Top 5 mods from standard
Discussion
Recently bought an unloved '94 preserp 500, it's had all its services and repairs but has had a distinct lack of tlc and is totally unmessed with and is both untidy and filthy under the bonnet.
I was told to start with silicone hoses including the Afm hose & elbow etc.
I've been reading the wiki and faq's but there's so much to get through and difficult to judge which is more beneficial.
So starting with simple low cost alterations, what would you do to improve from factory standard?
Thanks in advance
I was told to start with silicone hoses including the Afm hose & elbow etc.
I've been reading the wiki and faq's but there's so much to get through and difficult to judge which is more beneficial.
So starting with simple low cost alterations, what would you do to improve from factory standard?
Thanks in advance
suspension I would say is worth looking at...... check to see if the old stuff is past it's best.... many a route to go down depending on what you want to use the car for..... anything from Bilisten refurb to Gaz (various types) to Nitrons ... something for all budgets and uses....
and then get it set-up properly ... camber, toe etc... best money I spent IMHO
and then get it set-up properly ... camber, toe etc... best money I spent IMHO
Coming from someone who has spent a lot of money on mods, in hindsight I would probably just keep it standard and spend the money on fuel. If you must modify as Hoover has mentioned suspension is probably the best place to start but just make sure you get it right, it is very easy to ruin a car with a bad suspension setup.
Listed of my mods + writeups for most when you click on the links if you get bored:
https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/upgrades/
https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/upgrades/
MPoxon said:
Listed of my mods + writeups for most when you click on the links if you get bored:
https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/upgrades/
Matthewhttps://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/upgrades/
Very impressive especially the power & torque graph
I'd be looking to improve reliability and driving pleasure
In no particular order and assuming the servicing has been done well
Refresh suspension bushes, shocks and springs if they were original and geometry setup
Outrigger clean/paint or replacement (if necessary)
Replace the coolant and petrol hoses
Get the immobiliser rewired to avoid the hot start issue and add remote boot release function
Professional clean and detail
In no particular order and assuming the servicing has been done well
Refresh suspension bushes, shocks and springs if they were original and geometry setup
Outrigger clean/paint or replacement (if necessary)
Replace the coolant and petrol hoses
Get the immobiliser rewired to avoid the hot start issue and add remote boot release function
Professional clean and detail
The induction is a good call. The long pipe from AFM down to the air filter can collapse and cause problems you can't find.
What are you doing about recommissioning?
Change the rubber hoses feeding the fuel rail. They perish and are a very very serious fire risk
Same with the fuel tank to pump hose. They sit on the rear wishbone and crack. They are reinforced which masks the problem so have a good look at it.
Change all the rubber brake lines and fit braided hoses.
The remote boot release from David Beer is a good cheap mod. It stops you burning out the solenoid by getting the dash button stuck without realising it. It also means you're pressing the dash buttons less, which reduces the stress on the button brackets behind the dash. And it makes your life a bloody site easier just getting into the boot.
A lights-on alarm would be good, though I've only ever seen 1 person document doing it. Failing that, find a way to remind you the lights are on. I nick Mrs Bs hair scrunchy and stick it on the handbrake lever when I put the lights on, then I remember when I stop.
Get a set of matching tyres all round. Handling can be atrocious if the tyres aren't right.
Change the battery. Knackered batteries cause no end of trouble.
Check and clean every earth point you can find, especially the one in the OS wheel arch and under the centre console passenger side. They cause no end of problems.
And fit another earth strap from the engine to chassis, they are notoriously crap.
The biggest piece of advice I have for you is shout on here if you have issues. It never ceases to amaze me what knowledge we have on here and the guys are great at offering help.
Good luck and have fun.
What are you doing about recommissioning?
Change the rubber hoses feeding the fuel rail. They perish and are a very very serious fire risk
Same with the fuel tank to pump hose. They sit on the rear wishbone and crack. They are reinforced which masks the problem so have a good look at it.
Change all the rubber brake lines and fit braided hoses.
The remote boot release from David Beer is a good cheap mod. It stops you burning out the solenoid by getting the dash button stuck without realising it. It also means you're pressing the dash buttons less, which reduces the stress on the button brackets behind the dash. And it makes your life a bloody site easier just getting into the boot.
A lights-on alarm would be good, though I've only ever seen 1 person document doing it. Failing that, find a way to remind you the lights are on. I nick Mrs Bs hair scrunchy and stick it on the handbrake lever when I put the lights on, then I remember when I stop.
Get a set of matching tyres all round. Handling can be atrocious if the tyres aren't right.
Change the battery. Knackered batteries cause no end of trouble.
Check and clean every earth point you can find, especially the one in the OS wheel arch and under the centre console passenger side. They cause no end of problems.
And fit another earth strap from the engine to chassis, they are notoriously crap.
The biggest piece of advice I have for you is shout on here if you have issues. It never ceases to amaze me what knowledge we have on here and the guys are great at offering help.
Good luck and have fun.
I can only add to what's been said. I've done loads of mods over the years, mostly documented on my profile or website. But new tyres, refresh the suspension and laser set-up, new battery, mod-wise boot opener and mod wise two stage cooling fan set-up. And then start on the performance mods 
I think some of the quoted modifications are maintenance items such as replacement of the rubber fuel lines - unless you opt for the braided stainless hoses which I was advised was not a good idea as you cannot check the condition of the rubber core.
I fitted the Mk4 Bilstein / Eibach suspension set up last week with new rubber bushes. The original items were tired. Again not a modification to my mind unless going for upgraded adjustable units. Poly bushes get mixed reviews and standard rubber were recommended (for non track day use). The new Bilstein units are very impressive for "standard" road use.
My modifications have been limited to;
The ACT induction hose with heat shielding sleeve and a K&N air filter.
A revised bonnet stay kit.
replacement oil filler and coolant caps (binned the slotted coolant cap)
ICE away from the original cassette unit.
The hood was replaced last year with a squared rear window as it folds down better, doesn't crease and, to my mind looks better.
Cosmetically, I have changed the front indicators and side repeaters to clear / smoked items with orange bulbs.
I have also changed the wipers to combined wiper / washer units. Get rid of the clip on washer nozzle and hoses
I have also fitted stainless heat shields to protect the alternator and belts
Occasionally I will leave the space saver wheel at home and carry tire foam / repair kit.
Carry a fire extinguisher ! just in case.
The perishing rubber engine mounts were replaced with rubber but caged.
Differential bushes replaced - poly bushes this time - a time consuming job!
The later rear wishbone bush mod was fitted to stop lateral movement.
Leven stainless front drop bar links
A 3/4 size front number plate to aide cooling
Illuminated fuses which light up when blown - its dark and cramped enough in the footwell plus 125 amp fuses and new holders under the car
Magnecor 8 mm HT leads - (maintenance?)
Modifications I would consider
Upgrading to the later SE spec Corrado wing mirror units. The CX based ones vibrate badly at high speed and become a blur
The boot release kit - however, I can't wire a household plug.
16 inch front Estorils - but only if 15 inch performance tyres become difficult to source
Maybe Cerbera seats as per the SE Griff - the standard seats are not particularly comfortable for (my) back support.
Electronic glove book lock - when the current standard clip breaks.
7 inch headlight upgrade .. but not twin units
Modifications NOT to consider
The ugly SE spec rear lights
Unintentional modifications - the repeated loss of the front spoiler. It does help cool the car and maybe stability at very illegal speeds.
TJS
I fitted the Mk4 Bilstein / Eibach suspension set up last week with new rubber bushes. The original items were tired. Again not a modification to my mind unless going for upgraded adjustable units. Poly bushes get mixed reviews and standard rubber were recommended (for non track day use). The new Bilstein units are very impressive for "standard" road use.
My modifications have been limited to;
The ACT induction hose with heat shielding sleeve and a K&N air filter.
A revised bonnet stay kit.
replacement oil filler and coolant caps (binned the slotted coolant cap)
ICE away from the original cassette unit.
The hood was replaced last year with a squared rear window as it folds down better, doesn't crease and, to my mind looks better.
Cosmetically, I have changed the front indicators and side repeaters to clear / smoked items with orange bulbs.
I have also changed the wipers to combined wiper / washer units. Get rid of the clip on washer nozzle and hoses
I have also fitted stainless heat shields to protect the alternator and belts
Occasionally I will leave the space saver wheel at home and carry tire foam / repair kit.
Carry a fire extinguisher ! just in case.
The perishing rubber engine mounts were replaced with rubber but caged.
Differential bushes replaced - poly bushes this time - a time consuming job!
The later rear wishbone bush mod was fitted to stop lateral movement.
Leven stainless front drop bar links
A 3/4 size front number plate to aide cooling
Illuminated fuses which light up when blown - its dark and cramped enough in the footwell plus 125 amp fuses and new holders under the car
Magnecor 8 mm HT leads - (maintenance?)
Modifications I would consider
Upgrading to the later SE spec Corrado wing mirror units. The CX based ones vibrate badly at high speed and become a blur
The boot release kit - however, I can't wire a household plug.
16 inch front Estorils - but only if 15 inch performance tyres become difficult to source
Maybe Cerbera seats as per the SE Griff - the standard seats are not particularly comfortable for (my) back support.
Electronic glove book lock - when the current standard clip breaks.
7 inch headlight upgrade .. but not twin units
Modifications NOT to consider
The ugly SE spec rear lights
Unintentional modifications - the repeated loss of the front spoiler. It does help cool the car and maybe stability at very illegal speeds.
TJS
TJS10 said:
Leven stainless front drop bar links
Illuminated fuses which light up when blown - its dark and cramped enough in the footwell plus 125 amp fuses and new holders under the car
These are both great suggestions I'd forgotten about.Illuminated fuses which light up when blown - its dark and cramped enough in the footwell plus 125 amp fuses and new holders under the car
One tip on the fuses. Get yourself the Steve Heath Griffith and Chimaera manual aka The Bible and when you've got one find the fuseboard which matches your layout and mark it in the manual - it may mean you have to pull a few fuses to identify their function. You should also copy it/laminate it and put it under the passenger footwell mat.
Here's my top 5-
1. Suspension- upgraded springs (450f/400r) & shocks (you get what you pay for...)
2. Brakes- mintex 1144 pads (work well from cold & less prone to fade)
3. Geo- Griffiths do handle very well if this is done
4. Radiator & associated hoses- cooling isn't the strongest so a good alloy rad helps out + replaced hoses.
5. Driver training to take advantage of all the above (http://www.ridedrive.co.uk/ course is pretty good)
1. Suspension- upgraded springs (450f/400r) & shocks (you get what you pay for...)
2. Brakes- mintex 1144 pads (work well from cold & less prone to fade)
3. Geo- Griffiths do handle very well if this is done
4. Radiator & associated hoses- cooling isn't the strongest so a good alloy rad helps out + replaced hoses.
5. Driver training to take advantage of all the above (http://www.ridedrive.co.uk/ course is pretty good)
Amazing response fellas!
So much for loss if interest in the Griff forum.
Thanks for all of your replies I'm going to go through this a bit at a time please don't be offended if I don't resopnd directly to each post, the detail would be lost if I replied to all of it at once.
I've got forever to do this as I think this one's a keeper.
Just a couple of things to start;
The Air filter is like a giant foam loofa (pipercross?) it was cacked solid but cleaned up ok, will a K&N improve things?
There is only a letterbox sized hole up front for it to breath cold air and so will also use engine bay hot air even with the sheild thing in place.
How much merit is there in resiting the filter to the inner wing near the headlamp pod for cold air and also leaving the letterbox hole open for engine bay airflow?
So much for loss if interest in the Griff forum.
Thanks for all of your replies I'm going to go through this a bit at a time please don't be offended if I don't resopnd directly to each post, the detail would be lost if I replied to all of it at once.
I've got forever to do this as I think this one's a keeper.
Just a couple of things to start;
The Air filter is like a giant foam loofa (pipercross?) it was cacked solid but cleaned up ok, will a K&N improve things?
There is only a letterbox sized hole up front for it to breath cold air and so will also use engine bay hot air even with the sheild thing in place.
How much merit is there in resiting the filter to the inner wing near the headlamp pod for cold air and also leaving the letterbox hole open for engine bay airflow?
Alan461 said:
How much merit is there in resiting the filter to the inner wing near the headlamp pod for cold air and also leaving the letterbox hole open for engine bay airflow?
Whilst I can't answer your specific question about air to the filter, the letter box is not the only way air gets to the rad because there's a big gap under the nose too. Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff