Which Chimaera to Buy? CAT D 500 or a 400?
Discussion
Evening all.
I've been looking at Chimaeras and have seen a few different ones. I have looked at a '98 4.0L car in great condition and a '99 5L car but which is a Cat D car with the pair of them being very similar money. the Cat D is a better colour but that's it. What you let the Cat D status put you off? do you think it would affect the long term value much? or will the fact its a 5.0L mean that it'll always be worth about the same money as the 4.0L car?
Cheers.
I've been looking at Chimaeras and have seen a few different ones. I have looked at a '98 4.0L car in great condition and a '99 5L car but which is a Cat D car with the pair of them being very similar money. the Cat D is a better colour but that's it. What you let the Cat D status put you off? do you think it would affect the long term value much? or will the fact its a 5.0L mean that it'll always be worth about the same money as the 4.0L car?
Cheers.
I think the older a car gets, the less any accident history matters and the condition 'now' is most important.
Nobody seems all that concerned if an old MG, E-type or Austin Healey had an accident in the past. It very likely has! But insurance categories weren't so prevalent in the pre-database era so most people would never know.
As long as it has been repaired properly, it will be OK, but it will still have the stigma. Keep it for another 10 yrs (more maybe?) and it probably won't matter.
Nobody seems all that concerned if an old MG, E-type or Austin Healey had an accident in the past. It very likely has! But insurance categories weren't so prevalent in the pre-database era so most people would never know.
As long as it has been repaired properly, it will be OK, but it will still have the stigma. Keep it for another 10 yrs (more maybe?) and it probably won't matter.
If, like me, you are keeping the car for ever, buy the car that floats your boat, ie fits your requirements best.
If you are going to sell quite soon, try to make sure you can document the accident damage and how it was repaired.
Suit the car to what you plan to do with it - the 4 litre is cheaper to run and has more than enough power far a nice summer Sunday car. If the track appeals, consider the 5 litre.
If you are going to sell quite soon, try to make sure you can document the accident damage and how it was repaired.
Suit the car to what you plan to do with it - the 4 litre is cheaper to run and has more than enough power far a nice summer Sunday car. If the track appeals, consider the 5 litre.
Many thanks for the comments.
However, how would I know if it's a full fat 500? All I know at the moment is that itis a 500; it is the original engine, I know that. Both cars have had outriggers done in recent years, they are in very similar condition with one needs a little cosmetic work, but once this is done they're basically the same price. The only concern I have at the moment is I've found threads on here saying the 500 is more of a risky proposition due to crank failures and that fact it's a bit more unpredictable and tail happy.
However, how would I know if it's a full fat 500? All I know at the moment is that itis a 500; it is the original engine, I know that. Both cars have had outriggers done in recent years, they are in very similar condition with one needs a little cosmetic work, but once this is done they're basically the same price. The only concern I have at the moment is I've found threads on here saying the 500 is more of a risky proposition due to crank failures and that fact it's a bit more unpredictable and tail happy.
SebringMan said:
Many thanks for the comments.
However, how would I know if it's a full fat 500? All I know at the moment is that itis a 500; it is the original engine, I know that. Both cars have had outriggers done in recent years, they are in very similar condition with one needs a little cosmetic work, but once this is done they're basically the same price. The only concern I have at the moment is I've found threads on here saying the 500 is more of a risky proposition due to crank failures and that fact it's a bit more unpredictable and tail happy.
They are all tail happy if provoked. I love my 400 but can't help wishing I had a few more horses. The first one I drove was a 500, it was raining and I was scared sHowever, how would I know if it's a full fat 500? All I know at the moment is that itis a 500; it is the original engine, I know that. Both cars have had outriggers done in recent years, they are in very similar condition with one needs a little cosmetic work, but once this is done they're basically the same price. The only concern I have at the moment is I've found threads on here saying the 500 is more of a risky proposition due to crank failures and that fact it's a bit more unpredictable and tail happy.
tless. In many ways I wish I had tried it after a few drives in a 400 so I could have compared it properly. Drive as many as you can and it won't take long till you know which car is the one. I did convert my 400 to a V8D 500...as OleVix says.....as i wanted to have more power for track days. If you have any wish to do track days consider the 500.
But I do know someone who had the crank break on his 500 and ended up selling the car on as parts.The V8D 500 engine I have is internally balanced and cross bolted, so is a different beast from the factory offering.
If you are just going to Sunday drive, the 400 may be all you need. You really need to drive them. You have just missed the February TVRCC Meriden meeting, it is on the 3rd Sunday of the month. But there must be plenty of Warwickshire 400 and 500 owners around who could take you out in theirs for a comparison.
All Chimaeras can have you off the road backwards in the wet if you have an inappropriate right foot. They need treating with common sense in damp conditions
But I do know someone who had the crank break on his 500 and ended up selling the car on as parts.The V8D 500 engine I have is internally balanced and cross bolted, so is a different beast from the factory offering.
If you are just going to Sunday drive, the 400 may be all you need. You really need to drive them. You have just missed the February TVRCC Meriden meeting, it is on the 3rd Sunday of the month. But there must be plenty of Warwickshire 400 and 500 owners around who could take you out in theirs for a comparison.
All Chimaeras can have you off the road backwards in the wet if you have an inappropriate right foot. They need treating with common sense in damp conditions
SebringMan said:
Evening all.
I've been looking at Chimaeras and have seen a few different ones. I have looked at a '98 4.0L car in great condition and a '99 5L car but which is a Cat D car with the pair of them being very similar money. the Cat D is a better colour but that's it. What you let the Cat D status put you off? do you think it would affect the long term value much? or will the fact its a 5.0L mean that it'll always be worth about the same money as the 4.0L car?
Cheers.
The cat D status would not put me off, but that does not apply to everyone.I've been looking at Chimaeras and have seen a few different ones. I have looked at a '98 4.0L car in great condition and a '99 5L car but which is a Cat D car with the pair of them being very similar money. the Cat D is a better colour but that's it. What you let the Cat D status put you off? do you think it would affect the long term value much? or will the fact its a 5.0L mean that it'll always be worth about the same money as the 4.0L car?
Cheers.
If the car is a keeper, then either of them. If you are worried about selling in the future, the cat D will always be a problem to some people and the price will always reflect this.
If you are buying to enjoy, and you want it as an investment, then go for the 4.0 ltr,the only reasoning, because it is not on an insurance loss register.
I purchased an S3 on a cat D a few years back that needed repair. I did all the repairs and had 2 years of great motoring, only reason I sold was I wanted a V8 and the S3 was a V6.
Vehicles are often cat D written off for the smallest amount of damage because of the overall cost to the insurers of the claim. If a part will take 2 weeks to source, for example, 2 weeks car hire (if the claimant has that cover) could be £1000 +. It's where a lot of the money goes. Write it off quick to reduce overall costs.
I know someone who had a courtesy motorbike after he was knocked off. He never rode it, sat in his garage at £100 per day to the insurance company of the driver at fault. £3000! A scam really. So, unless it's really valuable, the slightest bodywork damage can result in a cat D assessment.
Any chassis damage would, IMHO, be cat C almost straight away. Repairable if done properly but uneconomic.
I know someone who had a courtesy motorbike after he was knocked off. He never rode it, sat in his garage at £100 per day to the insurance company of the driver at fault. £3000! A scam really. So, unless it's really valuable, the slightest bodywork damage can result in a cat D assessment.
Any chassis damage would, IMHO, be cat C almost straight away. Repairable if done properly but uneconomic.
Snapped cranks on the 500's are apparently from unbalancing the crank with heavy trigger wheels etc. I think you'll find that a lot of 500's had never had any issues.
As for your prospective purchase, the 500 will have more power and torque. Very few are cross-bolted, however, TVR did apparently ultrasonically check the block castings to ensure the 500's received the castings with a thicker water jacket (denoted by a red marking in the valley). If you talk to Dom and Powers, he'll tell you that they've had more snapped cranks from cross bolted blocks, than non-cross bolted. The key ismthe balancing.
As standard, the 500 has stage 3 heads, lightened flywheel, 44mm trumpet and inlet and of course more displacement. So out of the box, then you'll have more bang per buck.
However, depending on price, you could always supercharge or turbo a 400 for good results.
As the others say, buy on condition. Both could cost you in the long run. Depending on mileage, you should consider things like cam, outriggers, PAS etc as matter of course.
As for your prospective purchase, the 500 will have more power and torque. Very few are cross-bolted, however, TVR did apparently ultrasonically check the block castings to ensure the 500's received the castings with a thicker water jacket (denoted by a red marking in the valley). If you talk to Dom and Powers, he'll tell you that they've had more snapped cranks from cross bolted blocks, than non-cross bolted. The key ismthe balancing.
As standard, the 500 has stage 3 heads, lightened flywheel, 44mm trumpet and inlet and of course more displacement. So out of the box, then you'll have more bang per buck.
However, depending on price, you could always supercharge or turbo a 400 for good results.
As the others say, buy on condition. Both could cost you in the long run. Depending on mileage, you should consider things like cam, outriggers, PAS etc as matter of course.
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