New cam break in concerns
Discussion
Taken from ‘Comp Cams’ instructions…
'Camshaft Break-in- Procedure
Important: On hydraulic and solid flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm up to 2000 to 2500 during the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically between 2000 to 2500 to direct oil splash different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change the oil and filter to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are remove from the engine. The inner valve springs can now be replaced.'
Really? So i would need to remove my inner valve springs, build and run the engine for 30 mins, then strip it all down again to refit the springs. Then i would have to use short term head gaskets right? Then fit the expensive MLS after the break-in.
Surely this is overkill to safeguard the cam and lifters.
'Camshaft Break-in- Procedure
Important: On hydraulic and solid flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm up to 2000 to 2500 during the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically between 2000 to 2500 to direct oil splash different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change the oil and filter to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are remove from the engine. The inner valve springs can now be replaced.'
Really? So i would need to remove my inner valve springs, build and run the engine for 30 mins, then strip it all down again to refit the springs. Then i would have to use short term head gaskets right? Then fit the expensive MLS after the break-in.
Surely this is overkill to safeguard the cam and lifters.
I purchased 6 quarts of break-in oil plus additional ZDDP additive that cost me over £50. Also the cam came with lube.
The break-in says 2000-2500 rpm but i would normally fire it up and take it from 2500 minimum and rev upto 5k not settling in any one place for a good 10 mins with a mate looking for leaks and to get the engine temp up to 90 and let give it a rest if it goes any higher.
The break-in says 2000-2500 rpm but i would normally fire it up and take it from 2500 minimum and rev upto 5k not settling in any one place for a good 10 mins with a mate looking for leaks and to get the engine temp up to 90 and let give it a rest if it goes any higher.
I'd have thought 2500 RPM was plenty, some reckon you can even take it for a gentle drive instead.
I wonder was there a cam break in procedure on these engine when new? Maybe it could account for the fact that some of the original cams lasted 50k while others lasted 150k.
Also, you can quite easily remove the valve springs without removing the heads. I just did it to replace my valve stem seals.
I wonder was there a cam break in procedure on these engine when new? Maybe it could account for the fact that some of the original cams lasted 50k while others lasted 150k.
Also, you can quite easily remove the valve springs without removing the heads. I just did it to replace my valve stem seals.
Spoke to Ray at V8 Developments about this as I have just installed one of their MC1 cams. I was told that once the engine has fired up and oil pressure is established, ie the oil light goes out, to rev it between 2500 and 4000 rpm for 20 minutes. By all means shut the engine down to check the water level, but once restarted continue with the bedding in procedure and not to let the engine idle.
Have to say I haven't done this yet as the I am a week away from putting the body back on after a chassis refurb, but it would be silly not to follow Ray's advice.
Have to say I haven't done this yet as the I am a week away from putting the body back on after a chassis refurb, but it would be silly not to follow Ray's advice.
JWzed said:
Spoke to Ray at V8 Developments about this as I have just installed one of their MC1 cams. I was told that once the engine has fired up and oil pressure is established, ie the oil light goes out, to rev it between 2500 and 4000 rpm for 20 minutes. By all means shut the engine down to check the water level, but once restarted continue with the bedding in procedure and not to let the engine idle.
Have to say I haven't done this yet as the I am a week away from putting the body back on after a chassis refurb, but it would be silly not to follow Ray's advice.
Pretty much as i would do then. No talk of running without innner valve springs then?Have to say I haven't done this yet as the I am a week away from putting the body back on after a chassis refurb, but it would be silly not to follow Ray's advice.
db484bhpv8 said:
Pretty much as i would do then. No talk of running without innner valve springs then?
Maybe benefits long term but it's a lot of faffing I reckon if you go with the supplied Comp Cams oil and fluctate the revs around 2.5/3.5K you should be fine 
I always found the rope method massy and time consuming I then made this in the 80's before the tool was widely available to keep valves shut but make sure the engine is at TDC if not the engine rotates soon as you apply air pressure 
don't get much use nowadays but was intended for Ford Pinto/Essex motors etc to change short lived valve stems seals 
db484bhpv8 said:
Pretty much as i would do then. No talk of running without innner valve springs then?
Ray said nothing about taking out the second valve springs. Having said that I never really thought to ask the question and I have never heard of it being suggested before except here on PH. Would it perhaps depend on the design of the cam, ie one with a very high lift?
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