Battery wired in reverse fuses blow continuously
Discussion
Hoping someone can help me!
Monumental tit that I am, I wired up a new battery in reverse for a few seconds earlier and now 2 20amp fuses blow any time I try to replace them and the car doesn't fire (will crank) radio also dead.
Engine is 2ltr tfsi and the 2 fuses lead to the ecu....anyone got any ideas?
Monumental tit that I am, I wired up a new battery in reverse for a few seconds earlier and now 2 20amp fuses blow any time I try to replace them and the car doesn't fire (will crank) radio also dead.
Engine is 2ltr tfsi and the 2 fuses lead to the ecu....anyone got any ideas?
Forgive me for asking the obvious but I take it you have now correctly wired the battery? If this is the case I strongly suspect you may have fried the ECU when connecting incorrectly. Check the relays to the ECU also as you may have overheated one but I would thenk the fault lies with the ECU?
Absolutely, the battery is now wired correctly. I think after a couple of sparjs as the cable touched it was then connected for around 4-6 seconds...what an idiot!!
There are 2 20a fuses that blow whenever i fit a new one (car turned off) but other than radio fail and car not actually firing everything else seems to be working fine.
Any way to test the ecu?
There are 2 20a fuses that blow whenever i fit a new one (car turned off) but other than radio fail and car not actually firing everything else seems to be working fine.
Any way to test the ecu?
I would have thought almost any of the electronic systems will be fried , they don't like DC up them the wrong way corporal Jones !
Unless the supply point has a Bridge rectifier stuck on the supply point to protect against numpties, but I suppose Mr Audi would see this as a way of making lots of wonga
I mean the alternator has a nice rectifier to sort out the polarity in the first instance and the battery big + - terminals so whys put protection and add complexity , just make money when some one gets it's wrong !
Unless the supply point has a Bridge rectifier stuck on the supply point to protect against numpties, but I suppose Mr Audi would see this as a way of making lots of wonga
I mean the alternator has a nice rectifier to sort out the polarity in the first instance and the battery big + - terminals so whys put protection and add complexity , just make money when some one gets it's wrong !
Remove the blown fuses
Unplug the ECU completely.
Refit fuses
PRAY they still blow. If they DON'T blow again fault is in ECU (i.e they only blow when ECU is connected)
If they do blow then fault is elsewhere in wiring.
Disconnect everything
Try and disconnet the loom at every multiplug point
basic continuity test on multimeter
one end to eart point
touch each wire one at a time until you get continuity to body/earth
faults in that wire
Unplug the ECU completely.
Refit fuses
PRAY they still blow. If they DON'T blow again fault is in ECU (i.e they only blow when ECU is connected)
If they do blow then fault is elsewhere in wiring.
Disconnect everything
Try and disconnet the loom at every multiplug point
basic continuity test on multimeter
one end to eart point
touch each wire one at a time until you get continuity to body/earth
faults in that wire
Rich_W said:
Remove the blown fuses
Unplug the ECU completely.
Refit fuses
PRAY they still blow. If they DON'T blow again fault is in ECU (i.e they only blow when ECU is connected)
If they do blow then fault is elsewhere in wiring.
Disconnect everything
Try and disconnet the loom at every multiplug point
basic continuity test on multimeter
one end to eart point
touch each wire one at a time until you get continuity to body/earth
faults in that wire
^ThisUnplug the ECU completely.
Refit fuses
PRAY they still blow. If they DON'T blow again fault is in ECU (i.e they only blow when ECU is connected)
If they do blow then fault is elsewhere in wiring.
Disconnect everything
Try and disconnet the loom at every multiplug point
basic continuity test on multimeter
one end to eart point
touch each wire one at a time until you get continuity to body/earth
faults in that wire
Right,
I've found another bank of fuses in the front of the car and 3 of those had also blown (3-7.5a) so I've replaced them and now the radio works!
I unplugged the ECU and fitted the 2 20a fuses and they didn't blow. When I connect the smaller ECU plug (left one) all fine, when I connect the large right one, both blow. So is that 100% confirmed that the ECU is shagged before I get an auto electrician out and buy a new ECU?
I've found another bank of fuses in the front of the car and 3 of those had also blown (3-7.5a) so I've replaced them and now the radio works!
I unplugged the ECU and fitted the 2 20a fuses and they didn't blow. When I connect the smaller ECU plug (left one) all fine, when I connect the large right one, both blow. So is that 100% confirmed that the ECU is shagged before I get an auto electrician out and buy a new ECU?
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