Suspension question
Discussion
Hi all,
I've got a sneaking suspicion that my rear suspension is less than optimal, and not having much expertise in this area I wanted to pick your collective brains.
Essentially, I'm experiencing the following issues:
The car is bottoming out more often than it used to - it always did on speed bumps, but recently I've had a few 'bangs' when hitting bumps on roads/motorways at decent speeds... control never feels lost (I.E: the back feels planted) but it's not good for the car, exhaust or the nerves of any passengers!
If I hit a couple of bumps in quick succession, the bounce seems to amplify
I took a hoon out the other weekend, with a friend following in his Porsche, and he said at times he backed off through the twisties as he thought I was getting twitchy. I said I hadn't felt anything stepping out, but he said the rear of the car appeared 'bouncy' at times.
If I'm carrying a heavy passenger, when they get out of the car (and for about 30 mins afterwards) the clearance between the passenger side rear wheel and the arch edge is much narrower than on my side (for example, I can get 4/5 fingers in the gap - on their side it may be 1)
Finally, the exhaust pipe on the passenger side has a nasty crease where it's obviously bumped down onto something. I think this has always been there since I had the car, but perhaps not.
All of the above leads me to think that something isn't right on the rear near-side suspension, but what do I look for/check?
There are no leaks, as the car has just sailed through an MOT.
I've tried the 'push it down' test, and both corners spring back with no bounce I can ascertain.
I've got a sneaking suspicion that my rear suspension is less than optimal, and not having much expertise in this area I wanted to pick your collective brains.
Essentially, I'm experiencing the following issues:
The car is bottoming out more often than it used to - it always did on speed bumps, but recently I've had a few 'bangs' when hitting bumps on roads/motorways at decent speeds... control never feels lost (I.E: the back feels planted) but it's not good for the car, exhaust or the nerves of any passengers!
If I hit a couple of bumps in quick succession, the bounce seems to amplify
I took a hoon out the other weekend, with a friend following in his Porsche, and he said at times he backed off through the twisties as he thought I was getting twitchy. I said I hadn't felt anything stepping out, but he said the rear of the car appeared 'bouncy' at times.
If I'm carrying a heavy passenger, when they get out of the car (and for about 30 mins afterwards) the clearance between the passenger side rear wheel and the arch edge is much narrower than on my side (for example, I can get 4/5 fingers in the gap - on their side it may be 1)
Finally, the exhaust pipe on the passenger side has a nasty crease where it's obviously bumped down onto something. I think this has always been there since I had the car, but perhaps not.
All of the above leads me to think that something isn't right on the rear near-side suspension, but what do I look for/check?
There are no leaks, as the car has just sailed through an MOT.
I've tried the 'push it down' test, and both corners spring back with no bounce I can ascertain.
Sounds like a duff Spring (this is the shock absorber) to me. This is what controls the amount of movement within the suspension's range of travel, for a given impact (softer spring will allow more travel than a stiffer spring)and absorbs the shock of that impact.
The Damper (what people incorrectly call the shock absorber) just dampens the movement in the suspension rather than the amount of travel.
The Damper (what people incorrectly call the shock absorber) just dampens the movement in the suspension rather than the amount of travel.
You give the impression that, like the other 95% of us you are not a gifted, experienced car mechanic. You wouldn't be asking these questions if you were.
It also sounds like your ride height is ok, as that was the first thing I thought of, as 4-5 fingers sounds like plenty of clearance. I had the same problem a while back, but in my case it was ride height.
I don't like the sound of your handling issues. This could be a serious issue at speed, even if it has slipped through the MOT test, so I would recommend taking the car to someone who knows what he is looking at. It sounds to me like a faulty damper, given that the car does recover its full road position, but not until half an hour after a passenger has been in the car. But there could be more than one thing wrong and you need it looking at by an expert. Do you have one locally? Someone like Bespoke?
It also sounds like your ride height is ok, as that was the first thing I thought of, as 4-5 fingers sounds like plenty of clearance. I had the same problem a while back, but in my case it was ride height.
I don't like the sound of your handling issues. This could be a serious issue at speed, even if it has slipped through the MOT test, so I would recommend taking the car to someone who knows what he is looking at. It sounds to me like a faulty damper, given that the car does recover its full road position, but not until half an hour after a passenger has been in the car. But there could be more than one thing wrong and you need it looking at by an expert. Do you have one locally? Someone like Bespoke?
QBee said:
You give the impression that, like the other 95% of us you are not a gifted, experienced car mechanic. You wouldn't be asking these questions if you were.
It also sounds like your ride height is ok, as that was the first thing I thought of, as 4-5 fingers sounds like plenty of clearance. I had the same problem a while back, but in my case it was ride height.
I don't like the sound of your handling issues. This could be a serious issue at speed, even if it has slipped through the MOT test, so I would recommend taking the car to someone who knows what he is looking at. It sounds to me like a faulty damper, given that the car does recover its full road position, but not until half an hour after a passenger has been in the car. But there could be more than one thing wrong and you need it looking at by an expert. Do you have one locally? Someone like Bespoke?
I'm certainly not a gifted mechanic, but have no issue with stripping down/replacing parts. I've been helping to build a kit car with a friend of mine for the past year (and have reskinned my knuckles more than I care to think about!)It also sounds like your ride height is ok, as that was the first thing I thought of, as 4-5 fingers sounds like plenty of clearance. I had the same problem a while back, but in my case it was ride height.
I don't like the sound of your handling issues. This could be a serious issue at speed, even if it has slipped through the MOT test, so I would recommend taking the car to someone who knows what he is looking at. It sounds to me like a faulty damper, given that the car does recover its full road position, but not until half an hour after a passenger has been in the car. But there could be more than one thing wrong and you need it looking at by an expert. Do you have one locally? Someone like Bespoke?
I've visually checked the spring (I thought it may have cracked) but it looks fine. There is no spray/leaking from the damper.
Do springs lose their 'springiness' over time?
Sounds good, and I wasn't intending to offend.
Then I suggest you go for a diagnosis by an expert, and replace the parts yourself. But it may well need a 4 wheel alignment afterwards. As I am sure you know, TVRs are very sensitive to misalignment.
Some photos of the nearside rear suspension would be a help with online diagnosis.
Then I suggest you go for a diagnosis by an expert, and replace the parts yourself. But it may well need a 4 wheel alignment afterwards. As I am sure you know, TVRs are very sensitive to misalignment.
Some photos of the nearside rear suspension would be a help with online diagnosis.
You could have a broken spring,, unlikely,
If you have a jack, take rear wheel off and check shocker,,,,
Look in between the spring at the smooth steel rod that is part of the damper, look for oil leaks,
You may have little or no damping if you have a leak or the valving inside the shock is suspect, again what shocks do you have,, are they a different colour spring front to rear,,,
Can you see an adjustment knob usually at the bottom of the shock,,, if so
Start by counting the amount of clicks your dampers are set too
Go from their existing position and count off the clicks as you go anti clockwise with the knob ( effectively so your loosening of the damper )
When it hits the stop you know your damper setting! 12 clicks,,,, 8 clicks,,, whatever it is!
When setting dampers it's usually the practice to go to fully hard, meaning you now wind the damper knob clockwise ,,,,,, count how many clicks are on each shock,, they can vary by 1 or 2
When at fully hard and the knob hits the stopper you should now wind back your knob to the desired setting,,,,
If you then decide to go a few more clicks clockwise your stiffening up your ( damper ) with can help to give a firmer ride,,,,
Just remember that it's your spring that holds the car up and yes the ride height position,,,
If you have a jack, take rear wheel off and check shocker,,,,
Look in between the spring at the smooth steel rod that is part of the damper, look for oil leaks,
You may have little or no damping if you have a leak or the valving inside the shock is suspect, again what shocks do you have,, are they a different colour spring front to rear,,,
Can you see an adjustment knob usually at the bottom of the shock,,, if so
Start by counting the amount of clicks your dampers are set too
Go from their existing position and count off the clicks as you go anti clockwise with the knob ( effectively so your loosening of the damper )
When it hits the stop you know your damper setting! 12 clicks,,,, 8 clicks,,, whatever it is!
When setting dampers it's usually the practice to go to fully hard, meaning you now wind the damper knob clockwise ,,,,,, count how many clicks are on each shock,, they can vary by 1 or 2
When at fully hard and the knob hits the stopper you should now wind back your knob to the desired setting,,,,
If you then decide to go a few more clicks clockwise your stiffening up your ( damper ) with can help to give a firmer ride,,,,
Just remember that it's your spring that holds the car up and yes the ride height position,,,
QBee said:
Sounds good, and I wasn't intending to offend.
Then I suggest you go for a diagnosis by an expert, and replace the parts yourself. But it may well need a 4 wheel alignment afterwards. As I am sure you know, TVRs are very sensitive to misalignment.
Some photos of the nearside rear suspension would be a help with online diagnosis.
Sorry, no offense taken at all! Don't worry!Then I suggest you go for a diagnosis by an expert, and replace the parts yourself. But it may well need a 4 wheel alignment afterwards. As I am sure you know, TVRs are very sensitive to misalignment.
Some photos of the nearside rear suspension would be a help with online diagnosis.
I'll snap some photos over the next day or two - I'm at the in-laws today.
The annoying thing is that it actually drives really well, apart from the occasional scrape
I had a lot of issues with the Chim's handling ever since my Dad's friend (the previous owner) bought it. The suspension components were replaced by (supposed) experts and it still wasn't right. Testing against other cars confirmed something had to be wrong as the handling was dreadful, and very bouncy over bumps, and of course it was wrong. While it was in getting the outriggers done at a reputable specialist we requested the suspension was looked at it turned out that the wrong shocks and springs had been fitted, and were not even adjusted correctly so it was never going to handle right.
A new set of shocks, correctly set up, and it handles beautifully.
If you're not happy with the handling, and you're not sure about what's wrong, get a reputable TVR specialist to look at it. It makes all the difference
A new set of shocks, correctly set up, and it handles beautifully.
If you're not happy with the handling, and you're not sure about what's wrong, get a reputable TVR specialist to look at it. It makes all the difference
Hi all,
Just got home and having a dig through the receipt box - the only info I can find is a receipt from 2004 from tvrbodyshop.co.uk for a bunch of work including:
Replace rear dampers and set-up
In the parts breakdown:
Rear AVO dampers
So, I guess it's got AVO dampers. I'll stick the camera in tomorrow and see if I can snap anything useful and then I'll book in with the local doctor.
Just got home and having a dig through the receipt box - the only info I can find is a receipt from 2004 from tvrbodyshop.co.uk for a bunch of work including:
Replace rear dampers and set-up
In the parts breakdown:
Rear AVO dampers
So, I guess it's got AVO dampers. I'll stick the camera in tomorrow and see if I can snap anything useful and then I'll book in with the local doctor.
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