Discussion
Hi all - does anyone know if it is possible to buy a new chassis for my S3. The outriggers are gone on mine, but there is also one of vertical tubes in the main frame gone as well.
I thought it might be more cost effective to buy a new one instead of having mine repaired.
Any ideas ??
I thought it might be more cost effective to buy a new one instead of having mine repaired.
Any ideas ??
Hi
I was told that a new chassis was about 2K ish, ask David Gerald, they are in Sprint.
Once you have the body off I think that 2K+ worth of welding would be equivelent to about 40 hours of welding at £50.00 per hour, material is cheap in comparison, no I'd be getting the body off and talking to a decent welding company.
Ask on here, somebody will know of a company in your area
I was told that a new chassis was about 2K ish, ask David Gerald, they are in Sprint.
Once you have the body off I think that 2K+ worth of welding would be equivelent to about 40 hours of welding at £50.00 per hour, material is cheap in comparison, no I'd be getting the body off and talking to a decent welding company.
Ask on here, somebody will know of a company in your area
I don't know where exactly you would get a new chassis from, but I very much doubt it would be cheaper to buy a complete new one. Once the body is off the welding and tubing should be less than £500. A new chassis is a lot more money and the time taken to swop all the bits over is going to be far greater. you will end up rebushing etc, I would only take this route if you plan on entering shows etc.
Z
Z
Thanks guys.
I am in the process of removing the body - single handed too (must be mad). Anyway - I agree with your comments. Only thing was that by the time the old plastic coating is removed, new tubes welded in and the chasis is then re- coated then I am sure the bill to refurbish it will not be less than £1000.
Incidentally I am looking at stove enamelling it as opposed to plastic coating as I am sure this has caused as much damage with water gettting under it. Or at least something more flexible. What about galvanizing ??
I am in the process of removing the body - single handed too (must be mad). Anyway - I agree with your comments. Only thing was that by the time the old plastic coating is removed, new tubes welded in and the chasis is then re- coated then I am sure the bill to refurbish it will not be less than £1000.
Incidentally I am looking at stove enamelling it as opposed to plastic coating as I am sure this has caused as much damage with water gettting under it. Or at least something more flexible. What about galvanizing ??
If you were to supply a stripped chassis to any reputable welding company, like mine on the isle of wight,[url]www.fbfabrications.co.uk[/url] it should take no longer than one day, with a rough cost including materials of £200/£250.
Galvanizing is a big no no. as it would first have to be shot blasted, and the every sealed member of the chassis would have to have at least 2, 6-10mm holes drilled in it to allow the gases inside to expand when it is dipped into the galvanizing tank, and most importantly the heat may disstort the thing.
Galvanizing is a big no no. as it would first have to be shot blasted, and the every sealed member of the chassis would have to have at least 2, 6-10mm holes drilled in it to allow the gases inside to expand when it is dipped into the galvanizing tank, and most importantly the heat may disstort the thing.
Hi,
I looked at getting a new chassis last October. At the time David Gerald contacted the factory and were told that none were available but then a week later the factory called me and said they would do one for 2000+vat. Not sure what the story is now that they have officially stopped supporting the S
In the end I had mine welded at Moore Racing. Complete new outriggers, new petrol tank cradle, a new tube in diff cradle and they picked the car up for way less than a new chassis. Did a fantastic job.
I was also warned that a new chassis would be a pig to fit to the body as each chassis/body config is unique..!!
In the end I will have had the chassis welded, shotblasted, powdercoated, new bushes all round, new springs and shocks, new clutch, new radiator and much piece of mind for less than the price of a new chassis.
Body off isn't as bad as you might think. Just label everything twice. Don't know about body on as I haven't done it yet.
Good luck
Ralph
I looked at getting a new chassis last October. At the time David Gerald contacted the factory and were told that none were available but then a week later the factory called me and said they would do one for 2000+vat. Not sure what the story is now that they have officially stopped supporting the S
In the end I had mine welded at Moore Racing. Complete new outriggers, new petrol tank cradle, a new tube in diff cradle and they picked the car up for way less than a new chassis. Did a fantastic job.
I was also warned that a new chassis would be a pig to fit to the body as each chassis/body config is unique..!!
In the end I will have had the chassis welded, shotblasted, powdercoated, new bushes all round, new springs and shocks, new clutch, new radiator and much piece of mind for less than the price of a new chassis.
Body off isn't as bad as you might think. Just label everything twice. Don't know about body on as I haven't done it yet.
Good luck
Ralph
Cheers everyone - Clive is a little too far for me but otherwise I'd do it. But I live up norf - unfortuantely.
Point taken about the galvanising and the new chassis problems. Looks like getting it repaired is the answer - just not sure about the plastic coating again. Where it has cracked it just lets water in and spreads like wildfire.
Good luck with yours Ralph - thats what I plan on doing. Am labelling everything in sight and taken a few photos. Hardest part is getting to both sides of a nut/bolt - very few captive nuts and as soon as you lossen something it just spins.
Anyway - expect it too be off by the weekend. I,m almost there now just need to lift the back up a little more. And yes I expect it to be difficult to put back. It will need to nose dive at front to clear chassis tubes around front of gearbox.
Thanks again.
Point taken about the galvanising and the new chassis problems. Looks like getting it repaired is the answer - just not sure about the plastic coating again. Where it has cracked it just lets water in and spreads like wildfire.
Good luck with yours Ralph - thats what I plan on doing. Am labelling everything in sight and taken a few photos. Hardest part is getting to both sides of a nut/bolt - very few captive nuts and as soon as you lossen something it just spins.
Anyway - expect it too be off by the weekend. I,m almost there now just need to lift the back up a little more. And yes I expect it to be difficult to put back. It will need to nose dive at front to clear chassis tubes around front of gearbox.
Thanks again.
Hi,
I looked at getting a new chassis last October. At the time David Gerald contacted the factory and were told that none were available but then a week later the factory called me and said they would do one for 2000+vat. Not sure what the story is now that they have officially stopped supporting the S
In the end I had mine welded at Moore Racing. Complete new outriggers, new petrol tank cradle, a new tube in diff cradle and they picked the car up for way less than a new chassis. Did a fantastic job.
I was also warned that a new chassis would be a pig to fit to the body as each chassis/body config is unique..!!
In the end I will have had the chassis welded, shotblasted, powdercoated, new bushes all round, new springs and shocks, new clutch, new radiator and much piece of mind for less than the price of a new chassis.
Body off isn't as bad as you might think. Just label everything twice. Don't know about body on as I haven't done it yet.
Good luck
Ralph
I looked at getting a new chassis last October. At the time David Gerald contacted the factory and were told that none were available but then a week later the factory called me and said they would do one for 2000+vat. Not sure what the story is now that they have officially stopped supporting the S
In the end I had mine welded at Moore Racing. Complete new outriggers, new petrol tank cradle, a new tube in diff cradle and they picked the car up for way less than a new chassis. Did a fantastic job.
I was also warned that a new chassis would be a pig to fit to the body as each chassis/body config is unique..!!
In the end I will have had the chassis welded, shotblasted, powdercoated, new bushes all round, new springs and shocks, new clutch, new radiator and much piece of mind for less than the price of a new chassis.
Body off isn't as bad as you might think. Just label everything twice. Don't know about body on as I haven't done it yet.
Good luck
Ralph
Did the chassis on mine last year. 2k was much to much for a new one, so I had the chassis shot blasted and powder coated for £200. And the out riggers side rails body mounting plates and seat belt mounts replaced, not to bad a job to do with a good welder pal helping. Even if you pay top rates for the welding it will be less than a new one.
Body is now off - will try and post some pictures later but it is not a pretty sight.
Both outriggers are heavily corroded - almost frightingly bad is the near side one. It has virtually disappeared at the front corner.
More worrying is that two of the round vertical tubes in the middle have also corroded badly where they meet the lower main box section.
Is it OK to weld a patch on here ?
Both outriggers are heavily corroded - almost frightingly bad is the near side one. It has virtually disappeared at the front corner.
More worrying is that two of the round vertical tubes in the middle have also corroded badly where they meet the lower main box section.
Is it OK to weld a patch on here ?
Z's feet
This is pretty typical, by the vertical section do you mean the member running perpendicular to the outrigger (the one rusted on my pic), or actually one of the upright pieces in the main box section. Either way you can cut the tubing out and sleeve / replace where needed.
Z
>> Edited by z_chromozone on Monday 7th February 10:37
z_chromozone said:
Slightly O/T it looks like your front tyres are over inflated and worn in the middle band .
Harry
Replaced for the MOT last year.
Z
Can I assume you reduced the pressures since then otherwise they'll need changing again soon
. It'll probably make parking easier but thats about it. H
HarryW said:
HarryW said:
Slightly O/T it looks like your front tyres are over inflated and worn in the middle band
Harry
Replaced for the MOT last year.
Z
Can I assume you reduced the pressures since then otherwise they'll need changing again soon
H
Calm down Harry.
I only did a few miles on them dry miles on those tyres after buying the car. I run 22 , 24 like most others with Bridgestone's. I left them on there to roll the car around the garage while I was doing the resto. Z
Z
Thanks guys - yes my outriggers look worse than the ones in the picture. The vertical one is in the main box section - it is the one just behind where the front of the outrigger attches to the main box section - will try and get some pics up.
It has holed the main box section. Am hopefully going to get someone to have a look at the weekend. My welding skills are not at this level !!
It has holed the main box section. Am hopefully going to get someone to have a look at the weekend. My welding skills are not at this level !!
i put some pictures on here when i did the outriggers showing what was cut out etc etc please have a look if it helps
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/html/the_lift_.html
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/html/the_lift_.html
Just going through a similar quandry with my Wedge. I have repaired the chassis in a couple of places, with the previous owner having a couple of repairs done. Outriggers are good it is the inner spine that is breaking. Trouble is you end up chasing stress cracks around the chassis.
I am looking ot replace mine with a good 2nd hand one or a new one, then get it blasted and galvanised.
Hope your repairs are successful.
I am looking ot replace mine with a good 2nd hand one or a new one, then get it blasted and galvanised.
Hope your repairs are successful.
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