Anyone used a mount ('mat') counter?
Discussion
You cut with the board upside down with all mount cutters because you have put your guide marks on the back of the board so that there's no danger of them showing through the front and spoiling the presentation. Obvious when you think about it, but unless you've been shown how to do it or read the instructions then the first time is often a bit of a 
It's a matter of personal taste but I think an exhibition looks better if you make all the mount sizes the same even if you vary the image window sizes considerably.
>> Edited by te51cle on Monday 31st January 17:17
I bought a Logan mount cutter when I was doing a foundation course in photography. It was a sound investment. The only problem is that once people know that you've got one, they'll always want to borrow it. 
The secret to cutting good window mounts is to get yourself a piece of heavy strip steel as a straight edge. Put masking tape on the under-side so that it does not slip. When cutting your line, make the first one applying very light pressure so as to score the card and not overshoot your guide-lines. Make a second cut, applying slightly more pressure. The third and final cut should be made very carefully to ensure that you do not over shoot the guideline. You should, at this point, feel very little resistance as the blade travels through the card.
To avoid rough edges, make sure that your blade is sharp and not damaged in any way. If you feel the blade dragging as you cut, this is an indication that it is blunt or damaged.
To avoid snagging corners, when cutting, run over your horizontal guide by approximately 1.5mm.
Always cut to the right of your guide, ie inside the aperture to be cut so that the bevelled edge faces inwards. (That is why you mark the back of the card.)
It is a case of practice makes perfect. I always keep the spare card for practice and to test that the blade is sharp before committing to the final piece of card.
I personally prefer the bottom margin to be slightly deeper that the top one, to raise the eye towards the image. I also agree that if mounting an exhibition it is better to use a consistent size, varying the size of the aperture instead of the mount size. I would always opt for the same colour mount card throughout. Daler's Antique White board is a favourite of mine, working equally well with both colour and black and white prints. I usually take the print to the framer's to find the most suitable colour and to also find a suitable frame too.
The secret to cutting good window mounts is to get yourself a piece of heavy strip steel as a straight edge. Put masking tape on the under-side so that it does not slip. When cutting your line, make the first one applying very light pressure so as to score the card and not overshoot your guide-lines. Make a second cut, applying slightly more pressure. The third and final cut should be made very carefully to ensure that you do not over shoot the guideline. You should, at this point, feel very little resistance as the blade travels through the card.
To avoid rough edges, make sure that your blade is sharp and not damaged in any way. If you feel the blade dragging as you cut, this is an indication that it is blunt or damaged.
To avoid snagging corners, when cutting, run over your horizontal guide by approximately 1.5mm.
Always cut to the right of your guide, ie inside the aperture to be cut so that the bevelled edge faces inwards. (That is why you mark the back of the card.)
It is a case of practice makes perfect. I always keep the spare card for practice and to test that the blade is sharp before committing to the final piece of card.
I personally prefer the bottom margin to be slightly deeper that the top one, to raise the eye towards the image. I also agree that if mounting an exhibition it is better to use a consistent size, varying the size of the aperture instead of the mount size. I would always opt for the same colour mount card throughout. Daler's Antique White board is a favourite of mine, working equally well with both colour and black and white prints. I usually take the print to the framer's to find the most suitable colour and to also find a suitable frame too.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I rang Keencut (very helpful) and they identified my model as an 'Arrow', about 20 years old, but they're sending me a photocopy of the instructions. Nice people!
This cutter is like a technical drawing board with all the guides and a rotating twin cutter head (bevel and straight) so you just make the first cut, turn the card round 90 degrees and so on. No marking out seems necessary.
They confirmed the mount board goes in upside down, but gave the reason as the way the rotating jobbie swivels down at the start and end of each cut. Hmmm - now if I put the board in from the other side...?
Apparently you also need a bit of spare card underneath to cut onto.
For simplicity's sake I'm having all prints made A4 and shrink to fit (Photobox £1.75 each less 25%). I agree with Emma that having the lower part of the mount slightly wider looks nice, but I'll see how easy it is to configure the cutter to do that. I suppose that for prints that are slimmer than A4 I shall have to experiment with the width anyway... I see a big pile of cardboard bits accumulating!
This cutter is like a technical drawing board with all the guides and a rotating twin cutter head (bevel and straight) so you just make the first cut, turn the card round 90 degrees and so on. No marking out seems necessary.
They confirmed the mount board goes in upside down, but gave the reason as the way the rotating jobbie swivels down at the start and end of each cut. Hmmm - now if I put the board in from the other side...?
Apparently you also need a bit of spare card underneath to cut onto.
For simplicity's sake I'm having all prints made A4 and shrink to fit (Photobox £1.75 each less 25%). I agree with Emma that having the lower part of the mount slightly wider looks nice, but I'll see how easy it is to configure the cutter to do that. I suppose that for prints that are slimmer than A4 I shall have to experiment with the width anyway... I see a big pile of cardboard bits accumulating!
simpo two said:
...but they're sending me a photocopy of the instructions...
...which you can now frame!
Edited to say:-
Good luck with the exhibitions. Hopefully we'll be saying in the future, 'We knew that bloke before he came famous'.
>> Edited by ThatPhilBrettGuy on Monday 31st January 19:00
Sounds like a nice piece of kit you've got there then. Yes, putting a piece of scrap card under the board you're cutting is an essential piece of advice. If you don't you'll wear out the blade like crazy which will mean you start getting rough edges on the windows you cut out. A scrap board will also help protect the face of the mounting board from getting marked as you move the card about - particularly important with light coloured boards.
Just wait till you try doing your first double-mounted image, you'll love all the calculations. Then there's the joy of deliberately mounting items off centre, no end of fun !
Just wait till you try doing your first double-mounted image, you'll love all the calculations. Then there's the joy of deliberately mounting items off centre, no end of fun !
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
Good luck with the exhibitions. Hopefully we'll be saying in the future, 'We knew that bloke before he came famous'.
Awww, that's a kind thought. My sales target for the exhibition is 0 units, so anything over that is a bonus :-) The 'trojan horse' is that maybe it'll lead to commissions: I shall make sure there's a plentiful supply of 'Bloke' business cards!
te51cle said:
If you don't you'll wear out the blade like crazy which will mean you start getting rough edges on the windows you cut out.
This one cuts into a gap: I think the reason for the other board is just to keep the fibres together on the front face. That's why, logically, I'd have expected to cut the mount from the front.
Here follows two truly dreadful photos of it:
And the rotating jobbie:
te51cle said:
Just wait till you try doing your first double-mounted image, you'll love all the calculations. Then there's the joy of deliberately mounting items off centre, no end of fun !
Hmmm, yes, I have some nice ideas up my sleeve but will keep it easy for now!
Thanks guys; I wondered, as it was my uncle's and he never bought rubbish.
I found the current range at www.keencut.com/product.htm. The guy said that since my model, subsequent ones had been improved to deal with 'modern' materials - apparently mount board is tougher these days? A blade only lasts for 10 mounts, he said. Stanley blades will fit, but Keen sell better ones at about £16 for 100.
Anyway, I have a month to play with it and make my mistakes!
Can also be hired FOC to nearby PHers, of course
I found the current range at www.keencut.com/product.htm. The guy said that since my model, subsequent ones had been improved to deal with 'modern' materials - apparently mount board is tougher these days? A blade only lasts for 10 mounts, he said. Stanley blades will fit, but Keen sell better ones at about £16 for 100.
Anyway, I have a month to play with it and make my mistakes!
Can also be hired FOC to nearby PHers, of course
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