Corrosion Block
Discussion
With my recent fracas with the demon salt and the subsequent advice from this forum (thanks guys), I contacted the manufacturers of ACF-50 about which of their products would best suit the Seven. I was advised that Corrosion Block is more suitable for automotive application, but it's regarded as a grease and wouldn't appear to be as 'squirty' as ACF-50.
Does anyone here have experience they can share?
Does anyone here have experience they can share?
When I built my Seven I sprayed all the parts I could get to with Dinitrol 3125. It gave good even coating and has survived 17000 miles very well. However, it does mean all the alloy panels on my car are covered in brown slime! I sprayed the under floor area with a tougher Dinitrol on top of the wax, but I wasn't as impressed with that.
Subsequently, I heard about ACF50 on Blatchat and I have applied that periodically inside the engine bay. On one hand it is so runny it seems to get into crevices, on the other it must wash off a lot easier than Dinitrol. The big advantage is it looks a lot better once applied.
As far as actual protection goes, my car looks OK at 4 years old with quite a lot of wet miles, but I do avoid driving it while there is salt on the road.
Subsequently, I heard about ACF50 on Blatchat and I have applied that periodically inside the engine bay. On one hand it is so runny it seems to get into crevices, on the other it must wash off a lot easier than Dinitrol. The big advantage is it looks a lot better once applied.
As far as actual protection goes, my car looks OK at 4 years old with quite a lot of wet miles, but I do avoid driving it while there is salt on the road.
Many of these product work on a water repellent principle, so thickness of the coating is not that important. Maybe I'm a bit out of date with some of the recent products, but, personally, I use a 50/50 diluted clear Waxoyl/turps and liberally spray with a gun. Once it has dried, it is all but invisible and I just polish off any over-spray. 15 minutes once a year - job done.
I'm just getting the bits together to do some corrosion protection on my car as well. This is my first time, so I have done a bit of research on the various products.
Have just ordered some ACF-50. Was certain that I was going to go with Dinitrol 3125 but decided that I don't want sticky brown stuff everywhere. So, ACF-50 it is.. I'll just remember to re-apply it every 6 - 12 months.
Although I don't have any experience with either product, I dont think you can go far wrong with either. They're both well recommended from what I've seen.
Have just ordered some ACF-50. Was certain that I was going to go with Dinitrol 3125 but decided that I don't want sticky brown stuff everywhere. So, ACF-50 it is.. I'll just remember to re-apply it every 6 - 12 months.
Although I don't have any experience with either product, I dont think you can go far wrong with either. They're both well recommended from what I've seen.
I've just done my 2012 Supersport.
Firstly I cleared out any detrius (loads of stones between side skins and chassis rails) and then gave everything a good dose of ACF-50. Once dried I applied Dinitrol 3125 which has beeing working it's way through the side skin to chassis rivets ever since. A good sign!
Firstly I cleared out any detrius (loads of stones between side skins and chassis rails) and then gave everything a good dose of ACF-50. Once dried I applied Dinitrol 3125 which has beeing working it's way through the side skin to chassis rivets ever since. A good sign!
ghibbett said:
I've just done my 2012 Supersport.
Firstly I cleared out any detrius (loads of stones between side skins and chassis rails) and then gave everything a good dose of ACF-50. Once dried I applied Dinitrol 3125 which has beeing working it's way through the side skin to chassis rivets ever since. A good sign!
Out of interest, how did you clean out the debris from behind the lower chassis rails? I'm finding this especially difficult due to access. I bought a flexible, thin nozzle extension for my vacuum cleaner but even this was too wide (and not that flexible for that matter!). I'm thinking possibly to get the car up on stands, then from underneath use a thin paintbrush head to sweep the muck out.Firstly I cleared out any detrius (loads of stones between side skins and chassis rails) and then gave everything a good dose of ACF-50. Once dried I applied Dinitrol 3125 which has beeing working it's way through the side skin to chassis rivets ever since. A good sign!
NedK said:
Is it a daft idea to run a bead of clear silicone along the upper side of the chassis rail, to fill in a bit of the gap between the rail and panel? I'm guessing it would stop small bits of road crap finding their way in there.
It would probably do a good job of sealing moisture in if parts of it were to peel away though.downsman said:
Once there is plenty of anti corrosion coating there, the stones just sit on top of that.
A brush is the best way to clear the stoned that I've found. If you sweep them forward they will fall out of the lower wishbone mount hole
Agreed a regular inspection and sweep in this area does help keep corrosion downA brush is the best way to clear the stoned that I've found. If you sweep them forward they will fall out of the lower wishbone mount hole
mharris said:
Out of interest, how did you clean out the debris from behind the lower chassis rails? I'm finding this especially difficult due to access. I bought a flexible, thin nozzle extension for my vacuum cleaner but even this was too wide (and not that flexible for that matter!). I'm thinking possibly to get the car up on stands, then from underneath use a thin paintbrush head to sweep the muck out.
With the car on stands I used an air line to blow a lot of the rubbish out. Afterwards I picked/brushed everything else I could get, then went over it again with the air line. Repeated until happy.NedK said:
Is it a daft idea to run a bead of clear silicone along the upper side of the chassis rail, to fill in a bit of the gap between the rail and panel? I'm guessing it would stop small bits of road crap finding their way in there.
I would not advise this. Unless you can guarantee that it is 100% sealed, water will find its way in the newly created water trap and rot its way out. Also semi-sealing the area will prevent/reduce aeration which is critical to ensuring robustness against corrosion. HTH.A little suggestion for vacuuming stones and crud out of the crevices between chassis and side panels. I duck tape a length of rubber heater hose into the end of the narrowest vacuum attachment I have, and this gives a flexible tube to get into those "Hard to reach" places. Also useful for getting down behind seats and to bottom of footwells if you use a piece about 1.5 metres long
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