Sram 1x for the road....
Discussion
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/ne...
First victory for the Sram singel chainring set up, albeit in a triathlon whom we all know are not real cyclists but still, an interesting development. With a wide block at the back now possible and a biggest sprocket of 36T easily available, most people in the UK should be able to run something like a 46T ring with a 11-36 cassette and not have a problem with ratios. Not sure what the BCD is though but I'm keen and may well build up the next bike using a 1x set up for the fun of it.
46/36 gives me 1:1.27 whilst my current 39/28 gives me 1:1.39 even a compact chainset gives me 1:1.21
First victory for the Sram singel chainring set up, albeit in a triathlon whom we all know are not real cyclists but still, an interesting development. With a wide block at the back now possible and a biggest sprocket of 36T easily available, most people in the UK should be able to run something like a 46T ring with a 11-36 cassette and not have a problem with ratios. Not sure what the BCD is though but I'm keen and may well build up the next bike using a 1x set up for the fun of it.
46/36 gives me 1:1.27 whilst my current 39/28 gives me 1:1.39 even a compact chainset gives me 1:1.21
Agree with the above, big gaps drive me nuts between gears, as I like very subtle gear differences to maintain good cadence. For other people it doesn't bother them.
I can see it being good for commuting, I only have a 39 11-25 8 speed on my MTB commuter. But lots of commuters bikes can be had with a one front ring setup
I can see it being good for commuting, I only have a 39 11-25 8 speed on my MTB commuter. But lots of commuters bikes can be had with a one front ring setup
I don't get 1 x10/11 set ups. on a mountain bike, most seem to use between a 32-36 front chainring which it Ok for climbing, although with a 36 rear you've still got big jumps in gears and a 36/11 gear is way too short for flat or down hill work ( I have tried it by the way) On a road bike the jump in gears for climbing would just be horrible. My super X came with SRAM 1 X11, it actually worked fine for x racing and a 46 front with 11-27 cassette meant you could get around cross tracks, but on the road it was no good, big hills were very tough on 46/27 and on the flat or down hill you just spun out too much.
The mountain bike market is becoming increasingly difficult to find a bikes with what I would call descent gearing, if they are not 1 x10 then they are 2 X 10 with mickey mouse 22/36 gears!
I hope the road market doesn't go the same way.
The mountain bike market is becoming increasingly difficult to find a bikes with what I would call descent gearing, if they are not 1 x10 then they are 2 X 10 with mickey mouse 22/36 gears!
I hope the road market doesn't go the same way.
I can see the 1X being good for commuter bikes, but not true road bikes. Personally I would like a CX style bike, lugs for rack and mud guards, 32mm touring tyres, 1X and hydro brakes. Ideal for my commute where peak efficiency is less important than mechanical reliability and brakes that work well in all weathers.
Herman Toothrot said:
MTB single rings the best thing to happen to bikes in years.
Personally I can't see me ever going back to 2x or 3x on my MTB.
On my CX bike I really liked the 1x10 set-up. I ran a 42t on the front for general riding and commuting but switched to a 38t for CX races. I never had any problems with hills with the 42t and 42/11 gave me enough speed on the descents.
Herman Toothrot said:
If you can spin out 36/11 on a mountain bike on a remotely bumpy DH you should be a world champion downhill racer, are you?
For road I agree close ratios more important.
MTB single rings the best thing to happen to bikes in years.
Riding around the trails at Afan, glycorrwg, cwm carn, and bumbling around the natural trails in south wales and I can assure you that I have spun a 36 out. I spend quite a lot of my trial riding on the 44 ring. I don't like really high cadence on MTB I find it unsettles the bike. So I try to keep my cadence around 80-100 rpm. Mostly it's when I'm transitioning between each trail on the fire roads or road sections linking bridal paths and different forestry sections.For road I agree close ratios more important.
MTB single rings the best thing to happen to bikes in years.
But you are correct I am not a champion downhill racer.
So what you meant was on roads and unmade roads you want to ride faster than the 25mph a 36/11 would allow you to manage doing ~100rpm on a mountain bike? Not actual off road riding? Just to be clear so newbies don't think they need big gears as it's normal for people to do 25mph off road pedalling along trails which it certainly isn't.
neenaw said:
Herman Toothrot said:
MTB single rings the best thing to happen to bikes in years.
Personally I can't see me ever going back to 2x or 3x on my MTB.
Thanks.
Mud clearance is vastly improved, no longer does the front mech collect dirt and deposit it on your chain so the shifting overall works better, smoother more efficient. With a narrow wide ring no chance of dropping the chain. The ratios are still close in the middle of the block but you have bit of a jump to the lowest gear, but less than you'd have shifting off the middle ring into the little ring. The high gears you just loose but in reality how often off road does anyone ever use 44/11? My XC bike with 34/11 I can just about spin out on the flat on the road, off road never. I ride all over the place South Wales last weekend with 1000m climbing in about 20km, absolutely no problem on a full suspension bike with 34/42 and on my hard tail 34/36 is never a problem.
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TwistingMyMelon said:
Agree with the above, big gaps drive me nuts between gears, as I like very subtle gear differences to maintain good cadence. For other people it doesn't bother them.
I can see it being good for commuting, I only have a 39 11-25 8 speed on my MTB commuter. But lots of commuters bikes can be had with a one front ring setup
I'm thinking about switching from 3x9 to 1x9 on my commuter hybrid. I've just left it on the middle (36T) ring for the past few weeks and it seems to work just fine. It's got 11-32 on the back, which is just enough range (a 40-something chainring really wouldn't work around here). I can see it being good for commuting, I only have a 39 11-25 8 speed on my MTB commuter. But lots of commuters bikes can be had with a one front ring setup
BOR said:
Thanks Herman,
Having read more, it seems there is a suggestion to change the chainwheel up or down in size dependent on what terrain you plan to ride, (if even necessary).
I read about the easy swapping of chain rings as a solution if going somewhere really hilly, you may want a 32T up front - In practise I've found 34T fine. I did buy a 32T ring when I first made the change just in case; if I lived somewhere like S.Wales and was constantly having to do steep technical climbs all the time I would put the 32T on the front and leave it there. Where I do live and ride the most (the Chilterns) 34T is absolutely fine and for the monthly trips to Wales it's not a problem and I don't think undoing the 4 Allen bolts worth bothering doing to put the 32T on.Having read more, it seems there is a suggestion to change the chainwheel up or down in size dependent on what terrain you plan to ride, (if even necessary).
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