CV joint and hub assembly - Help Please
Discussion
My car has had a noisy rear end for a while now, quite a few different noises actually.
1) Clunk on accelerating and decelerating. But ONLY when the car has driven 10 miles or so and warmed up.
I'm assuming this is an issue with the diff itself rather than bushes as it only manifests itself when the diff gets warm. If I try to move the prop shaft back and forth when cold there is no movement but when it's warm it does seem to slip and move a little. Enough to make a clunk. Gearbox or diff issue?
2) Hunming noise going around corners. Left and right.
Sounds like knackered wheel bearings but when the garage has checked they say it's the diff. There's no play in the bearings. I suppose these are easy enough to chane with the hub assembly removed?
3) Worst one is that last time I drove it it started making an awful knocking noise going around corners. I think left hand were worse.
I assume this is a CV joint issue as this is the state of the off side hub assembly;
Presumably that's all the grease that should have been contained within the boot? When I removed the driveshaft and moved the joints by hand the inboard joint felt smooth and silky and the outboard felt very 'grindy' and rough when moved.
Could this possibly be a source of the wheel bearing like noise I hear when going round corners or is it more likely just the reason for the knocking?
Sorry for the long post but all help greatly appreciated!
1) Clunk on accelerating and decelerating. But ONLY when the car has driven 10 miles or so and warmed up.
I'm assuming this is an issue with the diff itself rather than bushes as it only manifests itself when the diff gets warm. If I try to move the prop shaft back and forth when cold there is no movement but when it's warm it does seem to slip and move a little. Enough to make a clunk. Gearbox or diff issue?
2) Hunming noise going around corners. Left and right.
Sounds like knackered wheel bearings but when the garage has checked they say it's the diff. There's no play in the bearings. I suppose these are easy enough to chane with the hub assembly removed?
3) Worst one is that last time I drove it it started making an awful knocking noise going around corners. I think left hand were worse.
I assume this is a CV joint issue as this is the state of the off side hub assembly;
Presumably that's all the grease that should have been contained within the boot? When I removed the driveshaft and moved the joints by hand the inboard joint felt smooth and silky and the outboard felt very 'grindy' and rough when moved.
Could this possibly be a source of the wheel bearing like noise I hear when going round corners or is it more likely just the reason for the knocking?
Sorry for the long post but all help greatly appreciated!
If the outboard CV joint feels gritty then I would suspect that is the culprit.
Have a look at the grease in that CV joint and also check for holes in the CV boot.
Boots are only a tenner each and as above change the bearings while you have it stripped.
You will need a three legged puller to pull the two halves of the bearing apart and worth undoing
the wheel bearing nut with the upright on the car. It's done up to 250ft/lb.
Paul.
Have a look at the grease in that CV joint and also check for holes in the CV boot.
Boots are only a tenner each and as above change the bearings while you have it stripped.
You will need a three legged puller to pull the two halves of the bearing apart and worth undoing
the wheel bearing nut with the upright on the car. It's done up to 250ft/lb.
Paul.
Thanks for the input, chaps. Much appreciated.
I've ordered two CV joints and a new wheel bearing along with new CV boots.
I'm happy doing the CV joints but is it going to be easier to take the hub to the garage down the road and get them to remove and press the new bearings? I think it exceeds my skill (and tool) set....
I've ordered two CV joints and a new wheel bearing along with new CV boots.
I'm happy doing the CV joints but is it going to be easier to take the hub to the garage down the road and get them to remove and press the new bearings? I think it exceeds my skill (and tool) set....
CV joints removed from the driveshaft and I've managed to pull the bearings and completely disassemble the whole carrier/hub assembly. Couple of questions;
1) The new CV joints seem very tight. Are they a snug fit back onto the splines of the driveshaft or should they slot on easily? Do the GKN and BTR diffs both use the same CV joints?
2) What's the best way of pressing the bearings home? Presumably they 'square up' when the hub nut is tightened such that they align themselves properly? Can I just bash them in with a suitably large dowel and a mallet?
1) The new CV joints seem very tight. Are they a snug fit back onto the splines of the driveshaft or should they slot on easily? Do the GKN and BTR diffs both use the same CV joints?
2) What's the best way of pressing the bearings home? Presumably they 'square up' when the hub nut is tightened such that they align themselves properly? Can I just bash them in with a suitably large dowel and a mallet?
Crumpet said:
CV joints removed from the driveshaft and I've managed to pull the bearings and completely disassemble the whole carrier/hub assembly. Couple of questions;
1) The new CV joints seem very tight. Are they a snug fit back onto the splines of the driveshaft or should they slot on easily? Do the GKN and BTR diffs both use the same CV joints?
2) What's the best way of pressing the bearings home? Presumably they 'square up' when the hub nut is tightened such that they align themselves properly? Can I just bash them in with a suitably large dowel and a mallet?
Yes the CV joint should be an interference fit on the splines so a knackered old socket of suitable diameter and hammer will get those back on dont forget the circlips 1) The new CV joints seem very tight. Are they a snug fit back onto the splines of the driveshaft or should they slot on easily? Do the GKN and BTR diffs both use the same CV joints?
2) What's the best way of pressing the bearings home? Presumably they 'square up' when the hub nut is tightened such that they align themselves properly? Can I just bash them in with a suitably large dowel and a mallet?
the wheel bearing cups are a piece of cake to remove and install they are only shallow races so uou can use a brass drift and hammer to remove and install them moving in criss cross fashion making sure they are seated fully the thud will turn into a clonk when they are and .....DONT MIX THE CUPS AND BEARING RACES FROM ONE TO ANOTHER THEY ARE MATCHED ASSEMBLIES 
just make sure you have the necessary tools to tighten those hub nuts again.Brilliant, thanks for that. 
This is all new to me so it's a learning experience but I'm finding it relatively straight forward with the correct (borrowed from a farmer friend) tools. Just need to work out how to set 200lb/ft with a torque wrench that's stuck at 100!
More questions to come in due course!
This is all new to me so it's a learning experience but I'm finding it relatively straight forward with the correct (borrowed from a farmer friend) tools. Just need to work out how to set 200lb/ft with a torque wrench that's stuck at 100!
More questions to come in due course!
Crumpet said:
Brilliant, thanks for that.
This is all new to me so it's a learning experience but I'm finding it relatively straight forward with the correct (borrowed from a farmer friend) tools. Just need to work out how to set 200lb/ft with a torque wrench that's stuck at 100!
More questions to come in due course!
Crumpet, where do you live? Possibly some kind soul on here may be able to help out regarding the torque wrench. This is all new to me so it's a learning experience but I'm finding it relatively straight forward with the correct (borrowed from a farmer friend) tools. Just need to work out how to set 200lb/ft with a torque wrench that's stuck at 100!
More questions to come in due course!
J400GED said:
Crumpet, where do you live? Possibly some kind soul on here may be able to help out regarding the torque wrench.
Near Wakefield, but I've always been the type when I'm in doubt to do bolts up to 'FT'. At least the wheels won't come off.... My farming friend says the standard torque setting for tractors is 'TAF'. I'll see whether WD40 eases up the current torque wrench and I'll probably buy a small one to do the 35lb/ft for the driveshaft bolts. I try to acquire a few decent tools every year so maybe a trip to Halfords is on the cards tomorrow (I like their 'Advanced' range).
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