Any spare Laptops?

[Demondad]

My ol Tosh laptop has given up just when I need it most. Engine gone a bit hesitant around 2-3k revs. Just wondering if anyone has a spare old laptop that will run the ecu software, will pay and collect around the N Hampshire area.

[waveydavey1000]

No laptop I'm afraid but my 4.2 has the same symptoms...a bit fluttery up to 4k then clears itself. Booked in at Selby TVR for sorting. Will post on here the problem when done

[aide]

Have you considered buying an Android instead?

[caduceus]

aide said:

Have you considered buying an Android instead?

[Demondad]

aide said:

Have you considered buying an Android instead?

Yeah maybe, I' guess I could keep it wired up permanent then? Which type do you recommend? I won't be using it as a phone as I'm used to the iPhone.

[LooneyTunes]

Not tried the TVR software on it but I have an old Toughbook as my garage PC and has served me well when all that's needed is basic software + serial port.

There are a load of Toughbooks going on ebay at present (some as low as £30 with no bids and just a couple of hours to go).

[EvoOlli]

You could use my software which runs on newer Computers without problems:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[Demondad]

EvoOlli said:

You could use my software which runs on newer Computers without problems:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Looking at a few laptops on eBay, and I'll give the new software a go when I get one. Just one question, what version of Windows would be best to run the newer software? Thanks all for the advice!

[ukkid35]

Or you could use Aide's software with a Nexus or similar. I got a used Nexus 7 off eBay for £57, unfortunately you also need Aide's recommended cable which is a rather extortionate £12.

[EvoOlli]

Demondad said:

Looking at a few laptops on eBay, and I'll give the new software a go when I get one. Just one question, what version of Windows would be best to run the newer software? Thanks all for the advice!

All newer Windows version should be fine. Up to Windows 8 and both 32bit and 64bit version. It should work with most of the Serial/USB Adaptors, but FTDI or Prolific are preferable, which are the chipsets in nearly all of the adaptors available.

[waveydavey1000]

Suceessfully downloaded the new software on my laptop using the USB port. The only issue I could see was the dThrottle occasionly went to "No Control"

What is this?

[Demondad]

EvoOlli said:

All newer Windows version should be fine. Up to Windows 8 and both 32bit and 64bit version. It should work with most of the Serial/USB Adaptors, but FTDI or Prolific are preferable, which are the chipsets in nearly all of the adaptors available.

Success! Father in law gave me an old Dell kicking round in his workshop. Downloaded your software and all working good. Will connect up to car tmoro and hopefully find the problem. Thanks EvoOlli!

[Demondad]

So all connected up to Cerb and no faults, apart from crank wiring and crank sensor AFR in red. Any idea what that means?

[waveydavey1000]

This is a sensor that looks at the crankshaft position and feeds its info into the ECU. It uses the position to tell the ECU when to inject fuel into the correct cylinder. A vital piece of equipment and needs to be replaced.
This will probably clear the wiring fault as well, and can be bought from Racetech with next day delivery.

[Supateg]

I'm sure I've read somewhere as part of routine maintenance it should be removed an debris cleaned (magnet attracts metal)
It is a ford part and is listed above in alt parts section. Easy cheaply

[Demondad]

Supateg said:

I'm sure I've read somewhere as part of routine maintenance it should be removed an debris cleaned (magnet attracts metal)
It is a ford part and is listed above in alt parts section. Easy cheaply

Where abouts is it located?

[Supateg]

Drivers side, bell housing half way up. Wiring to it will be in a heat sleeve, tie wrapped to dipstick tube (later model 1999) one bolt holding sensor in.

[Supateg]

Btw from the software help file....

CRANK WIRING FAULT
This fault is shown if the crankshaft speed sensor is incorrectly wired up. Check polarity and reconnect as shown in wiring diagram (black to pin 1 on sensor and to pin 2 on ECU, white to pin 2 on sensor and to pin 12 on ECU)
CRANK SENSOR
This fault is shown if the crank sensor signal is poor. If it occurs the MIL lamp will NOT be turned on. It may however flash as a poor signal is detected depending on the severity of the fault.
Crank Sensor fault can be caused by
Debris on end of crank sensor (removes and cleans)
Water ingress intro sensor connector or wiring, Corrosion on sensor terminals (clean or replace connector terminals using only gold plated terminals)
Damaged trigger wheel on flywheel
Damaged crank sensor wiring (replace ONLY WITH SPECIAL CRANK SENSOR WIRING)

[Demondad]

Supateg said:

Btw from the software help file....

CRANK WIRING FAULT
This fault is shown if the crankshaft speed sensor is incorrectly wired up. Check polarity and reconnect as shown in wiring diagram (black to pin 1 on sensor and to pin 2 on ECU, white to pin 2 on sensor and to pin 12 on ECU)
CRANK SENSOR
This fault is shown if the crank sensor signal is poor. If it occurs the MIL lamp will NOT be turned on. It may however flash as a poor signal is detected depending on the severity of the fault.
Crank Sensor fault can be caused by
Debris on end of crank sensor (removes and cleans)
Water ingress intro sensor connector or wiring, Corrosion on sensor terminals (clean or replace connector terminals using only gold plated terminals)
Damaged trigger wheel on flywheel
Damaged crank sensor wiring (replace ONLY WITH SPECIAL CRANK SENSOR WIRING)

Just had clutch replaced so it may well be something to do with this kind of damage. Thanks for the info. Is the helpfile included in the newer version of the software anywhere? I think I'll download the old one as I know this version does.

[Jabbah]

Demondad said:

So all connected up to Cerb and no faults, apart from crank wiring and crank sensor AFR in red. Any idea what that means?

They are separate items. Your crank sensor and wiring are ok, your AFRs are bad. The garage that changed your clutch connected your lambda sensors back up the wrong way. Fairly easy job to swap them back over if you have skinny arms. Once done use the software to clear the adaptives and everything will be fine. (This is all assuming you are the same guy on FB where the screenshots are...)