Calipers: Rebuild or Reman - advice please
Discussion
To rebuild both my front calipers with new pistons runs approx $35 a side in parts. To have them rebuilt runs $150 a side in the USA. Rebuilt off the shelve in the USA is proving impossible to find. To buy reman ones from the UK through BRAKEPARTS is $110 a side, Budweg brand, including postage.
I've not rebuilt calipers before but looking at the vids on YouTube it's pretty straight forward. So is it worth the $35 plus a few hours aside in my time, hoping the bore is still serviceable, or better just to buy the re-man from BRAKEPARTS and be done in 30 mins aside with virtually no mess?. Difference would probably about $150 after I buy brake cleaner etc.....
Also, my brake master is leaking at the reservoir seals. So just replace the seals or buy a new re-man one.
Thanks.
I've not rebuilt calipers before but looking at the vids on YouTube it's pretty straight forward. So is it worth the $35 plus a few hours aside in my time, hoping the bore is still serviceable, or better just to buy the re-man from BRAKEPARTS and be done in 30 mins aside with virtually no mess?. Difference would probably about $150 after I buy brake cleaner etc.....
Also, my brake master is leaking at the reservoir seals. So just replace the seals or buy a new re-man one.
Thanks.
Edited by GBinUSA on Tuesday 17th March 01:48
Personally i don't mess with brakes...I don't even fit pads..But thats only because i had an horrific accident some years ago, Although it had nothing to do with the workings of the car....
If you feel competent then rebuild them..There is loads of help to guide you..
As regards to the master cylinder i believe it will be Ford Cortina mk4-5....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PMF226-cortina-brake-Mas...
http://www.newpartsonline.co.uk/index.php?product_...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CORTINA-MK-5-MODELS...
If they don't post to you then I'm sure we can work something out...I posted a knackered AFM to a friend in Oz , The post office asked if it was books..And the postage would be...£35..However when i told her it was a part for a car..That is broken she said..£75...
...I did a rewind and said "Yes..Books"..I was advised that they do scan stuff..Which i knew already but they got there okay..I guess the customs thought.."Bloody poms..They narf have some weird shaped books"...
If you feel competent then rebuild them..There is loads of help to guide you..
As regards to the master cylinder i believe it will be Ford Cortina mk4-5....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PMF226-cortina-brake-Mas...
http://www.newpartsonline.co.uk/index.php?product_...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CORTINA-MK-5-MODELS...
If they don't post to you then I'm sure we can work something out...I posted a knackered AFM to a friend in Oz , The post office asked if it was books..And the postage would be...£35..However when i told her it was a part for a car..That is broken she said..£75...
...I did a rewind and said "Yes..Books"..I was advised that they do scan stuff..Which i knew already but they got there okay..I guess the customs thought.."Bloody poms..They narf have some weird shaped books"...Here are the seals..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-Cortina-Mk4-MK5-Bra...
You might be able to get them cheaper if you can find them....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-Cortina-Mk4-MK5-Bra...
You might be able to get them cheaper if you can find them....
Hi gavin
If you feel confident have a go but bear in mind when calipers and master/ slave cylinders are rebuilt they are usually pressure tested with compressed air, getting the pistons out can be fun without compressed air ,can you find a mate whos done it and would take a drink and sarnie to help you?
As zig says its probably one area or car repairs that require a little bit of skill.
Good luck.
Greg
If you feel confident have a go but bear in mind when calipers and master/ slave cylinders are rebuilt they are usually pressure tested with compressed air, getting the pistons out can be fun without compressed air ,can you find a mate whos done it and would take a drink and sarnie to help you?
As zig says its probably one area or car repairs that require a little bit of skill.
Good luck.
Greg
Thanks all for the replies. Very much appreciated.
I am waiting on a lead time for a source here in the States on reman units but if no joy then I think I willl go for a rebuild on the calipers. ill enjoy doing something new.
Have ordered the master cylinder rebuild kit also.
Cheers,
Gavin.
I am waiting on a lead time for a source here in the States on reman units but if no joy then I think I willl go for a rebuild on the calipers. ill enjoy doing something new.
Have ordered the master cylinder rebuild kit also.
Cheers,
Gavin.
What are people's thoughts on splitting calibers for a rebuild. From those that have done it please. It's a mixed opinion around the web.
I found this article on triumph caliper rebuilds that say too split them as long as you have the small o rings.
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fr...
I found this article on triumph caliper rebuilds that say too split them as long as you have the small o rings.
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fr...
Don't split them, your better of sending them to a specialist if you feel they need splitting. Usually, all they needs is a good strip down, clean with a wire brush (being lazy I used dremel with a wire brush attachment), lick of brake paint, news Pistons and seals. While your their remove the bleed nipple and clean out the threads, if the head is damaged just replace.
Refit, decent new pads , bleed and that's really all they should need.
Refit, decent new pads , bleed and that's really all they should need.
Re M/C... 5-6 years ago mine went south. IIRC, the bore was pitted too so it was a toss between replacing or rebuilding. I couldn't find the same m/c so I sent it off to Apple Hydraulics www.applehydraulics.com and they completely redid it. A bit pricy but they did a very good job.
Looking at their web site, they rebuild calipers too. Grady
Looking at their web site, they rebuild calipers too. Grady
After hours of research I have concluded that a caliper rebuild is straight forward and relatively simple. There are plenty of 'how to' YouTube vids on the process posted by respected and knowledgable people. The seal kits and pistons are the same as the Delorean, late TR6 and the Mercury Capri 1971- 1977 so finding the parts in the USA is easy and cheap. $68 from RockAuto gets you seal kits with Pistons and a closeout set of pads, all USA/Canada manufactured. Off the shelf rebuilt calipers are NLA in the USA, I guess the demand for Delorean and Mercury Capri front brakes, both use the M16 Girling caliper, doesn't warrant a build run. I shall try to rebuild without splitting but if I must, I must but I think I shall be ok without having too.
Appreciate everyone's input.
Appreciate everyone's input.
Edited by GBinUSA on Tuesday 7th April 19:59
My MOT is this coming Saturday so yesterday decided to pull the brake pads on the front calipers and give everything a clean up. When I re-assembled and went for a test drive the car was pulling to the right. I've pulled the left hand caliper apart and one of the pistons was sticking so tonight I've removed the caliper, stripped the pistons out, cleaned the whole lot up and painted the caliper. There was a very tiny amount of surface rust just on the outer edge of one of the pistons that was causing the issue so used very fine wet and dry on it and it's come up like a new pin. Now just waiting for the new seal kit to arrive in the morning. Kit is from flea at £14.75 including delivery (UK obviously).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x2-TVR-Tasmin-280-350-39...
In all it took less than an hour to remove, strip, clean and paint and I reckon no more than an hour tomorrow to re-assembly, fit and bleed it through.
Personally I've stripped and rebuild probably a dozen calipers over the years on various Triumphs and my previous BMW convertible and never had an issue with them not going back easily and without leaks or issues. The key thing is to keep everything spotlessly clean both before and during re-assembly. If you've got access to an air compressor then if you get a suitable connection on to the caliper you can blow the pistons out even if they are very tight. The trick is to ensure that the less sticky piston doesn't shoot out, leaving the stuck one in place. I gently secure the non-sticking one with mole grips and a strip of wood to protect the piston outer edge and then let the air force the more troublesome one out. The free piston can be carefully levered out with two large flat head screwdrivers under the outer rubber seal retaining lip. Soaking the pistons/caliper with silicon penetrating oil overnight also helps loosen things up.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x2-TVR-Tasmin-280-350-39...
In all it took less than an hour to remove, strip, clean and paint and I reckon no more than an hour tomorrow to re-assembly, fit and bleed it through.
Personally I've stripped and rebuild probably a dozen calipers over the years on various Triumphs and my previous BMW convertible and never had an issue with them not going back easily and without leaks or issues. The key thing is to keep everything spotlessly clean both before and during re-assembly. If you've got access to an air compressor then if you get a suitable connection on to the caliper you can blow the pistons out even if they are very tight. The trick is to ensure that the less sticky piston doesn't shoot out, leaving the stuck one in place. I gently secure the non-sticking one with mole grips and a strip of wood to protect the piston outer edge and then let the air force the more troublesome one out. The free piston can be carefully levered out with two large flat head screwdrivers under the outer rubber seal retaining lip. Soaking the pistons/caliper with silicon penetrating oil overnight also helps loosen things up.
Just an update on my brake situation.....I finally had the time to get the car on axle stands and attack the front brakes. In all honesty the caliper rebuild was very straight forward. I used my mini air compressor to force the pistons out with no trouble. Didn't have to split the caliber either. Inside things were as expected as a result of old brake fluid, very dirty and rust on the piston surfaces. New pistons and seals did the job and now the car brakes straight. As has been mentioned by pretty much everyone, the braking is not that impressive and I understand the desire to search for a better upgrade.
Another first for me was gravity bleeding the brakes. Such a simple process and works very well. Would highly recommend it for those who fly solo in the garage. I had to bleed the entire system because I removed the MC to replace the seals below the resorvior.
As gravity bleeding is pretty effortless I've decided to add brake fluid flushing to the yearly spring service.
Did the rest of the spring service whilst the car was on the stands - all the oils and greased the uj's - so that should be it for this season.
Here's to a happy and fun driving season for all.
Another first for me was gravity bleeding the brakes. Such a simple process and works very well. Would highly recommend it for those who fly solo in the garage. I had to bleed the entire system because I removed the MC to replace the seals below the resorvior.
As gravity bleeding is pretty effortless I've decided to add brake fluid flushing to the yearly spring service.
Did the rest of the spring service whilst the car was on the stands - all the oils and greased the uj's - so that should be it for this season.
Here's to a happy and fun driving season for all.
Edited by GBinUSA on Friday 8th May 01:51
GBinUSA said:
Just an update on my brake situation.....I finally had the time to get the car on axle stands and attack the front brakes. In all honesty the caliper rebuild was very straight forward. I used my mini air compressor to force the pistons out with no trouble. Didn't have to split the caliber either. Inside things were as expected as a result of old brake fluid, very dirty and rust on the piston surfaces. New pistons and seals did the job and now the car brakes straight. As has been mentioned by pretty much everyone, the braking is not that impressive and I understand the desire to search for a better upgrade.
Another first for me was gravity bleeding the brakes. Such a simple process and works very well. Would highly recommend it for those who fly solo in the garage. I had to bleed the entire system because I removed the MC to replace the seals below the resorvior.
As gravity bleeding is pretty effortless I've decided to add brake fluid flushing to the yearly spring service.
Did the rest of the spring service whilst the car was on the stands - all the oils and greased the uj's - so that should be it for this season.
Here's to a happy and fun driving season for all.
There's real satisfaction when you've done the job yourself. First for the knowledge you've gained and second for the cash that you've saved. keep on Wedging. Mintex 1144 front pads made a huge difference to the stopping performance on my Wedge with standard calipers. Might be worth a try.Another first for me was gravity bleeding the brakes. Such a simple process and works very well. Would highly recommend it for those who fly solo in the garage. I had to bleed the entire system because I removed the MC to replace the seals below the resorvior.
As gravity bleeding is pretty effortless I've decided to add brake fluid flushing to the yearly spring service.
Did the rest of the spring service whilst the car was on the stands - all the oils and greased the uj's - so that should be it for this season.
Here's to a happy and fun driving season for all.
Edited by GBinUSA on Friday 8th May 01:51
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