Oh Cock - H/G failure!
Discussion
Some of you may have seen my other recent topics on my troubles with bleeding the cooling system after fitting a new Alu rad.
Had a quick chat with Dan @ TaylorTVR yesterday (always helpful as ever) and we both agreed that either there was a big airlock, one of the rad fans wasn't working or it must be h/g failure. As the engine was exhibiting none of the signs of h/g failure I was quite hopeful that I could give the system a real good bleed and that would be the end of my troubles.
Unfortunately not. Topped up with coolant from Halfords and set about topping up the system today. This time I filled up the radiator directly through the bleed bolt and the coolant rails directly through the bleed taps (took them off) to ensure only minimal air was left. It took all 10 litres to fill up!!
So that wasn't a good sign.
The other thing Dan mentioned was to use a long zip-tie and touch each exhaust manifold branch close to where it mates with the head. If any ports are running cold then the zip-tie won't start to melt and it indicates possible h/g failure on that pot. Well, pistons 1 and 3 were running cold and after running the car for a few minutes (coolant temp 40-45*), sure enough loads of coolant started to erupt out of the tank again. On closer inspection of that corner of the engine I'm pretty sure I can see coolant weeping out of the head bolt, plus I can hear sizzling from the exhaust port.
I think the game is up!
So I currently have two options:
1) Try and sell, maybe someone wants a bit of a project?
2) Lay the car up for many, many months - I've not got the time nor money (nor tools) to take the engine out and if I'm going to take the engine out I want to be able to rebuild it, and if I'm going to do that I might as well sort out the chassis at the same time too!
Had a quick chat with Dan @ TaylorTVR yesterday (always helpful as ever) and we both agreed that either there was a big airlock, one of the rad fans wasn't working or it must be h/g failure. As the engine was exhibiting none of the signs of h/g failure I was quite hopeful that I could give the system a real good bleed and that would be the end of my troubles.
Unfortunately not. Topped up with coolant from Halfords and set about topping up the system today. This time I filled up the radiator directly through the bleed bolt and the coolant rails directly through the bleed taps (took them off) to ensure only minimal air was left. It took all 10 litres to fill up!!
So that wasn't a good sign.
The other thing Dan mentioned was to use a long zip-tie and touch each exhaust manifold branch close to where it mates with the head. If any ports are running cold then the zip-tie won't start to melt and it indicates possible h/g failure on that pot. Well, pistons 1 and 3 were running cold and after running the car for a few minutes (coolant temp 40-45*), sure enough loads of coolant started to erupt out of the tank again. On closer inspection of that corner of the engine I'm pretty sure I can see coolant weeping out of the head bolt, plus I can hear sizzling from the exhaust port.
I think the game is up!
So I currently have two options:
1) Try and sell, maybe someone wants a bit of a project?
2) Lay the car up for many, many months - I've not got the time nor money (nor tools) to take the engine out and if I'm going to take the engine out I want to be able to rebuild it, and if I'm going to do that I might as well sort out the chassis at the same time too!
I'd get an HC sniffer on the header tank first before condemning it.
You'll also need to check that you have no leaks whatsoever. Any loss of cooling system pressure will cause localised boiling in the cylinder heads when at fan operating temperatures and push coolant out.
Have you checked your header tank cap as well? They aren't the most robust things.
You'll also need to check that you have no leaks whatsoever. Any loss of cooling system pressure will cause localised boiling in the cylinder heads when at fan operating temperatures and push coolant out.
Have you checked your header tank cap as well? They aren't the most robust things.
I can't imagine that it is just problems with the cooling system. To summarise:
- It took an additional 9-10 litres of coolant to fill up after my previous drive home.
- Ports 1 & 3 were definitely running cooler
- I could hear sizzling in exhaust port 1.
- I've used both the old tank cap, and a new one and with coolant tank topped up (but not too full) I got LOTS of coolant exiting the tank at temps well below 50* (taken from the diagnostic software).
ridds said:
I'd get an HC sniffer on the header tank first before condemning it.
You'll also need to check that you have no leaks whatsoever. Any loss of cooling system pressure will cause localised boiling in the cylinder heads when at fan operating temperatures and push coolant out.
Have you checked your header tank cap as well? They aren't the most robust things.
Check all of this before condemning the head gaskets.You'll also need to check that you have no leaks whatsoever. Any loss of cooling system pressure will cause localised boiling in the cylinder heads when at fan operating temperatures and push coolant out.
Have you checked your header tank cap as well? They aren't the most robust things.
Mine leaked up the bolts for 3 years before I did any thing about it, and even then I just decided it was time to get it done not because it had actually failed to a point of causing a problem. It is just an early sign of a pending failure but does not mean it is leaking into a bore yet.
Would it be possible to pressure test the cooling system to about 20 psi? if you could get a schroeder valve fitted inplace of one of the bleed valves on the manafolds on either side of the engine, this way you could test the relief pressure of the expansion tank cap, spray around the suspect area's with soapy water and stick a couple of those thin rubber gloves over the exhaust pipes. Would have to be done when the engine was cold at a static temperature and not cooling though, to get an accurate indication. Then if the pressure drops its just a case of finding the leak with the soapy water or watching for a couple of giant hands appear out of the back of the car!
You would have to be careful not to over pressurise the system though otherwise you may find yourself blowing more gaskets.
Sounds good in theory..... Anyone know if this shouldn't be done?
You would have to be careful not to over pressurise the system though otherwise you may find yourself blowing more gaskets.
Sounds good in theory..... Anyone know if this shouldn't be done?
ridds said:
gruffalo said:
It all went tits up after you changed you rad, I would look there first, could be partially blocked by dwarf from the manufacturing process or something.
I would also start putting money aside for a head gasket job in the next few years.
dwarf in the rad. I would also start putting money aside for a head gasket job in the next few years.
Jubag said:
Permission to be a complete 
? Would a drop of K-Seal be appropriate?
I only said pye key!
I'd say in your case , due to the amount of coolant lost, it might not help.? Would a drop of K-Seal be appropriate?I only said pye key!
But, +1 for K-Seal.
One of my head studs had a weep at the washer, it's pretty common, it was recommended by two indies.
It solved the problem.
http://www.kseal.com/uk/?gclid=CODu__CowcUCFYbItAo...
I've used it twice, once in a charge cooler system (had to boil the water on a camp stove and then pump into the car) and I run it in the Cerb just in case, as my car was a bit of an unknown when I bought it.
I've used it twice, once in a charge cooler system (had to boil the water on a camp stove and then pump into the car) and I run it in the Cerb just in case, as my car was a bit of an unknown when I bought it.
Jubag said:
http://www.kseal.com/uk/?gclid=CODu__CowcUCFYbItAo...
I've used it twice, once in a charge cooler system (had to boil the water on a camp stove and then pump into the car) and I run it in the Cerb just in case, as my car was a bit of an unknown when I bought it.
What's the thinking on this for minor coolant loss?I've used it twice, once in a charge cooler system (had to boil the water on a camp stove and then pump into the car) and I run it in the Cerb just in case, as my car was a bit of an unknown when I bought it.
Does it gunge up the collant system rather than repair?
Or is it as magic as their website claims?
I've replaced the coolant pipes with silicon hoses, but am getting minor coolant loss from somewhere....
mikeinsheffield said:
What's the thinking on this for minor coolant loss?
Does it gunge up the collant system rather than repair?
Or is it as magic as their website claims?
I've replaced the coolant pipes with silicon hoses, but am getting minor coolant loss from somewhere....
I found it to be very good indeed. It won't gunge the system up. I run it in the cerbera if it needs it or not. I would say, if you have just changed all the pipes on the cooling system, just double check you have tightened all the jubley clips up nice. I did the same, but found one or two not tight enough.Does it gunge up the collant system rather than repair?
Or is it as magic as their website claims?
I've replaced the coolant pipes with silicon hoses, but am getting minor coolant loss from somewhere....
The long-awaited, eagerly-anticipated results of the compression test:
1 - 120 PSI
3 - 70 PSI
5 - 120 PSI
2 - 140 PSI
4 - 105 PSI
6 - 120 PSI
Surprised cylinder 1 was fine, but cylinder 3 definitely points to something being up which could be a factor in the coolant problems.
Though, from what I've seen of other compression test results, none of those values are exactly amazing!
1 - 120 PSI
3 - 70 PSI
5 - 120 PSI
2 - 140 PSI
4 - 105 PSI
6 - 120 PSI
Surprised cylinder 1 was fine, but cylinder 3 definitely points to something being up which could be a factor in the coolant problems.
Though, from what I've seen of other compression test results, none of those values are exactly amazing!
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