Easiest way through bulkhead
Discussion
Hi, I need some advise please 
Im replacing my otter switch at the weekend, as its a bit temprimental and a cause for concern. While doing so, im going to run a switch for a fan overide just incase of an emergency. Can anyone advise the best position to run the wires through the bulkhead? which is also the easiest way? or can i find the two wires that run to the otter switch on the drivers side of the bulkhead and tap into them there? if so where are they?
Thanks in advance
Im replacing my otter switch at the weekend, as its a bit temprimental and a cause for concern. While doing so, im going to run a switch for a fan overide just incase of an emergency. Can anyone advise the best position to run the wires through the bulkhead? which is also the easiest way? or can i find the two wires that run to the otter switch on the drivers side of the bulkhead and tap into them there? if so where are they?
Thanks in advance
Theres no need to go thru the bulkhead, the g/k wire to the otter switch runs in the main harness from the fusebox to under the dash, and goes thru the bulkhead behind the radio. just splice into this cable and switch it to ground. This will switch the fans on by activating the relay - the correct way to do it - Mr Heaths diagram is inaccurate as it does not illustrate the fan relay(s) - which we all have.
HTH, Dave
HTH, Dave
Thats a a wiring Diagram for a 4.x Griffith and as stated addition wirings may of been added since.
A shame there are no others that anyone as been able to get hold of. If Steve cant then I doubt there is any?
On my Griffith I just sent a couple of wies that are piggybacked on the otter over the Engine with various other wires/hoses and then through the grommet just down in the bay near the Brack Fluid reservoir.
Put a switch down under the Dash and LED to show its on/off on the Steering wheel console.
BB
A shame there are no others that anyone as been able to get hold of. If Steve cant then I doubt there is any?
On my Griffith I just sent a couple of wies that are piggybacked on the otter over the Engine with various other wires/hoses and then through the grommet just down in the bay near the Brack Fluid reservoir.
Put a switch down under the Dash and LED to show its on/off on the Steering wheel console.
BB
Just to be clear I was referring to the fan override diagram on p135. Why run wires in the engine bay / thru the bulkhead, when its not neccessary? Last place I would want any wiring is near to the manifolds / cat, also you run less risk of creating a water ingress problem, & less wire = less weight.
Sorry Spend, See what you mean 
Although To me it was far simpler and I Knew without having to test/follow a load of wires around the fusepanel/Dash to get the right ones.
The wires I ran followed others and are well away from manifolds etc and made the grommet that was also being used by other wires an even smugger fit+silicon
Glad you saved on Wieght
BB
Although To me it was far simpler and I Knew without having to test/follow a load of wires around the fusepanel/Dash to get the right ones.
The wires I ran followed others and are well away from manifolds etc and made the grommet that was also being used by other wires an even smugger fit+silicon
Glad you saved on Wieght
BB
No problem, just worried somebody was going to follow the bible - and think that 50 amps should be wired through the otter switch....
BB - So your'e still at the mercy of the earth on the otter switch??? Not using the same earth as the switch would seem a safer option for an override switch IMHO :-)
Dave
BB - So your'e still at the mercy of the earth on the otter switch??? Not using the same earth as the switch would seem a safer option for an override switch IMHO :-)
Dave
Yes the relay is missing but the general principle is still the same. The override switch is in parallel with the otter switch and the LED is hooked up to the ignition feed and the switch.
Yes you can intercept on the wiring loom but it is more complicated especially as TVR changed the wiring so much.
Yes you could use a different earth but the main failure mode is a faulty switch. The otter switch earth is the same one as the fans anyway so if this fails, the fans won't work anyway.
The external wire is easier and removable. There is already plenty of wiring under the bonnet and the wire can be routed out of the way of the hot bits.
A good place to take the wire through is via the air con connection into the driver's footwell. Might need to remove the clutch cover to thread it through but it is fairly need way. Other than that it is a question of finding a suitable bulkhead grommit and exploiting it. Trouble is they have changed and moved around a bit so it is difficult to say use this one. Which ever one you use, seal it well so that it doesn't leak.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Yes you can intercept on the wiring loom but it is more complicated especially as TVR changed the wiring so much.
Yes you could use a different earth but the main failure mode is a faulty switch. The otter switch earth is the same one as the fans anyway so if this fails, the fans won't work anyway.
The external wire is easier and removable. There is already plenty of wiring under the bonnet and the wire can be routed out of the way of the hot bits.
A good place to take the wire through is via the air con connection into the driver's footwell. Might need to remove the clutch cover to thread it through but it is fairly need way. Other than that it is a question of finding a suitable bulkhead grommit and exploiting it. Trouble is they have changed and moved around a bit so it is difficult to say use this one. Which ever one you use, seal it well so that it doesn't leak.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
shpub said:
The otter switch earth is the same one as the fans anyway so if this fails, the fans won't work anyway.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the Fan Earth is from the front chassis mount, and otter switch earth is from the engine block.
As for the rest we shall just have to agree to disagree.
Dave
Much easier to modify a relay, simple test will find the coil side to go to neg/chassis. No need to run wires through the bulk head or try finding the otter wire. The relay(s) may be in different locations, but the principle is the same and if you do have two, you only need to mod the one.
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