Radiator upgrades?
Discussion
Just wondering if anyone had any ideas/opinions on an upgrade for a Cerbie rad...sure I read about it in Sprint recently (within the last 12 months!)to help combat overheating probs.I do recall a violent attack to the front with a jig-saw to aid increased airflow but I think a new rad. would be a lesser impact? Just can't find that issue. Guide price would also be good
Need to know what to put on the shopping list and in what order...Light upgrade, ECU remap, new radiator??? 
Need to know what to put on the shopping list and in what order...Light upgrade, ECU remap, new radiator??? 
From a popular TVR independant's web site....
"Uprated Radiator
Joospeed now offers an uprated radiator for Chimaera and Griffith owners to Cerbera specification, and Cerbera owners upgraded to higher fin specification. Your exisitng radiator is rebuilt using a higher quality matrix with extra core (chimaera and griffith) and changed fin pitch to keep your car running cooler. This radiator is especially suitable for owners doing track days and continental touring or Cerbera owners where in hot weather the temperature increase of the harder-worked coolant can actually cause the ecu to retard ignition timing so costing you real-world power. Remember the std TVR radiator is basically a standard Land Rover matrix with the inlet and outlet pipes changed and is only just up to the job when brand new... once the radiator has started to deteriorate then no amount of otter swicth by passing and half speed fan units will stop it overheating - tackle the cause not the symptom with a proper uprated radiator for your car. Prices from 350-00 pounds plus vat (411.25 incl) fitted (Chimaera) including new thermostast and fan control otter switch for complete peace of mind"
"Uprated Radiator
Joospeed now offers an uprated radiator for Chimaera and Griffith owners to Cerbera specification, and Cerbera owners upgraded to higher fin specification. Your exisitng radiator is rebuilt using a higher quality matrix with extra core (chimaera and griffith) and changed fin pitch to keep your car running cooler. This radiator is especially suitable for owners doing track days and continental touring or Cerbera owners where in hot weather the temperature increase of the harder-worked coolant can actually cause the ecu to retard ignition timing so costing you real-world power. Remember the std TVR radiator is basically a standard Land Rover matrix with the inlet and outlet pipes changed and is only just up to the job when brand new... once the radiator has started to deteriorate then no amount of otter swicth by passing and half speed fan units will stop it overheating - tackle the cause not the symptom with a proper uprated radiator for your car. Prices from 350-00 pounds plus vat (411.25 incl) fitted (Chimaera) including new thermostast and fan control otter switch for complete peace of mind"
_DeeJay_ said:Thanks for that...sounds very similar to what I read...i.e Land Rover rad etc. I think that may well be the first to be on the list???
From a popular TVR independant's web site....
"Uprated Radiator
Joospeed now offers an uprated radiator for Chimaera and Griffith owners to Cerbera specification, and Cerbera owners upgraded to higher fin specification. Your exisitng radiator is rebuilt using a higher quality matrix with extra core (chimaera and griffith) and changed fin pitch to keep your car running cooler. This radiator is especially suitable for owners doing track days and continental touring or Cerbera owners where in hot weather the temperature increase of the harder-worked coolant can actually cause the ecu to retard ignition timing so costing you real-world power. Remember the std TVR radiator is basically a standard Land Rover matrix with the inlet and outlet pipes changed and is only just up to the job when brand new... once the radiator has started to deteriorate then no amount of otter swicth by passing and half speed fan units will stop it overheating - tackle the cause not the symptom with a proper uprated radiator for your car. Prices from 350-00 pounds plus vat (411.25 incl) fitted (Chimaera) including new thermostast and fan control otter switch for complete peace of mind"
Since I rerouted my pipe to the temp gauge I haven't had any issues with what I thought was overheating. The pipe was tie wrapped to the water pipes under the driver side airbox and was inflating the temp by about 12 degrees.
Since I changed it the temp hasn't gone over about 98 degrees which is just after when the second fan kicks in.
Since I changed it the temp hasn't gone over about 98 degrees which is just after when the second fan kicks in.
You can test this youself without even opening your bonnet.
I believe the fans come in at 95 and 100, although don't have my manual with me so can't check but some other nice Ph'r might.
Take your car for a nice drive. come back and sit on your driveway. Watch your temp guage and if the fan comes on at 95 your gauge is reading true, and don't reroute anything.
(works on the principal that the temp to the ECU is independant, in control of the fans and far more accurate than the dash capillary one. So use it to calibrate the other)
I believe the fans come in at 95 and 100, although don't have my manual with me so can't check but some other nice Ph'r might.
Take your car for a nice drive. come back and sit on your driveway. Watch your temp guage and if the fan comes on at 95 your gauge is reading true, and don't reroute anything.
(works on the principal that the temp to the ECU is independant, in control of the fans and far more accurate than the dash capillary one. So use it to calibrate the other)
Julian64 said:
You can test this youself without even opening your bonnet.
I believe the fans come in at 95 and 100, although don't have my manual with me so can't check but some other nice Ph'r might.
Take your car for a nice drive. come back and sit on your driveway. Watch your temp guage and if the fan comes on at 95 your gauge is reading true, and don't reroute anything.
(works on the principal that the temp to the ECU is independant, in control of the fans and far more accurate than the dash capillary one. So use it to calibrate the other)
If you have the emerald ecu upgrade, you can adjust the temperatures the fans cut in via the software/laptop yourself!

My Cerb has an alloy radiator, and as yet it hasn't over heated (Wood. Touch wood..... quick, someone find me some wood!)
I think it was done by some racing company over towards Silverstone. Currently it gets to the point where both fans kick in, and the rising temperature jut hits a brick wall and goes no further - very efficient.
I think it was done by some racing company over towards Silverstone. Currently it gets to the point where both fans kick in, and the rising temperature jut hits a brick wall and goes no further - very efficient.
ASAIK the 1st fan comes on at 92C, 2nd at 94C.. They then turn off at 88C. I was worried about my temp guage reading 105C when 1st fan comes on. After checking ECU with laptop, my fans come on and switch off at the correct temps!!
Don't trust your coolant temp guage.
I advise you check yours, I expect most Cerbs temp guages will give different reading to ECU.
Budaholic
Don't trust your coolant temp guage.
I advise you check yours, I expect most Cerbs temp guages will give different reading to ECU.
Budaholic
trooperiziz said:
Unless you are planning to track your car and keep it at 6000rpm constantly, I can't see why you should have a need for a uprated radiator? If you have overheating problems, then you should get them sorted out before you think about upgrading anything.
it's normally the radiator that's the cause of the overheating .. if you've got to replace it anyway because of leaks / silting etc then it makes sense to upgrade it (the upgrades are cheaper than the OE TVR stuff) and delay the onset of it again.
you're right in that if yuor car is behaving itself it's not worth upgrading for the sake of it.
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