Discussion
Went to take the cerb out before Christmas. Fired it up and drove it out the garage. Left it for a few minutes to warm up. Went to drive off and I couldn't get it in gear?
Anyway I just bled the clutch fluid and still no joy getting it into gear.
It tries to creep forward slightly when attempting to select 1st gear.
Looks like slave or clutch may need replacing.
Having said that it's the first major bill I've had since buying the car.
Anyway I just bled the clutch fluid and still no joy getting it into gear.
It tries to creep forward slightly when attempting to select 1st gear.
Looks like slave or clutch may need replacing.
Having said that it's the first major bill I've had since buying the car.
Assuming you are paying someone else then I would strongly recommend replacing both the Clutch Pack and Slave. The Slave is most likely what has failed, and if that is the case I highly recommend fitting an RP Slave in it's place.
You won't see much change from £2k, but most of that is parts (£950 clutch, £350 slave). However you will probably be amazed at the new pedal feel which will probably be much lighter.
If you only replace the Slave then the chances are that the Clutch itself will fail shortly afterwards - been there done that.
If you want to use the car before then, you probably only need to bleed the clutch, depending on the severity of the leak you could get anything from an hour to a months worth of use before you give up. You only need to open the bonnet, you don't have to get underneath or anything like that.
There is a very small possibility that the Slave Master has failed, but if that is the case then you can go out an celebrate.
You won't see much change from £2k, but most of that is parts (£950 clutch, £350 slave). However you will probably be amazed at the new pedal feel which will probably be much lighter.
If you only replace the Slave then the chances are that the Clutch itself will fail shortly afterwards - been there done that.
If you want to use the car before then, you probably only need to bleed the clutch, depending on the severity of the leak you could get anything from an hour to a months worth of use before you give up. You only need to open the bonnet, you don't have to get underneath or anything like that.
There is a very small possibility that the Slave Master has failed, but if that is the case then you can go out an celebrate.
scotty_d said:
2k for a clutch and slave change out wowsers!!!
I know parts are close to a 1k, but it is a easy job to do, I would rather do any Tvr clutch over any modern FWD car.
I'm sure it's not too bad compared with FWD stuff (who cares anyway?) but it is a bI know parts are close to a 1k, but it is a easy job to do, I would rather do any Tvr clutch over any modern FWD car.
h compared with my other car - 928. I can do a clutch in three hours, and I am dead slow. It is a work of art, you don't have to separate anything, just remove an access panel, slide back a coupling, undo a few bolts and the whole clutch pack comes out!ukkid35 said:
I'm sure it's not too bad compared with FWD stuff (who cares anyway?) but it is a bh compared with my other car - 928. I can do a clutch in three hours, and I am dead slow. It is a work of art, you don't have to separate anything, just remove an access panel, slide back a coupling, undo a few bolts and the whole clutch pack comes out!
Tvrs are not bad with the correct tools. A ramp and transmission jack make it easy, but its only a few hours to do the cerbs/Tuscan/chim, bit of a pain taking the gear box out but lucky the t5 is a small box. I just hate working on any modern car, I can't bring my self to work on our daily drivers but the Tvr is easy nuts and bolts a mechanics dream in comparison to any euro box h compared with my other car - 928. I can do a clutch in three hours, and I am dead slow. It is a work of art, you don't have to separate anything, just remove an access panel, slide back a coupling, undo a few bolts and the whole clutch pack comes out!
scotty_d said:
Tvrs are not bad with the correct tools. A ramp and transmission jack make it easy, but its only a few hours to do the cerbs/Tuscan/chim,
You probably leave the exhaust manifolds in place. I'm not willing to do that, I'm sure the stress imposed (especially on the 4.5 manifolds) contributes to their failure rate. And when a shop does that, and the manifolds crack shortly after, they will obviously deny everything!I bled the clutch today (twice just incase) and no joy on selecting a gear.
Will definitely get the clutch and the slave cylinder replaced at the same time regardless of which one failed.
Does anyone have a recommendation of which make of clutch to use and which slave cylinder to use?
Will definitely get the clutch and the slave cylinder replaced at the same time regardless of which one failed.
Does anyone have a recommendation of which make of clutch to use and which slave cylinder to use?
I would recommend the following:-
Bleed the clutch with at least 1½ ltrs fresh oil.
Place some absorbent, white paper in the footwell, under the master
AND under the bellhousing.
Run the engine up to temp, selecting all gears (including reverse).
Allow to cool then repeat.
Check the paper towels to see if and where the leak is from.
If it's under the bellhousing then it is likely to be the slave.
If it's in the footwell then it's likely to be the master.
If it's the master then I would order a new set of seals from these guys.
If it's the slave then I would order an RP Slave. I've got one and it is magnificent (cue disaster
)
If no leak and it is still difficult to engage gear then it is likely that at least one finger has gone in the Clutch and you will require a new Pack
So that'll range from £20 to £750 plus £22 in Tea bags.
HTH
p.s. On rebuild take very special care to set the pedal/master pushrod distance to require the maximum pedal movement to just disengage the unit.
Bleed the clutch with at least 1½ ltrs fresh oil.
Place some absorbent, white paper in the footwell, under the master
AND under the bellhousing.
Run the engine up to temp, selecting all gears (including reverse).
Allow to cool then repeat.
Check the paper towels to see if and where the leak is from.
If it's under the bellhousing then it is likely to be the slave.
If it's in the footwell then it's likely to be the master.
If it's the master then I would order a new set of seals from these guys.
If it's the slave then I would order an RP Slave. I've got one and it is magnificent (cue disaster
)If no leak and it is still difficult to engage gear then it is likely that at least one finger has gone in the Clutch and you will require a new Pack
So that'll range from £20 to £750 plus £22 in Tea bags.
HTH
p.s. On rebuild take very special care to set the pedal/master pushrod distance to require the maximum pedal movement to just disengage the unit.
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 11th January 20:01
Mr Cerbera said:
Run the engine up to temp, selecting all gears (including reverse).
Yes, but no.The only gear you need to check is reverse, but do it using the recommended fifth first then reverse method. Hot or cold is not relevant to clutch operation, only to gearbox/fluid condition.
Having said that, you could get a false positive if the pilot bearing is shot, because this will mimic clutch slave failure - but in reality, that ain't going to happen (you still have to change the pilot bearing if the clutch comes off whatever happens, that's a given, it's £2 and takes 2 mins to change).
pole said:
I could bleed it again, third time lucky and all that but don't think it's the fluid. I did check under the car and drivers footwell but both bone dry. Think it's the clutch its self.
I'm not familiar with the finger snap failure mode, hopefully others will assist. But I really don't understand how a leak free system can fail to disengage the clutch.Does the pedal have any slack at all? Can you pull the pedal up towards you?
When the finger snapped on mine it was difficult to get gears in particular reverse. It was easier to put in gear, depress clutch and then start the car, the clutch was dragging such a small amount that you could then drive it but not engage gears from stationary with the engine running. It the pedal feels positive and slightly soft/springy at the bottom of the travel could be a finger broken. It clutch pedal feels soft or doesn't return then likely to be hydraulic. Was the clutch fluid level low and pedal soft to start with? It is possible for the fluid to bypass the seal in the master cylinder returning to the reservoir without an external leak, not seen it on a tvr but other cars in the past.
Mr Cerbera said:
p.s. On rebuild take very special care to set the pedal/master pushrod distance to require the maximum pedal movement to just disengage the unit.
Hi, what's the procedure for doing so, I've often wondered... Engine running, adjust rod length until you can't select gears anymore, then adjust the other way until you can select gears again ?Thanks
Greg
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff