Suspension set up....
Discussion
Evening folks.
This time next week my car will have had all its suspension set up properly, hopefully transforming the handling.
But what should I expect/ask for?
It's being done at Neil Garners, it's recently had a set of gaz shocks fitted which I know are pretty basic in the shock world, but still a massive improvement over the baggy old bilsteins I had before.
It's dragging its arse over every bump so it needs to come up a bit, but what is the general consensus on ride height/ lower at the front ect....???
I won't be going on track days, so fast road set up is fine.
Any suggestions welcome.
This time next week my car will have had all its suspension set up properly, hopefully transforming the handling.
But what should I expect/ask for?
It's being done at Neil Garners, it's recently had a set of gaz shocks fitted which I know are pretty basic in the shock world, but still a massive improvement over the baggy old bilsteins I had before.
It's dragging its arse over every bump so it needs to come up a bit, but what is the general consensus on ride height/ lower at the front ect....???
I won't be going on track days, so fast road set up is fine.
Any suggestions welcome.
Ride height, Neil Garner will know. Lower rear wishbones parallel with the ground, fronts set to give a slight rake, front end down.
Dampers. Rears 6 clicks up from soft (so clockwise). Fronts between 7 and 12 clicks up, depending on how firm you like it. Avoid the temptation to go too stiff. Roads are bloody awful these days
If you ever get tempted onto a smooth race track, leave the rears alone, but set the fronts to max hard to stop the front diving under braking.
Dampers. Rears 6 clicks up from soft (so clockwise). Fronts between 7 and 12 clicks up, depending on how firm you like it. Avoid the temptation to go too stiff. Roads are bloody awful these days
If you ever get tempted onto a smooth race track, leave the rears alone, but set the fronts to max hard to stop the front diving under braking.
QBee said:
Ride height, Neil Garner will know. Lower rear wishbones parallel with the ground, fronts set to give a slight rake, front end down.
Dampers. Rears 6 clicks up from soft (so clockwise). Fronts between 7 and 12 clicks up, depending on how firm you like it. Avoid the temptation to go too stiff. Roads are bloody awful these days
If you ever get tempted onto a smooth race track, leave the rears alone, but set the fronts to max hard to stop the front diving under braking.
Depends which GAZ dampers, they don't all use the same valve, different number of clicks closed to openDampers. Rears 6 clicks up from soft (so clockwise). Fronts between 7 and 12 clicks up, depending on how firm you like it. Avoid the temptation to go too stiff. Roads are bloody awful these days
If you ever get tempted onto a smooth race track, leave the rears alone, but set the fronts to max hard to stop the front diving under braking.
Front
3/4 of degree of neg camber
0.75mm toe in per side (6minutes)
Rear
1.4 degrees neg camber
1.5mm toe in per side (12 minutes)
Edited by bobfather on Friday 24th July 07:40
QBee said:
Ride height, Neil Garner will know. Lower rear wishbones parallel with the ground, fronts set to give a slight rake, front end down.
Dampers. Rears 6 clicks up from soft (so clockwise). Fronts between 7 and 12 clicks up, depending on how firm you like it. Avoid the temptation to go too stiff. Roads are bloody awful these days
If you ever get tempted onto a smooth race track, leave the rears alone, but set the fronts to max hard to stop the front diving under braking.
I've soften my Ohlins right off and it's made for a much more pleasant ride and much more suitable handling for the roads I use the car on. Dampers. Rears 6 clicks up from soft (so clockwise). Fronts between 7 and 12 clicks up, depending on how firm you like it. Avoid the temptation to go too stiff. Roads are bloody awful these days
If you ever get tempted onto a smooth race track, leave the rears alone, but set the fronts to max hard to stop the front diving under braking.
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