Wedge Fuel Tank Cleaning

[John042]

Good Morning All. I know this subject has been posted before but info/advice needed please. Wedge fuel tanks are, I know, a pain to remove, and since I want to progress the the task of getting on the road before the next century I'm investigating the best flushing agent to pour into the tanks. There is evidence of the dreaded "black gunge" in the outlet tank pipes but I'm hoping this is resudual from the small amount of fuel remaining in the tanks. Obviously the RR solution would be tank removal but time is pressing. My thoughts are to pour a suitable solution into the tanks to disolve the remaining sludge, flush with, whatever and fit a pre-pump filter. So basically what effectively will break down the deposits please? Suggestions so far range from, white spirit,acetone,loxaine and petrol. Incidentally the internal condition of the tanks inspected with an internal scope seem free from corrosion. Many thanks for any input. Cheers John C.

[ElvisWedgely]

I have heard that vinegar is widely used abroad for cleaning out carburettors and cylinder heads. I wonder if it could also tackle the fuel tank. I would try and obtain some of the gunk you are talking about, put a small amount in a container and mix it with vinegar to see if it dissoves overnight. If so, it might work. It seems to work on everything else. Just a suggestion to your problem. Usual disclaimer applies.

Tony. TCB.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...If there is no sign of rust then i would fit a pre-filter and new bulkhead filter..Fill up with fresh fuel, You can put an additive in..Like an injector cleaner and run the engine..Or drive the car slowly over cattle grids or cobblestone roads..This will agitate the gunk and the petrol will wash it out..After two fillings of fuel i would check the pre-filter...Ziga

[John042]

Thanks Tony/Zig. So far I've tried the compounds mention in a tin to see what happens to the gunk. Not a lot! Acetone had the most effect but not completly dispersing. Vinegar is my next option.If not it will be as you suggest pre-pump filters and flushing with fresh fuel. Cheers John C.

[The Hatter]

The passenger side tank is easy to get out, especially if you're replacing the pipes (a good idea) as you can just cut them. The tank is held by two straps; each of which has two bolts through to the interior of the car; these bolts are welded to straps inside the car so you don't need to get a spanner to the back of them.

I took the passenger side out and flushed with cellulose thinners, that worked well. I replaced the pipes, pump and filter(s) as they were contaminated. The driver's side I left in place and the contamination in that tank seems to slowly disperse, it didn't affect how the car ran. This was on a V8, I think the V6 mechanical injection system is more sensitive to the fuel residue so needs more care.

The US folks on here might like to comment on a common concoction out there - 'sea foam'. I wasn't brave enough to use it.

[John042]

Thanks Martin. The tanks look a bast**d to get out. At the moment I'm trying the vinegar route in a tin with the offending "gunk" Thinners is also on the list. Maybe I'm being over cautious as the sediment is obviously in the pipes and swirl pot but only, as far as I can tell, in the outlet tank pipes. Thanks J C.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi John...Have you removed the 2" pipe that joins the tanks?...You should be able to agitate some of it with a prodder of any description...I would only use fuel as a degreasant as anything else might need to be rinsed out with water...Water is NOT what you want inside a petrol tank...It will have to be totally dry in there afterwards if you do....I would try to agitate it in some way even if it meant removing hoses and then having to put them back on to flush with a bit of petrol from the filler neck and then have the two hoses that go to the swirl pot into a tee and into a bucket!...If you can remove the bulk of it then i would go the filter and fresh fuel route or you will end up removing both tanks, Which WILL involve having to remove the rear suspension to get at the....O/S...I think!....Ziga

[Tasmin24v]

Please watch next movies....
It realy works.
I have checked it out ...
7 parts of water and 1 part molasses horse feed supplement (about £12.50 for 5l)
You have to give it some time (3 or 4 weeks)


https://youtu.be/b-_z4tinnXk


https://youtu.be/KZCFcxf5IBw

greetings

Stef

[John042]

Thanks Ziga. Happy days with fuel bits! What's your thoughts on re-assembling without a swirl pot and use a simple "T" piece to link the tank feeds to the fuel pump? Would it introduce problems of fuel supply to the pump? Cheers J C.

[mrzigazaga]

Delilah never had a swirl pot...Just a Tee...Actually rather a lot of them but thats another story!..The pump is gravity fed so it should be okay but just watch it if you run the fuel tanks low...You may also experience cutting out when turning left..Which is what used to happen to me if i was on a quarter of a tank...Although never when turning right which is strange...

[John042]

Centrifugal force on turning left, fuel displaced away from the pump?? Actually I've found a source of a guy who makes swirl pots for track/motorcross etc. Not too pricy but needs drawings/pics etc. Can't run out of fuel on 2 wheel cornering!! J C.

[adam quantrill]

I was looking at some ultrasonic kits - for about £30 you can get a 50W kit that runs off the mains. You would attach the transducer to the outside of the tank and run it for a while with turps or white spirit inside. Move it from place to place for a few runs. Then flush out the turps.

Whatever you do get a 100 micron pre-filter for the pump.