Removing my LS1 - should I do anything to it?
Discussion
Gentlemen
I'm planning to remove my engine soon. I know this is a very open ended question but thought I'd ask anyway - is it worth doing anything to it while it is out?
The reason for taking it out is that it needs balancing. When I bought the car it had an odd vibration at low revs. This can cause a loud knocking when pulling off as something bangs on the floor. It has gradually got worse so I suspect the engine mounts are getting tired as the big lump bangs around and rips them to pieces. So the seller told me he changed the crank and never got it balanced and therefore if I do this it should be fine....
The engine has had a cam and some mapping and made about 400 bhp.
The car was built at dynotorque and I was thinking of just giving it to them to fix but now I've decided I should tackle it myself, because that's what men do.
I'm planning to remove my engine soon. I know this is a very open ended question but thought I'd ask anyway - is it worth doing anything to it while it is out?
The reason for taking it out is that it needs balancing. When I bought the car it had an odd vibration at low revs. This can cause a loud knocking when pulling off as something bangs on the floor. It has gradually got worse so I suspect the engine mounts are getting tired as the big lump bangs around and rips them to pieces. So the seller told me he changed the crank and never got it balanced and therefore if I do this it should be fine....
The engine has had a cam and some mapping and made about 400 bhp.
The car was built at dynotorque and I was thinking of just giving it to them to fix but now I've decided I should tackle it myself, because that's what men do.
You're going to be doing a complete strip down and rebuild effectively. So might as well measure the crank, fit new shells both mains and big end. Rings I imagine should be ok, but depending on mileage and how keen you are a new set might be advisable.
New gaskets and seals all round, make sure you label everything up and keep the pistons in the same bores. Some people say its not essential, but in my opinion you'll be saving yourself agro should something not fit.
Most of all, best of luck with it, there's a lot of bits that go into these engines, so just make sure you've got enough room to keep it all organised.
New gaskets and seals all round, make sure you label everything up and keep the pistons in the same bores. Some people say its not essential, but in my opinion you'll be saving yourself agro should something not fit.
Most of all, best of luck with it, there's a lot of bits that go into these engines, so just make sure you've got enough room to keep it all organised.
It was an old engine which was imported from USA and then modified / tuned before it went into the car. Then the crank was changed because it spun a bearing. Quote from original build thread here - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Blair357ci said:
Had a bit of an incident.... All my own doing.
Lost quite a bit oil with a leaking crank seal and messing with oil pressure sensors but I overlooked topping it up or even checking it, what an idiot!!!! I wasn't sure if I should make it public or not but if my stupidity makes someone else check their oil then that can only be a good thing?
I pulled the sump off to check the damage shells one of which had spun damaging the crank, the damage is pretty minor considering how low on oil it was.
Engine out and Craig stripped it. He also managed to source a crank & shells for me overnight!!!
And back in
Lost quite a bit oil with a leaking crank seal and messing with oil pressure sensors but I overlooked topping it up or even checking it, what an idiot!!!! I wasn't sure if I should make it public or not but if my stupidity makes someone else check their oil then that can only be a good thing?
I pulled the sump off to check the damage shells one of which had spun damaging the crank, the damage is pretty minor considering how low on oil it was.
Engine out and Craig stripped it. He also managed to source a crank & shells for me overnight!!!
And back in
I'm amazed that anyone would change a crank without balancing it first!
I've just bought a crank and found out it's far more economical to get my old one polished up and refurbed than get this new one balanced.
Edit:
Just going to add that you will need to complete remove the entire rotating assembly to get it balanced properly. If you plan on changing rings etc, do this with the new set, along with shells etc. The balancing company (recommend Basset Down Balancing) will want everything you're using to set the Bob weights correctly.
I've just bought a crank and found out it's far more economical to get my old one polished up and refurbed than get this new one balanced.
Edit:
Just going to add that you will need to complete remove the entire rotating assembly to get it balanced properly. If you plan on changing rings etc, do this with the new set, along with shells etc. The balancing company (recommend Basset Down Balancing) will want everything you're using to set the Bob weights correctly.
Edited by Camaro on Tuesday 14th April 16:08
Camaro said:
I'm amazed that anyone would change a crank without balancing it first!
I've just bought a crank and found out it's far more economical to get my old one polished up and refurbed than get this new one balanced.
Edit:
Just going to add that you will need to complete remove the entire rotating assembly to get it balanced properly. If you plan on changing rings etc, do this with the new set, along with shells etc. The balancing company (recommend Basset Down Balancing) will want everything you're using to set the Bob weights correctly.
99% of the time you could swap them about all day long and you'd never feel any difference.I've just bought a crank and found out it's far more economical to get my old one polished up and refurbed than get this new one balanced.
Edit:
Just going to add that you will need to complete remove the entire rotating assembly to get it balanced properly. If you plan on changing rings etc, do this with the new set, along with shells etc. The balancing company (recommend Basset Down Balancing) will want everything you're using to set the Bob weights correctly.
Edited by Camaro on Tuesday 14th April 16:08
And if swapping an OEM crank, for another OEM crank of similar fitment they'll all be balanced pretty much the same anyway.
As for what should be done to it ?
bigger crank, rods, pistons, cam, heads etc...
stevieturbo said:
99% of the time you could swap them about all day long and you'd never feel any difference.
And if swapping an OEM crank, for another OEM crank of similar fitment they'll all be balanced pretty much the same anyway.
Well I am only taking it to bits to fix this vibration. So this news is a little worrying. Maybe I am in the 1%. Or Maybe I am wasting my time and money.And if swapping an OEM crank, for another OEM crank of similar fitment they'll all be balanced pretty much the same anyway.
MyM8V8 said:
ATM said:
Well I am only taking it to bits to fix this vibration. So this news is a little worrying. Maybe I am in the 1%. Or Maybe I am wasting my time and money.
Did you use the stock gearbox mount or made your own?What I do know is when I go over a reasonable bump at speed the gear lever moves an alarming amount. Almost 2 inches I'd say.
ATM said:
Gentlemen
The reason for taking it out is that it needs balancing. When I bought the car it had an odd vibration at low revs. This can cause a loud knocking when pulling off as something bangs on the floor. It has gradually got worse so I suspect the engine mounts are getting tired as the big lump bangs around and rips them to pieces. So the seller told me he changed the crank and never got it balanced and therefore if I do this it should be fine....
Given the symptoms, it just seems hard that it would be the engine ?The reason for taking it out is that it needs balancing. When I bought the car it had an odd vibration at low revs. This can cause a loud knocking when pulling off as something bangs on the floor. It has gradually got worse so I suspect the engine mounts are getting tired as the big lump bangs around and rips them to pieces. So the seller told me he changed the crank and never got it balanced and therefore if I do this it should be fine....
So are you saying when the car is stationary there is a vibration ? Does the vibration change with revs ?
What clutch/flywheel is fitted ?
I'd be surprised if this was caused by the crank
If the engine mounts are shot this alone could cause your issue but bearing in mind this is an engine swap car it could also be simply a characteristic that has occurred due to the way it's been adapted to fit
Could also be the front pulley or flywheel causing it
If the engine mounts are shot this alone could cause your issue but bearing in mind this is an engine swap car it could also be simply a characteristic that has occurred due to the way it's been adapted to fit
Could also be the front pulley or flywheel causing it
neiljohnson said:
I'd be surprised if this was caused by the crank
If the engine mounts are shot this alone could cause your issue but bearing in mind this is an engine swap car it could also be simply a characteristic that has occurred due to the way it's been adapted to fit
Could also be the front pulley or flywheel causing it
This could be true but IIRC the original owner did not have any vibration when he did the original conversion.... the vibrations started after they rebuilt the engine and given the parts that were swapped the presumption was made that the crank must be the source.If the engine mounts are shot this alone could cause your issue but bearing in mind this is an engine swap car it could also be simply a characteristic that has occurred due to the way it's been adapted to fit
Could also be the front pulley or flywheel causing it
I guess you might need to do some more homework before starting what could be a long process of elimination.
Janosh said:
neiljohnson said:
I'd be surprised if this was caused by the crank
If the engine mounts are shot this alone could cause your issue but bearing in mind this is an engine swap car it could also be simply a characteristic that has occurred due to the way it's been adapted to fit
Could also be the front pulley or flywheel causing it
This could be true but IIRC the original owner did not have any vibration when he did the original conversion.... the vibrations started after they rebuilt the engine and given the parts that were swapped the presumption was made that the crank must be the source.If the engine mounts are shot this alone could cause your issue but bearing in mind this is an engine swap car it could also be simply a characteristic that has occurred due to the way it's been adapted to fit
Could also be the front pulley or flywheel causing it
I guess you might need to do some more homework before starting what could be a long process of elimination.
The story was that when the crank was changed it seemed fine but then when the stiffer engine mounts were fitted it was noticed.
So if you just blip the throttle stationary you can feel a slight flutter around 1500 revs. As you pull off in 1st or 2nd if you use too much throttle the vibration gets into full swing and something solid starts banging on something else and it sounds brutal. I think it's gearbox banging on the floor. One of my friends thinks it's the prop. So I have to use very light throttle to get moving and avoid this banging - which is no fun. The banging does seem to get quicker with revs so it seems related. It only does it in 1st and 2nd.
I believe it's an LS7 clutch and flywheel.
I've had the car for about a year now. The seller told me if the crank is slightly out of balance then it won't get any worse. This banging when pulling off has definitely got worse. It's now almost impossible to pull off without some banging. So I presume that the engine mounts are softening from all this banging around.
I don't know anything about the gearbox mount except the pics above. The engine mounts are vibratechnics - I think they're called - I'll dig out a pic from the build thread when I get to work.
Have I explained this well enough - what do you guys think?
Edited by ATM on Wednesday 15th April 09:06
So you're basically saying the problem only starts when the car is moving, not stationary ?
As for people asking about solid mounts etc...I've had mine bolted into the car solid for over 10 years.
Really...it is no problem whatsoever. And nothing can move to bang off anything when driving. Win win.
As for people asking about solid mounts etc...I've had mine bolted into the car solid for over 10 years.
Really...it is no problem whatsoever. And nothing can move to bang off anything when driving. Win win.
stevieturbo said:
So you're basically saying the problem only starts when the car is moving, not stationary ?
As for people asking about solid mounts etc...I've had mine bolted into the car solid for over 10 years.
Really...it is no problem whatsoever. And nothing can move to bang off anything when driving. Win win.
The problem is the loud banging which I believe is caused by the engine being out of balance. You can feel some slight vibration just blipping the throttle but it is not a problem per se. More rigid mounting/s could fix this I guess.As for people asking about solid mounts etc...I've had mine bolted into the car solid for over 10 years.
Really...it is no problem whatsoever. And nothing can move to bang off anything when driving. Win win.
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