Visit to Auschwitz - any tips/ideas/experiences?
Visit to Auschwitz - any tips/ideas/experiences?
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-DeaDLocK-

Original Poster:

3,368 posts

274 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Hi guys,

I've just decided that I would like to visit Oswiecim in Poland, site of the Nazi Auschwitz/Birkenau concentration camps.

It will probably be a weekend break a couple of weekends from now, leaving on a Friday and returning the next Monday. The plan is to stay in a hotel in the centre of Krakow (or close to it), spend a day in Auschwitz, a day or half-day in the salt mines near Krakow and the rest in Krakow itself.

Has anyone been to the sites? Any tips on getting around? Is English commonly spoken around these places? Hotel recommendations?

Thanks for any general advice.

Cheers,
D

s 8 grn

1,198 posts

266 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
I went on an organised trip with my synagogue for 1 day only so I can't really help you out too much. English seemed to be spoken but it was broken.

It was THE most moving experience of my life.

And second to visitng Yad Vashem in Israel - the Holocaust museum where you can view horrors that are indescribable.

Thom

1,742 posts

270 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
s 8 grn said:
I went on an organised trip with my synagogue


It would possible for a goy to take part in such an organised trip, surely ?

-DeaDLocK-

Original Poster:

3,368 posts

274 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Thom said:
It would possible for a goy to take part in such an organised trip, surely ?
Yes. there are loads of such organised trips, for Jews and otherwise.

However most of them aren't during this time of year.

I would rather much go alone anyway for a number of reasons:

1) I can do things in my own time and my own itinerary.

2) I am a photographer, and taking photographs is a seriously anti-social thing and as a shared practice should only be done with fellow photographers.

3) This time of year is my ideal time. Though cold, there won't be hordes of children running around with ice-cream diluting the experience of being there.

D

s 8 grn

1,198 posts

266 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Thom said:

s 8 grn said:
I went on an organised trip with my synagogue



It would possible for a goy to take part in such an organised trip, surely ?


Without doubt. If you have a local synagogue then approach them/their office secratary and see if they have anything planned. I'm sure they will help.

If anyone needs any help then I could always ask around for details in your area.

s 8 grn

1,198 posts

266 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
-DeaDLocK- said:

Thom said:
It would possible for a goy to take part in such an organised trip, surely ?

Yes. there are loads of such organised trips, for Jews and otherwise.

However most of them aren't during this time of year.

I would rather much go alone anyway for a number of reasons:

1) I can do things in my own time and my own itinerary.

2) I am a photographer, and taking photographs is a seriously anti-social thing and as a shared practice should only be done with fellow photographers.

3) This time of year is my ideal time. Though cold, there won't be hordes of children running around with ice-cream diluting the experience of being there.

D


Somehow I don't think that number 3 on your list will be a problem what ever time of year you go.

Balmoral Green

42,558 posts

271 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
My wife and I nearly did this in 1993, we were just passing, didnt really realise where we were actually. Anyway, we considered going in, but as we were touring and in our motorhome, and it was spur of the moment, we both had the same thought about it. We felt like tourists, we looked like tourists, we were tourists, and this isnt a tourist attraction. There was something wrong we felt about just popping in under those circumstances. So we skipped it. On reflection I wish I hadnt. I think it is a place we should visit, but with the correct level of gravitas.
Another time maybe.

s 8 grn

1,198 posts

266 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Balmoral Green said:
My wife and I nearly did this in 1993, we were just passing, didnt really realise where we were actually. Anyway, we considered going in, but as we were touring and in our motorhome, and it was spur of the moment, we both had the same thought about it. We felt like tourists, we looked like tourists, we were tourists, and this isnt a tourist attraction. There was something wrong we felt about just popping in under those circumstances. So we skipped it. On reflection I wish I hadnt. I think it is a place we should visit, but with the correct level of gravitas.
Another time maybe.


I think you made the right decision. Everyone I know that has been has needed time before to 'mentally' prepare but also it took some days to 'mentally' recover from the experience afterwards.

It would have really changed the dynamics of your holiday.

chrishillcoat

168 posts

268 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
I was there over the summer - you'll be fine with English, as all the signs are in 3 or 4 languages. Winter might be a more moving time to go, as the people there had only rags to wear.

I took a few photos when I was there too. In some ways I wish I'd taken more, but standing next to the "ovens" somehow didn't feel too appropriate.

cotty

41,904 posts

307 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
s 8 grn said:
Yad Vashem in Israel - the Holocaust museum where you can view horrors that are indescribable.


Been there. They have a room in darkness with lots of mirrors and three candles in the middle, so the candles seem to go off into the distance. You hold a hand rail to walk round and there are faint iluminated arrows in the floor. I think its every 30 second they read out a childs name that died, it will take countless years to do a full roll call and thats just for the children.

theconrodkid

372 posts

283 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
been to both of them,it was a "moving experience"that made me wonder what made some people tick,my g/f lives about 1 hour from there,sure she could help with hotels etc,just mail me if you need any info

jc8542

234 posts

294 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Went there in 2002, whilst interrailing though eastern europe.

The way it is organised is not usually made clear in Guidebooks. The camps (as described on the recent documentary) are two parts, about 2 miles apart. The original camp is a museum. The block houses have been converted into displays (to a varying extent). Some are left how they were, others were converted to show the shoes, hair, cases. A couple have been converted fully into exhibitions. You can take tours round, or you can wander round by yourself (which we did and would recommend). Everything is labelled in several languages including English. If possible I would recommend getting there as soon as possible when it opens, the problem being the Shearings coaches on their half day whistlestop tours to the place can block things up for everybody else. Auschwitz A is very busy in summer, often with people who are only their as part of the tour. No disrespect meant to anybody here, but the least interested people we saw in the whole time were an Israeli school trip, who sat playing gameboys on the steps of the barrack blocks. There were a couple of German parties there as well, they were the best behaved of anyone. There is a restaurant there, which does good (Polish) food. There isn't anything at the MUCH larger Auschwitz B camp. This is two miles away however can be reached by a free bus.

Auschwitz B is very different, it has very little signed explanation, as it has been left as it was found by the allies. You enter through the watch tower and we found that most of the guided tours only go down the middle (along the railway lines)to the main gas chambers (and the international memorial of peace, which is the only modern addition to the camp). When you leave the central path, you will be on your own, I was most struck by the quiet and peacefulness and the number of wild animals that have made it their home. Seeing a fox wandering between the camp blocks, and (in the summer) hundreds of bright green frogs swimming in the pools in which ash was dumped was very strange. Allow at least half a day for Auschwitz B.

Taking photos shouldn't be a problem, provided you act in a VERY respectful manner. For some people this is a VERY important trip. Seeing people taking their holiday snaps, posing smiling and pointing towards the railway tower,stradling the railway, riled me. We were there with a couple of cameras, but chose to buy postcards from the small (and inconspicuous) gift shop.

You can get the Oswicim station from Krakow, however it is a bit of a challenge. People speak Englinsh in Krakow, but as soon as you leave there, it is Polish only. They are very friendly though towards foreign people.

In the case of the Weilizka (sp?) salt mines, These can only be visited in guided groups, there were 4 (or so) guided tours in English per day. It is worth checking before you go when the tours start. The tour took about 2 hours, and was one of the highlights of the month we spent in Eastern Europe. The underground Cathedral is fantastic to see, as are the smaller miners chapels. To come across a brass band 1000ft below the ground, or to visit the cafe and post office 2000ft (think) down is extremely strange. To get there is an easy trip on a train from Krakow.

Krakow deserves at least a day if not two. The main things to see are the castle, the central square (and market hall)and the jewish quarter. One thing not to be missed is at 8pm (if I remember correctly) every day, the towns firemen do a cornet salute from the top of the tower looking over the central square.

You can walk from the centre of Krakow to the Jewish Ghetto 2miles or so to the south. The camp and house depicted in Schindlers list is about 4-5 miles to the south of the centre.

Food is generally good, you can buy large pretzels from street sellers for a snack (v nice). Be VERY VERY careful of the smoked cheeses sold by little old ladies in the centre. They are so smokey it had me coffing and spluttering for aboud half an hour afterwards.

As for hotels, can't really help, we stayed in a Hostel (Hotel Zaczek) which was functional and clean. The Mercure over the road looked nice.

Note: all this is written from memory, without any reference to info!!

Balmoral Green

42,558 posts

271 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
jc8542 said:
In the case of the Weilizka (sp?) salt mines, These can only be visited in guided groups, there were 4 (or so) guided tours in English per day. It is worth checking before you go when the tours start. The tour took about 2 hours, and was one of the highlights of the month we spent in Eastern Europe. The underground Cathedral is fantastic to see, as are the smaller miners chapels. To come across a brass band 1000ft below the ground, or to visit the cafe and post office 2000ft (think) down is extremely strange.


We did that, amazing. To get down we had to walk down a rickety old wooden spiral staircase in a square vertical shaft. The updraft was terrific, all I could think was that I hope there wasnt a fire. On the way back we were crammed into a tiny cage like sardines. I expect there is a bit of modernity though now.

Podie

46,647 posts

298 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Can't add much to the thread, except that it WILL "hit you" at some point.

Some people get it straight away... whereas it took 24 hours for it to sink in for me. It remains the only time I have ever seen my Dad cry; he said that one of the photos reminded him of my sister.

It's quite destressing if there are groups of Jewish people wandering around (often with their flags).

I vividly remember standing there, freezing (with huge coat on) what the hell happened. It is true what they say; the birds don't sing.

Balmoral Green

42,558 posts

271 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Balmoral Green said:
all I could think was that I hope there wasnt a fire. On the way back we were crammed into a tiny cage like sardines.
Just realised the irony in that post, feel a bit humble now. Think I will have a drink.

-DeaDLocK-

Original Poster:

3,368 posts

274 months

Saturday 15th January 2005
quotequote all
Thanks for all your advice.

I have always had a bit of a fleeting interest in the Holocaust, recently resurrected by the spotlight generated due to this year being the 60th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz.

I am only in my early 20s but at the moment feel a strong urge to visit the infamous site, not so much as a sightseeing expedition but to be expectantly pummelled and maybe in some way changed by the experience. I want to see first hand what the incarcerated prisoners went through. I want to walk on land tread before me by thousands of murdered people. It's not a morbid fascination that drives this - I somehow feel that maybe I owe the people who were killed there some thought, some sense of shared experience, some obligation to remember and to know. And the best way of doing this I think is by going there myself.

My trip to Poland will be primarily to see the concentration camps - otherwise Krakow wouldn't have had the pleasure of my company, as worthy as it is as a singular tourist destination.

I've already been out to Borders to get my Lonely Planet guide book. Flights to Krakow are only £100 and the hotels are quite cheap this time of year. I am going to do it.

It will also be a photography trip for me - I intend (like so many before me) to attempt to record the sombre mood of the place. My photos will not be "snapshots". Of course this is assuming that my desire to picture-take isn't overwhelmed by the gravity of the place...

Thanks again.

D

tubbystu

3,846 posts

283 months

Sunday 16th January 2005
quotequote all
Jan 27th (IIRC) is International Holocaust day so your timing may want to avoid this period.

Too many heads of state and press getting in the way and pushing hotel prices up.........

sadoksevoli

1,232 posts

280 months

Sunday 16th January 2005
quotequote all
Oswiecim/Auschwitz is a truly moving experience, BUT please please consider it in perspective and, in agreement with some of the other posts, visits to Poland are not just to visit Holocaust sites - Poland has indeed a lot to offer besides the camps (whilst not belittling their significance). A while back one of the twits that do Virgin radio's breakfast show slagged off poland, and said that besides Aushwitz the country was dull and depressing - how wrong he was.

rico

7,917 posts

278 months

Sunday 16th January 2005
quotequote all
I went to Krakow and Auschwitz on a history trip about 5 years ago.

Krakow:

A gorgeous city, i believed its the only major city in the region that wasn't heavily bombed by the Nazis, as Hitler liked the city. Central square is all i saw as we didn't spend long in the city (1 night). Lots of small markets and a major one in the centre of the square.

Auschwitz:

Like mentioned earlier, it WILL hit you. It's an incredily moving experience. It was interesting watching normally lively and obnoxious classmates walk around with a look of amazement on their faces and without a smile for once.
When i went there was a eery fog that meant it was impossible to see the entrance hut once half way down the railroad. The rest of the area was fogfree that day.
Very spooky place, especially considering how it has been left as it was.

A trip everyone should do at least once I'm planning to go back in the next couple of years, as with age, i've learnt a lot more about the holocaust and feel i will gain further from another visit.

Graham

16,378 posts

307 months

Sunday 16th January 2005
quotequote all
I've not been but all i can suggest is go if you want and do it in your own time and on your own terms.

feel the vibes from the place for your self without the baggage of others.

imho taking photos should be fine its expanding the message of what happened there, but respect the feelings of otheres there at the same time.

I would tend to ignore the interpretation presented other than the basic facts, as i expect there is much personel pain behind the presented information.


go there see the place look at the (terrible unexcuable ) facts and come back with your own feelings.

Ther is no reason why it happened it just did, and it was wrong, the world ( jewish,christian,islamic,etc) n eeds to come to terms with it and make sure nothing similar happens again.

but to me a visit to a place like that needs to be personal. I've visited war graves, across the world and even wtc this year and they are all differnet.


Cheers G
(please excuse alcohol induced rambling)