Spark Plug Questions
Discussion
Good morning all,
I have purchased a CR6HSA, which is correct for the vehicle I'm using it in. I, however need a tool to fit it (my tool supplies are severely depleted through various lendings and house moves). It has a thread of 10mm and a hex of 16mm (I think), what size tool do I need to fit it? I had thought of 16mm however these seem huge compared to it (it's only a little plug).
Any help appreciated as I'm hoping to get this done today!
Also, on a side note, is .1 mm spark plug gap likely to make a noticeable difference?
I have purchased a CR6HSA, which is correct for the vehicle I'm using it in. I, however need a tool to fit it (my tool supplies are severely depleted through various lendings and house moves). It has a thread of 10mm and a hex of 16mm (I think), what size tool do I need to fit it? I had thought of 16mm however these seem huge compared to it (it's only a little plug).
Any help appreciated as I'm hoping to get this done today!
Also, on a side note, is .1 mm spark plug gap likely to make a noticeable difference?
I use spark plug sockets. What else would you use? Long socket usually with a rubber piece to help grip the plug inside it while you wangle it into the engine.
0.1mm difference from the recommended plug gap? That probably won't matter too much but if you can measure it why not set it properly? What is the recommended for the car? (if you mean 0.1mm overall then yes it will make a difference, it'll run badly or not at all)
0.1mm difference from the recommended plug gap? That probably won't matter too much but if you can measure it why not set it properly? What is the recommended for the car? (if you mean 0.1mm overall then yes it will make a difference, it'll run badly or not at all)
Edited by Oldandslow on Tuesday 6th January 11:21
Hi and thanks for the reply
I'm going off the factory for the plug (.7mm) and the recommended for the vehicle (.6mm), however it has been suggested that factory may not be accurate, so I will invest in a tool.
I am aware that I need a spark plug tool, I am just unsure on size, either 10mm or 16mm going off the number
I'm going off the factory for the plug (.7mm) and the recommended for the vehicle (.6mm), however it has been suggested that factory may not be accurate, so I will invest in a tool.
I am aware that I need a spark plug tool, I am just unsure on size, either 10mm or 16mm going off the number
The plugs are usually preset to a typical gap but as you say not always accurate and might have been knocked in transit. If the car's own manual says 0.6mm then I'd go for 0.6mm. A set of feeler guages and you can set it with confidence.
If in doubt about the socket take a plug to your local Halfords or motor factors and ask to try sockets for size.
If in doubt about the socket take a plug to your local Halfords or motor factors and ask to try sockets for size.
steveo3002 said:
10mm spanner /tool is tiny
A 10mm socket is tiny - maybe right for a glowplug, but not a spark plug. But...Spark plug sockets seem to be sized weirdly and measure the thread, or the length of a flat, or something - can't remember which. So, it might well be that you want a 10mm spark plug socket which will be a lot bigger than a 10mm "normal" socket. And they often also quote an imperial size.
steveo3002 said:
why not take the plug into a spares shop and ask for a socket that fits
Do this if you can!gixxer said:
Yes, but it also says "thread size 10mm". And, annoyingly, spark plug sockets are often labelled by thread size not hex size, unlike pretty much anything else since Whitworth threads.A tip for fitting new plugs, particularly if the tube they go down through to the cylinder head is quite deep;
Get a short length (8" or so) of roughly 4mm internal diameter silicone hose, push it over the top of the plug, lower the plug down into its seat and wind it in a few turns with the silicone hose, then finish off with the socket and wrench.
Takes away the risk of 'dropping' the plug down the hole and damaging it.
Get a short length (8" or so) of roughly 4mm internal diameter silicone hose, push it over the top of the plug, lower the plug down into its seat and wind it in a few turns with the silicone hose, then finish off with the socket and wrench.
Takes away the risk of 'dropping' the plug down the hole and damaging it.
Martin350 said:
Get a short length (8" or so) of roughly 4mm internal diameter silicone hose, push it over the top of the plug, lower the plug down into its seat and wind it in a few turns with the silicone hose, then finish off with the socket and wrench.
Takes away the risk of 'dropping' the plug down the hole and damaging it.
This also makes it a LOT more obvious if it's cross-threaded rather going in cleanly. You can't get enough torque to damage the thread with the hose, so it's obvious something is wrong. And, if it is cross-threading, you can wobble the hose as you try again until it threads cleanly.Takes away the risk of 'dropping' the plug down the hole and damaging it.
I've read this advice about using a length of hose to feel spark plugs into their threads many times, presumably because it's mentioned in Haynes manuals, but I've never seen any need.
I simply get the plug in my rubber-lined plug socket, lower it into place with an extension bar and then use only the bar to rotate it backwards until it drops back onto the thread. Then I gently wind it in the correct way, and only when I can't turn it any further with the bar alone, whack the torque wrench onto the bar and finish it off.
You can feel the threads in great detail and don't need to arse about with bits of hose, doesn't make the process any longer.
I simply get the plug in my rubber-lined plug socket, lower it into place with an extension bar and then use only the bar to rotate it backwards until it drops back onto the thread. Then I gently wind it in the correct way, and only when I can't turn it any further with the bar alone, whack the torque wrench onto the bar and finish it off.
You can feel the threads in great detail and don't need to arse about with bits of hose, doesn't make the process any longer.
McSam said:
I've read this advice about using a length of hose to feel spark plugs into their threads many times, presumably because it's mentioned in Haynes manuals, but I've never seen any need.
I simply get the plug in my rubber-lined plug socket, lower it into place with an extension bar and then use only the bar to rotate it backwards until it drops back onto the thread. Then I gently wind it in the correct way, and only when I can't turn it any further with the bar alone, whack the torque wrench onto the bar and finish it off.
You can feel the threads in great detail and don't need to arse about with bits of hose, doesn't make the process any longer.
I've found it useful if I've had a plug which wants to cross-thread. Sometimes there's almost no clearance between the socket and the deep tube it's down, giving no space to wobble or to try to get a different angle. The hose makes that easier. Plus with one car there was so little clearance that one spark plug socket didn't fit, and the other I've got only just fitted. The socket rubbing on the cylinder head made it really hard to feel the thread, and the hose worked really well. I'd never felt the need to use it before, but it worked well when I did!I simply get the plug in my rubber-lined plug socket, lower it into place with an extension bar and then use only the bar to rotate it backwards until it drops back onto the thread. Then I gently wind it in the correct way, and only when I can't turn it any further with the bar alone, whack the torque wrench onto the bar and finish it off.
You can feel the threads in great detail and don't need to arse about with bits of hose, doesn't make the process any longer.
Not all spark plug sockets (most of mine anyway) have particularly good 'grippy bits' to hold the spark plug in as you lower it into the hole, that's mostly why I use the hose.
I could just get decent sockets I suppose!
But as AJB said, for the extra few seconds it takes, I also like to 'feel' the thread through my fingers and the hose before committing with the ratchet and socket, just in case there's a problem.
I could just get decent sockets I suppose!
But as AJB said, for the extra few seconds it takes, I also like to 'feel' the thread through my fingers and the hose before committing with the ratchet and socket, just in case there's a problem.
McSam said:
I've read this advice about using a length of hose to feel spark plugs into their threads many times, presumably because it's mentioned in Haynes manuals, but I've never seen any need.
I simply get the plug in my rubber-lined plug socket, lower it into place with an extension bar and then use only the bar to rotate it backwards until it drops back onto the thread. Then I gently wind it in the correct way, and only when I can't turn it any further with the bar alone, whack the torque wrench onto the bar and finish it off.
You can feel the threads in great detail and don't need to arse about with bits of hose, doesn't make the process any longer.
Yup this is me also.I simply get the plug in my rubber-lined plug socket, lower it into place with an extension bar and then use only the bar to rotate it backwards until it drops back onto the thread. Then I gently wind it in the correct way, and only when I can't turn it any further with the bar alone, whack the torque wrench onto the bar and finish it off.
You can feel the threads in great detail and don't need to arse about with bits of hose, doesn't make the process any longer.
gixxer said:
I found that too, in fact mentioned it in my first post.AJB said:
This is an example showing that a "10mm spark plug socket" is actually a 16mm socket... Goodness knows why they have to measure them differently - it's confused me in the past.
AJB has it spot on, such a weird system, as it turns out I took it to a motorfactor and he helped me find the right one!Cheers all!
AJB said:
I've found it useful if I've had a plug which wants to cross-thread. Sometimes there's almost no clearance between the socket and the deep tube it's down, giving no space to wobble or to try to get a different angle. The hose makes that easier. Plus with one car there was so little clearance that one spark plug socket didn't fit, and the other I've got only just fitted. The socket rubbing on the cylinder head made it really hard to feel the thread, and the hose worked really well. I'd never felt the need to use it before, but it worked well when I did!
Ah, in this case I can see the use. I guess your hose would be narrower than the plug's hex faces so would always fit. It's quite a long reach down on my cars but I've never had one that's too tight to get a socket in cleanly!As above Martin, I do feel the threads by winding them in gently by hand, just by using the bar and turning it myself before putting tools on it
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