TVR Chimaera passenger door lock stutter

[LenChim]

The passenger door lock on my 1999 4li stutters when I remotely open the door by the fob, by the door button, the gear lever button and it does not lock. Is it the solenoid? Is there a relay anywere that is causing it? Is there a way of testing it? (The solenoid that is.) Is there a best place to buy a solenoid? I have looked in Steve's book but it is not really clear how to remove it.
Has anybody got any short answers? Many thanks. Len

[Pupp]

Favourite would be the two switches that are let into the sills - they get crudded up and/or lose packers that depress them the right amount when the door is closed. Either can make the solenoids chatter - easy to check/fix

[ukdj]

As Pupp said, check/clean the switches in the sills 1st and also check on the bottom of the doors where they meet the switch to make sure you haven't lost the little disc that depresses the switch the correct amount, they may also be worn and just need replacing.

The solenoids or suitable replacements are available from the usual suppliers :-

Racetech http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/m0599-tvr-car-part...

tvr-parts http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-m0...

or alternatively maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2-wire-door-lock-motor-y...

Once you have cleaned the switches, depress them manually you should be able to hear the solenoid operating hopefully correctly, might be useful to have a friend operate the other one at the same time just to make sure both switches are making the required contact.

The solenoids can be swapped from passenger/drivers side so if you have one working solenoid, just swap for the working one to prove where the problem is.

Whilst you are in the region of the solenoid it is worth checking the contacts are clean & not corroded etc and that you are getting a good 12v/earth with a multimeter. Also check the mechanism/mechanical part of the lock is well greased etc.

The central locking relay is the long grey one located top left under the dash top if you need to investigate further.

Edited by ukdj on Sunday 22 February 16:32

[LenChim]

Thanks for the information I will go and give the suggestions a try tomorrow and let you know the outcome.

[QBee]

I get all those symptoms if my door isn't fully shut - which backs up what the others have said regarding the door switches rather than the solenoid.

[tonys]

If it is 'pads' on the door, easy to use the sticky pads that are fixed to the bottom of furniture legs etc. if you can't find the original type. Mine also sounds similar if door not shut properly, so it could well be the pads, as suggested by others.

[CHIMAERABLUE]

I have had the same problem from a faulty door switch, purchased a new one from a one of the usual TIV parts supplier's. Expensive for what it is,and when fitted found the actuating lever shorter than original,so had to glue a fair bit of packing to the door to make it work !!!!!

[WOO5IE]

You could try spaying the mechanism with WD40 . I get this from time to time and it has always fixed it

Access is via the flap behind the seat. The passenger door seems to do it more often but that's probably due to less use than the drivers side.

[LenChim]

I have looked at the sill door switches they seem to be ok, I have disconnected the c/locking solenoid on the passenger side as that is the one that is stuttering. I have unplugged it and plugged it in several times so that it is making a good contact and I have disconnected the rod so that it is unloaded and it still stutters so I think I will have to take it out.


Does anyone know what each of the wires do? e.g. Power in, earth etc? Also is it just the 3 allen screws in the front of the catch plate that holds the solenoid plate in place? Is there anything that will drop down and fall in the bottom when the solenoid plate is released?
Thanks for your help so fare. Len

[tonys]

The following link might assist if you come to remove/replace the solenoid - see my entry on it re the wiring colours I found on mine.

[rigga]

tonys said:

The following link might assist if you come to remove/replace the solenoid - see my entry on it re the wiring colours I found on mine.

What link?

[LenChim]

rigga said:

What link?

That's a very good point but I still need the help guys.
Len

[DAVEY DEE]

BUMP.

Any joy in fixing??

[tonys]

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=3&a...

It's a bit late, but I've just seen that there wasn't a link on my earlier post so I'll try again

[LenChim]

DAVEY DEE said:

BUMP.

Any joy in fixing??

Yes I had to replace the solenoid in the end not very difficult. Bought the solenoid from TVR Parts LTD, took the solenoid mounting plat out by undoing the Allan screws on the catch plate. Removed the old solenoid fixed the new one on with the old screws. The most difficult part is cutting the plug off and rewiring the old plug onto the new solenoid, I had to do it in the car as I did not know the combination so it was a suck it and see until I got it right, you can now change the plug off the car. For my car the wiring sequence was as follows:-
Car wires-- New solenoid wires
Blue--- Red-- Solenoid motor.
Green-- Blue-- Solenoid motor.
Brown-- Brown-- Switch normally open.
White-- Mauve-- Switch normally closed.
Black-- Black--- Switch common.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

I need to do this too, only for me it's the driver's side.

For over a year it has occasionally stopped locking/unlocking, but I found that it would work again for a month or two if I wiggled the actuator rod on the solenoid, which always felt like it had got stuck.

More recently the symptoms have changed. It now always locks and unlocks, but when unlocking it makes a horrible loud chatter as if the solenoid is activating very very fast for about a second. It then often makes the same noise when opening the door as well. Strangely it doesn't do it when locking, only when unlocking.

I have checked the door switch, which is clean and moves easily. Just to be clear, are people saying there are TWO switches per door? If so, I hadn't noticed that, so that is something else for me to check.

But I reckon I'll end up replacing the solenoid as well.

[LenChim]

Dr Mike Oxgreen said:

I need to do this too, only for me it's the driver's side.

For over a year it has occasionally stopped locking/unlocking, but I found that it would work again for a month or two if I wiggled the actuator rod on the solenoid, which always felt like it had got stuck.

More recently the symptoms have changed. It now always locks and unlocks, but when unlocking it makes a horrible loud chatter as if the solenoid is activating very very fast for about a second. It then often makes the same noise when opening the door as well. Strangely it doesn't do it when locking, only when unlocking.

I have checked the door switch, which is clean and moves easily. Just to be clear, are people saying there are TWO switches per door? If so, I hadn't noticed that, so that is something else for me to check.

But I reckon I'll end up replacing the solenoid as well.

Yes there are two solenoid per door.
The solenoid with 2 wires is the door locking solenoid actuated by the button under the wing mirror, the 5 wire solenoid is the central locking solenoid operated by the key fob button or the chave lock button in the center of the door opening knob in the middle of the car. When activated it disables the wing mirror door opening buttons.
I hope that helps. Len.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

I think you've misunderstood me. I know there are two solenoids: one for locking and one for opening. My question was about the sill switches; something earlier in the thread made it sound like there are two per side, but I think I've misinterpreted and I can definitely only see one sill switch each side.

Pressing and releasing the switch makes a gentle "thunk" from one of the solenoids, so I'm pretty sure there's no problem there.

I bought a five-wire solenoid a while ago, but then discovered I could make the problem go away by manually operating the locking solenoid's metal rod - for a while at least - so replacing it wasn't so urgent. But the noise it makes now is truly horrible so it needs doing.

I have heard the faint chattering you get when a door isn't properly closed, and it's a completely different noise. The sound I'm getting is really loud!

Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Friday 15th May 18:34

[LenChim]

Dr Mike Oxgreen said:

I think you've misunderstood me. I know there are two solenoids: one for locking and one for opening. My question was about the sill switches; something earlier in the thread made it sound like there are two per side, but I think I've misinterpreted and I can definitely only see one sill switch each side.

Pressing and releasing the switch makes a gentle "thunk" from one of the solenoids, so I'm pretty sure there's no problem there.

I bought a five-wire solenoid a while ago, but then discovered I could make the problem go away by manually operating the locking solenoid's metal rod - for a while at least - so replacing it wasn't so urgent. But the noise it makes now is truly horrible so it needs doing.

I have heard the faint chattering you get when a door isn't properly closed, and it's a completely different noise. The sound I'm getting is really loud!

Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Friday 15th May 18:34

That sounds like a solenoid chewing it's own innards.