Rear Brakes Frozen?

[Grady]

After sitting 2 years and finally getting its new clutch, at least one side appears to have frozen (drag, smoke and boiling fluid). Question is, if a piston is not frozen, can it be pried back off the disk or is there too much resistance to test this way? I'm sure it would be better to do both sides but it sounds like such a pain I'd like to do the one that really needs it. Grady

[Grady]

I put the rear up on ramps and tried to pry back the pistons and although it didn't show to the eye I must have gotten some movement. I then jacked up each wheel in turn off its ramp and both wheels rotated freely with a light drag. Normal I think.

Parking brake worked on and then released OK. I worked on them at some point.

Then I pressed the brakes and released. The PS turned as before. But the driver's side was noticeably stiffer (brake dragging). I played with it a couple of times and after a few rotations it loosen up (easier to turn the wheel) although not as easy as the other side.

Any chance I could dodge a bullet and can work the pistons loose, at least for a while? Thanks Grady

[mrzigazaga]

You might of been lucky and the piston was stuck by surface rust and no pitting has occurred ..Might be advisable to change the fluid at least...They should be relatively cheap to refurbish...Obviously not sure about that side of the pond...

But its something i would think about..There should never be any compromise's when it comes to safety..Ziga

[njhucker]

I would recommend changing the pistons for stainless ones. You do not have to take the calipers off. You can unbolt the drive shaft, then split the calipers ( there are no internal fluid ways, as it has an external pipe), remove the discs, and they are then easy to do. If the rear pads stick on, they can become overheated, and you can loose your brakes completely. I know, I have had it happen to me on a motorway, and it is scary.

[bobs280i]

Hello Grady I replaced both rotors and the rear calipers from napa 'not too expenses I think $240 ? Its been a few years now ...but took me all day laying on my back on my drive way ..

[Number 7]

Sounds like you were trying to move the pistons with the pads still fitted? (or did I misunderstand?). Its not unknown for the pads themselves to become stuck in the caliper through a combination road dirt, brake dust and the relatively small force being applied to the rear brakes anyway. Definitely worth removing the pads, cleaning the caliper out with brake spray, applying some copper grease to the sliding edges of the pads (and a little to the backing plate) and ensuring that the pads slide easily by hand in the caliper.

[jeff m2]

Measure the disc thickness, if too worn the pistons may have moved past intended travel.

[adam quantrill]

If it's the pads then get the pins out too, and clean them up so they are smooth and round, and dig all the crud out where they slide to and fro, that usually gets things moving.

I always keep old pad metal backings so I can stick them back in as something to lever against.

[Wedg1e]

jeff m2 said:

Measure the disc thickness, if too worn the pistons may have moved past intended travel.

I'd like to see anyone wear out a set of these rear discs; last year I renewed those that had been on my car since I bought it in 2000 and with a slight skim on the lathe to take off the high spots and raggy edges, the old discs were still within their wear limits!

[Grady]

Hope to pull at least the offending caliper off tomorrow and check the status. More to come. Grady