the entire rear edge and I have a perfect shut line now and the door doesn't rub, a new hinge bush will have to be fitted at some point but it's now pretty good.
I took this opportunity to also re-sheet the inside of the door as I have been finding it very draughty. Also having removed and re-fitted the window it now fits a lot better and doesn't whistle when travelling at speed. I also sprayed all of the window runners with oil and the window raises and lowers at the same speed whereas before it was very slow to close.
With everything back in place I primed the door and then gave it a coat of black gloss for the time being (the car is blue) but this will keep water from penetrating the GRP where it was sanded. So, next weekend I'll probably be spraying it the correct colour again!
>> Edited by KentishS2 on Sunday 16th January 17:49
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