Discussion
HOW THE f
k DO YOU GET THEM OUT ????? Yes I know I'm shouting but I'm bloody annoyed. Got some new springs to put on the 350 which will hopefully increase my ride height. But after 3 hours of pissing about I'm no closer to getting the old ones out. Can't get spring compressors on and 2 bits of stout metal with a 10mm threaded rod between can't seem to compress the spring enough to get it out. Any shortcuts here ????
k DO YOU GET THEM OUT ????? Yes I know I'm shouting but I'm bloody annoyed. Got some new springs to put on the 350 which will hopefully increase my ride height. But after 3 hours of pissing about I'm no closer to getting the old ones out. Can't get spring compressors on and 2 bits of stout metal with a 10mm threaded rod between can't seem to compress the spring enough to get it out. Any shortcuts here ???? Edited by Rockettvr on Sunday 5th April 15:39
Right
Got one spring out and on to the next problem - j
The old spring (blue)is exactly the same as the new spring (Black). So how come my car rides so low ????
The only thing I can think of is that my shocks
Are a fixed length which keep the springs compressed and the ride hight low. If so how can I raise the ride hight while still retaining the adjustable shocks. ?
Got one spring out and on to the next problem - j
The old spring (blue)is exactly the same as the new spring (Black). So how come my car rides so low ????
The only thing I can think of is that my shocks
Are a fixed length which keep the springs compressed and the ride hight low. If so how can I raise the ride hight while still retaining the adjustable shocks. ?
Its been a while since I've changed springs, but I've certainly used the SH idea, which sounds like your threaded rod etc. . I also recall removing the lower wishbone bolt to help. Without knowing what the old and new spring ratings are (free length alone will not help) you can't tell what the swap will do to the ride height. Why do you think it's too low? I use a rule of thumb of 2 fingers gap between arch and tyre on the front. Don't forget that the rate and length of the springs controls the front camber, so ideally you'd get a geo check done first to see whether it's in spec.
You do have to compress them to get then out, but it is pig to get any compressor on. I undid the upper and lower wishbones from the hub and forward radius arm and opened the gap like a set of jaws. You'll have to compress the new one to get it in and then I used a jack to close the gap to connect everything back up. I swore alot also, but after the first one, the second one was easier. The spring is the ride height I believe, however my left side us about 1/2 inch higher than right and it appears to be how the body is bonded to the chassis and how much rubber spacer was used.
Any further probs give me a shout, but I'm not an expert !
Any further probs give me a shout, but I'm not an expert !
Picture on my profile is misleading. top of tyre and underside of wheel arch are pretty much equal with no gap so aprox 25-30 mm lower than std. This may show it a little better 
as regards springs the old and new look identical to me - same free length same no of coils same diameter of metal wire used etc
Lost the will to carry on at the moment - there's cold Becks in the fridge which is holding greater appeal
as regards springs the old and new look identical to me - same free length same no of coils same diameter of metal wire used etc Lost the will to carry on at the moment - there's cold Becks in the fridge which is holding greater appeal
Packers are ok - the rear has adjustable shocks and springs 
The whole car has been lowered by about 30mm all round but I want to raise it up gain as I feel that the ride has suffered as a result. It also plays havoc when trying to negotiate speed humps of which there are many round my way - managed to beach the car on a small grassy bank once too while trying to get into a car show (oops V embarrassing) also makes it hard to get a jack under the car.
I know the rear can be raised easily using the spring platform on the rear suspension but I assumed the front springs were shorter on the front to get the lower ride height. Think I may fit the new (std) springs and get the car back on the ground without fitting the shocks to see where the ride hieght is at. Then I'll fit the shocks to see if it makes much of a difference as the shocks are the only thing that doesn't look standard.
The whole car has been lowered by about 30mm all round but I want to raise it up gain as I feel that the ride has suffered as a result. It also plays havoc when trying to negotiate speed humps of which there are many round my way - managed to beach the car on a small grassy bank once too while trying to get into a car show (oops V embarrassing) also makes it hard to get a jack under the car.
I know the rear can be raised easily using the spring platform on the rear suspension but I assumed the front springs were shorter on the front to get the lower ride height. Think I may fit the new (std) springs and get the car back on the ground without fitting the shocks to see where the ride hieght is at. Then I'll fit the shocks to see if it makes much of a difference as the shocks are the only thing that doesn't look standard.
Edited by Rockettvr on Sunday 5th April 17:14
The new springs despite being the same length may well have less give under weight so will sit a bit higher than worn older ones. IMHO the shocks will not effect ride height but will control how much it dips under extra load and how quickly it returns to ride height. I've just fitted new springs and adjustable shocks, and the adjustment on the shocker just effects the hardness of the ride.
I not the best on "A" frame cars, but are the relevant suspension bushes OK ?
I not the best on "A" frame cars, but are the relevant suspension bushes OK ?
Only the spring sets the ride height.. nothing to do with the shocker. It's not easy to know how it's going to sit without actually fitting the springs unless you have something to measure the weight. Did you get the old ones copied or did you just ask for springs for a 350?
Engine size (or more specifically weight) does matter.. take it from someone who fitted 350 springs to a 200 years ago!!
I hate working on the front suspension even with spring compressors and the threaded rod through the middle you still need 2 trolly jacks to maneuver everything into position. I think the real problem is that with the wishbone still pivoted at the back but the front lowered the spring is bent in an arc shape. Not a problem for removing but when you come to put the new ones on the spring compressors obviously don't compress it in a nice arc shape so you have to offer up the wishbone in a more level way with 2 trolly jacks. You still need the spring compressors to compress the spring but it doesn't seem to be quite enough and the last bit of maneuvering always seems a bit dicey to me.
It's one reason I'd really like to move to a coil over setup. Adjustable ride height being the main other reason.
Engine size (or more specifically weight) does matter.. take it from someone who fitted 350 springs to a 200 years ago!!
I hate working on the front suspension even with spring compressors and the threaded rod through the middle you still need 2 trolly jacks to maneuver everything into position. I think the real problem is that with the wishbone still pivoted at the back but the front lowered the spring is bent in an arc shape. Not a problem for removing but when you come to put the new ones on the spring compressors obviously don't compress it in a nice arc shape so you have to offer up the wishbone in a more level way with 2 trolly jacks. You still need the spring compressors to compress the spring but it doesn't seem to be quite enough and the last bit of maneuvering always seems a bit dicey to me.
It's one reason I'd really like to move to a coil over setup. Adjustable ride height being the main other reason.
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