V8 Vantage engine noise
Discussion
Hi, new to this forum, drive a 2007 Black V8 Vantage.
I have noticed a noise over the past month coming from the engine, like a ticking noise, it is coming from lower down of the engine bay, making the car sound a little bit like a diesel. Not massively but I can hear it when the car is somewhere that echo's the sound.
So I check the Oil and it was low, so topped it up with 10w/60 but the noise still persists
Just wanted to see if anyone has had similar issue and how it was resolved?
I have noticed a noise over the past month coming from the engine, like a ticking noise, it is coming from lower down of the engine bay, making the car sound a little bit like a diesel. Not massively but I can hear it when the car is somewhere that echo's the sound.
So I check the Oil and it was low, so topped it up with 10w/60 but the noise still persists
Just wanted to see if anyone has had similar issue and how it was resolved?
We've heard about this before, I don't know what the answer is, for me I'd take it to my local specialist, but heres a saga you may be interested to read.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=122...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=122...
That's a long thread - I haven't been through it, but it seems to be about V12 ticking noises.
The V12 is quite different from the V8.
There are quite a few things that can tick away; injectors, tappets, pumps, etc.
Is it a new noise, or just haven't noticed it much before.
Oil - do you know how to check properly?
How much oil did you need to add? The 'reserve' in the swirl pot is pretty large.
You can go a long way to finding there noises coming from, using a metal (or hard plastic) rod - push one end to your ear (I put it on the bone just forward of my earhole) and then you can touch it to various parts of the engine and it will clarify where mechanical noises are coming from.
Be careful where you stick the rod on a running engine - remember the fan can come on at any time, so also keep anything dangly clear (ties, etc.).
If you record the noise on a 'phone - try moving the phone around the engine area - you may hear the sound get softer/louder/or change, when you listen to the playback.
It may be worth checking the Jag forums, as the base engine and ancillaries are related.
Alternatively, there is at least one specialist and/or dealer in the Essex area, who may have a look for you for free - or a nominal charge.
Cheers - Simon
The V12 is quite different from the V8.
There are quite a few things that can tick away; injectors, tappets, pumps, etc.
Is it a new noise, or just haven't noticed it much before.
Oil - do you know how to check properly?
How much oil did you need to add? The 'reserve' in the swirl pot is pretty large.
You can go a long way to finding there noises coming from, using a metal (or hard plastic) rod - push one end to your ear (I put it on the bone just forward of my earhole) and then you can touch it to various parts of the engine and it will clarify where mechanical noises are coming from.
Be careful where you stick the rod on a running engine - remember the fan can come on at any time, so also keep anything dangly clear (ties, etc.).
If you record the noise on a 'phone - try moving the phone around the engine area - you may hear the sound get softer/louder/or change, when you listen to the playback.
It may be worth checking the Jag forums, as the base engine and ancillaries are related.
Alternatively, there is at least one specialist and/or dealer in the Essex area, who may have a look for you for free - or a nominal charge.
Cheers - Simon
The crakcase venting valve is known to fail and makes a "popping" noise. That could account for the noise and oil use. The offending valve is to the right/lower of the air intake /butterfly body.
Ours was replaced with a new one, which was failing within a month. Crap quality component it would seem.
Whatever, don't take forum advice other than to get it checked.
Ours was replaced with a new one, which was failing within a month. Crap quality component it would seem.
Whatever, don't take forum advice other than to get it checked.
mikey k said:
Are you certain it is not the injectors
I was made aware of an issue this week on 4.7's where a couple of the injectors fail open, flooding their cylinders and hydro locking the engine on start up
Either way if its a new noise I'd get it checked over ASAP
Ouch. I would expect that injectors should fail safe and starve the engine rather than flood it. Is this another case of crappy components sourced by tier one suppliers in the UK being forced further afield to get parts at the cost point rather than the quality point? Like the crappy throttle??I was made aware of an issue this week on 4.7's where a couple of the injectors fail open, flooding their cylinders and hydro locking the engine on start up
Either way if its a new noise I'd get it checked over ASAP
The V8 does have a known, occasional issue that can lead to a tapping noise that gets slowly louder and more annoying.
As those more familiar with the engine than me will already know, to open/close the valves, the cam lobes act on inverted buckets that sit below the cams and directly on top of the valve stems. The buckets are available with tops of varying thickness to set the valve lash adjustment (tappet gaps). The problem arises when the case-hardening of the metal, on the underside on one more bucket tops (where they sit on the top of the valve stems) fails. This allows the valve stem to start to 'burrow' into the bucket top by a few thousandths of an inch, increasing the tappet gap and causing the tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, that can drive a saint nuts! The more burrowing the valve stem does, the louder and more annoying the tap.
The cure is, of course, to replace the defective buckets with new ones of the correct thickness and the problem is permanently gone (unless another sub-standard bucket is installed)! As with so many jobs on cars, the parts (the replacement buckets) are cheap. But.... getting to the buckets is another matter altogether!
If it's exhaust buckets that have worn (apparently it is, 95% of the time) you're in luck - it's approx a 5 hour job to dis-assemble everything required for access, measure everything, remove the exhaust cam, replace the offending buckets, then re-measure and re-assemble everything. If it's inlet buckets, the engine has to come out as the inlet cams can't be removed with the engine in-situ. Then it gets really damned expensive!
As those more familiar with the engine than me will already know, to open/close the valves, the cam lobes act on inverted buckets that sit below the cams and directly on top of the valve stems. The buckets are available with tops of varying thickness to set the valve lash adjustment (tappet gaps). The problem arises when the case-hardening of the metal, on the underside on one more bucket tops (where they sit on the top of the valve stems) fails. This allows the valve stem to start to 'burrow' into the bucket top by a few thousandths of an inch, increasing the tappet gap and causing the tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, that can drive a saint nuts! The more burrowing the valve stem does, the louder and more annoying the tap.
The cure is, of course, to replace the defective buckets with new ones of the correct thickness and the problem is permanently gone (unless another sub-standard bucket is installed)! As with so many jobs on cars, the parts (the replacement buckets) are cheap. But.... getting to the buckets is another matter altogether!
If it's exhaust buckets that have worn (apparently it is, 95% of the time) you're in luck - it's approx a 5 hour job to dis-assemble everything required for access, measure everything, remove the exhaust cam, replace the offending buckets, then re-measure and re-assemble everything. If it's inlet buckets, the engine has to come out as the inlet cams can't be removed with the engine in-situ. Then it gets really damned expensive!
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