Kenlowe fans

[DCerebrate]

Sp 6 Cerb transformed after expert susp geometry set-up, Andy's TB gasket kit and TB balancing, and manifold wrap (though can no longer cook all day breakfasts in a layby). Idle a bit low but seems happy. Still some concern about the way the coolant temp piles on even at 30mph. And in traffic can occasionally get as high as 104. Fans and radiator reported to be OK. Has anyone tried Kenlowe twin fan conversion, if so are fans 10 or 12", can circuits cope with high current, and does kit fit with existing shrouds? Or could I go for one large Kenlowe? Thanks in advance.

[sonnylad]

Lifting the idle slightly will help sitting in traffic as the coolant will flow better

[Byker28i]

Is that measured on the gauge or diagnostics?
My standard one used to do that, before it was mapped and the fans brought in earlier. Now it doesn't go above 95.

[DCerebrate]

Thanks. Rising temps an issue before idle speed was reset. These are gauge temps. Would be interested in fan threshold chip, but fan effectiveness appears to be main issue as temps very reluctant to fall once risen. Has anyone tried the Kenlowe fans? Being a good Scot, it seems a cheaper solution than replacing radiator!

[Robscim]

Personally, I'd be reluctant to change the fans - you're masking the problem that will eventually raise its head again!

How about taking the radiator out and flushing it out?

(And I'd also do as suggested and check the diagnostics to see if the gauge is accurate.)

A quick flush and you may have saved even more!!

Cheers

Rob

[Boosted LS1]

I had all of this with my TT rv8. The electric fans just took loads of power from the battery and interfered with the motec ecu. I had bonnet vents above the radiator and that didn't cure things either. They just couldn't cope because the engine was already cooking.

The fix which worked a dream was a crank mounted viscous fan ala export TR8. it kicked in before the engine was hot. I used a range rover fat bladed fan and mounted it to the crank damper via an aluminium nose cone which had to be manufactured locally. PAS, turbo's and this fan were amongst the best mods I did :-)

[DCerebrate]

That is intriguing. In the absence of knowledge, my imagination conjures up a hydraulic connection to the fan, presumably so that it doesn'r rotate at 7000rpm when the engine is going at that speed. Is that right? And does the coupling come with the fan?

[Boosted LS1]

A viscous fan has an internal clutch. At low rpm's (ie in traffic) the fan rotates and cools the radiator but as revs rise the clutch disengages, the fan stops turning. Air flow through the radiator is sufficient for the cooling.

You'll need to find a fan with a blade diameter that suits your engine bay if you go this route. It'll work and it won't interfere with anything else if you get what I mean. Usually viscous fans are mounted to the water pump drive but that can effect bonnet clearance.

Lots of pictures if you google it in 'images'.

Edited by Boosted LS1 on Monday 13th July 23:17

[DCerebrate]

Thanks for tips. Will look into getting radiator flushed at next service (there are a few low mileage cerbs like mine which were stored by previous owners), also into what is involved with viscous clutch fan.

[FarmyardPants]

I would've thought it nigh on impossible to have an engine-driven fan on a cerb, though. The rad is miles away from the front of the engine

[Boosted LS1]

FarmyardPants said:

I would've thought it nigh on impossible to have an engine-driven fan on a cerb, though. The rad is miles away from the front of the engine

I've not looked in a cerb engine bay but my fan was mounted on a snout about 6 inches long. You can make the snout from aluminium or steel. Ducting behind the radiator might also be possible.

Before I used the viscous fan I used a really large Pacet item. It was pretty good but did effect my ecu if it was running for a while.

[Jhonno]

Is that temps off the gauge or diagnostics.. They can over-read a fair way on the dial.

[Byker28i]

Yup, worth looking at the routing of the capillary cable to see if it goes near the exhausts. Also check the gauge reading against the diagnostics.

Aide's diagnostics software on an android phone/device comes in very handy for this.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com....

[gruffalo]

Boosted LS1 said:

FarmyardPants said:

I would've thought it nigh on impossible to have an engine-driven fan on a cerb, though. The rad is miles away from the front of the engine

I've not looked in a cerb engine bay but my fan was mounted on a snout about 6 inches long. You can make the snout from aluminium or steel. Ducting behind the radiator might also be possible.

Before I used the viscous fan I used a really large Pacet item. It was pretty good but did effect my ecu if it was running for a while.

There is about an 18inch gap to make up to use a viscous coupled fan.

A Cerbera in good form should not overheat even in traffic in hot temps, there is something not quite right if the OP is having problems in the UK.

[gruffalo]

Boosted LS1 said:

FarmyardPants said:

I would've thought it nigh on impossible to have an engine-driven fan on a cerb, though. The rad is miles away from the front of the engine

I've not looked in a cerb engine bay but my fan was mounted on a snout about 6 inches long. You can make the snout from aluminium or steel. Ducting behind the radiator might also be possible.

Before I used the viscous fan I used a really large Pacet item. It was pretty good but did effect my ecu if it was running for a while.

There is about an 18inch gap to make up to use a viscous coupled fan.

A Cerbera in good form should not overheat even in traffic in hot temps, there is something not quite right if the OP is having problems in the UK.

[DCerebrate]

104 degrees quoted is in v. heavy traffic - which I don't see much of. It does come down a bit with the fans so may not technically be overheating, but engine just doesn't sound as happy over 100. Perhaps I am just too used to cars which sit rock steady at 90 degrees! I will check out capillary route and consider radiator flush. Would still like cooling upgrade. All fan solutions seem subject to compromise (or should that apply to all of engineering, design and life?). May go for Kenlowes on grounds of simplicity and off the shelf install. Anyone know correct diameter? And if amp draw is reasonable - 11 amps for twin 10 inch and 15 amps for single 16 inch? Cheers