Sudden engine loss
Discussion
Morning.
yesturday I took my 350i out and was confronted about 2 miles down the road with a nice new problem. The engine completely cut out at 50mph, I thought at first id snapped the throttle cable, but on inspection it was all fine! I had a look around the engine bay for anything stupid, but nothing. The car then fired up so I thought in TVR spirit Id plod on. seconds after setting off, it cut out again, seemed to restart again? and then a further 2 seconds died. I pulled over and 3 hours latter the RAC had me home. from inspection I have a spark, albeit not a great one, but still enough. And I definitely have fuel getting up from the take to the Regulator. After cranking and cranking to try and get it to go, I took the cold start injector out and sprayed some neat fuel into the plenum and it wanted to start. so I think from that fuel is the issue. But its not getting from the regular to the injectors. Im sure it could be any amount of things, but somewhere to start would be something!
Tricey
yesturday I took my 350i out and was confronted about 2 miles down the road with a nice new problem. The engine completely cut out at 50mph, I thought at first id snapped the throttle cable, but on inspection it was all fine! I had a look around the engine bay for anything stupid, but nothing. The car then fired up so I thought in TVR spirit Id plod on. seconds after setting off, it cut out again, seemed to restart again? and then a further 2 seconds died. I pulled over and 3 hours latter the RAC had me home. from inspection I have a spark, albeit not a great one, but still enough. And I definitely have fuel getting up from the take to the Regulator. After cranking and cranking to try and get it to go, I took the cold start injector out and sprayed some neat fuel into the plenum and it wanted to start. so I think from that fuel is the issue. But its not getting from the regular to the injectors. Im sure it could be any amount of things, but somewhere to start would be something!
Tricey
Hi mate...Make sure the ECU plug is firmly "Clicked" into place..The last pin controls the injectors so if that is not making proper contact then that could be the problem...I have two large cable ties holding my connector in place.
Also check the connection on the ballast resistor on the N/S wing..Again i have cable ties holding the plug in...
A weak spark is not good...How old is the coil..Leads...Rotor arm...Cap?
Cheers
Ziga
Also check the connection on the ballast resistor on the N/S wing..Again i have cable ties holding the plug in...
A weak spark is not good...How old is the coil..Leads...Rotor arm...Cap?
Cheers
Ziga
The bullet connector in the area of the AFM is required for the ECU to get the signal to activate the injectors.
No signal no fuel. And a dodgy connection will give running and not running depending on the signal arriving....
I this bullet connector many years ago and taped it for extra security.
Rob
No signal no fuel. And a dodgy connection will give running and not running depending on the signal arriving....
I this bullet connector many years ago and taped it for extra security.
Rob
Tap the red steering fuel relay with a screw driver handle while someone cranks for you also have a look at the ignition amplifier and replace if you have one and use heat sync paste. These are usual types of issues when the weather is a bit warmer and the cars go out ! Let us know how it goes
Chris
Chris
ECU is firmly in place and there is a feed where you have said Ziga, Ive splayed that bullet connector by the AFM to get a bit more surface contact between them too. I don't seem to be getting a feed to the 2 feeds that apparently should be going up the Lucas 2PR power amplifier by the AFM. So I'm assuming this is where my problem lies, potentially the relay is at fault?
My rotor arm and cap look brand new, but don't seem to be genuine. I have Magnecore Lleads which previous bills suggest are about 12 years old, Mind Chris at RPI said they last forever. The coil does look old, but gives a great spark to the king lead on top of the dizzy. dizzy is a genuine Lucas part but again probably old. My system is the early SD1 type with the amplifier unit underneath the coil.
Im was still struggling with a misfire before this problem came about, would love to think they are connected but think they might be separate.
Tricey
My rotor arm and cap look brand new, but don't seem to be genuine. I have Magnecore Lleads which previous bills suggest are about 12 years old, Mind Chris at RPI said they last forever. The coil does look old, but gives a great spark to the king lead on top of the dizzy. dizzy is a genuine Lucas part but again probably old. My system is the early SD1 type with the amplifier unit underneath the coil.
Im was still struggling with a misfire before this problem came about, would love to think they are connected but think they might be separate.
Tricey
ECU is firmly in place and there is a feed where you have said Ziga, Ive splayed that bullet connector by the AFM to get a bit more surface contact between them too. I don't seem to be getting a feed to the 2 feeds that apparently should be going up the Lucas 2PR power amplifier by the AFM. So I'm assuming this is where my problem lies, potentially the relay is at fault?
My rotor arm and cap look brand new, but don't seem to be genuine. I have Magnecore Lleads which previous bills suggest are about 12 years old, Mind Chris at RPI said they last forever. The coil does look old, but gives a great spark to the king lead on top of the dizzy. dizzy is a genuine Lucas part but again probably old. My system is the early SD1 type with the amplifier unit underneath the coil.
Im was still struggling with a misfire before this problem came about, would love to think they are connected but think they might be separate.
Tricey
My rotor arm and cap look brand new, but don't seem to be genuine. I have Magnecore Lleads which previous bills suggest are about 12 years old, Mind Chris at RPI said they last forever. The coil does look old, but gives a great spark to the king lead on top of the dizzy. dizzy is a genuine Lucas part but again probably old. My system is the early SD1 type with the amplifier unit underneath the coil.
Im was still struggling with a misfire before this problem came about, would love to think they are connected but think they might be separate.
Tricey
The amps are in rather a hot place so might be worth testing/Changing...Im not convinced by the magnacores...The cost is high and its something that degrades over time so i prefer to replace the leads & coil lead every 12 months with a good quality set of recommended RV8 leads, Cost is the same over ten years but I'm getting a new spark every year and not one that is working hard...(Personal opinion only)...
I was getting an intermittent cut out/Mis-fire and it was related to the king lead not being changed the same time as the plug leads due to it needing to be a lot longer...Ideally 1 x metre...But it was also a CTS failing so nothing is that easy to point a finger at unless you methodically test each part you touch or change..Im learning from the best and up until now its proven...Sometimes two things can be happening at once just to confuse you but it comes to light with perseverance and systematic checking and testing....I hope you find the gremlin bastid...Its a right HF when this happens.....Ziga
I was getting an intermittent cut out/Mis-fire and it was related to the king lead not being changed the same time as the plug leads due to it needing to be a lot longer...Ideally 1 x metre...But it was also a CTS failing so nothing is that easy to point a finger at unless you methodically test each part you touch or change..Im learning from the best and up until now its proven...Sometimes two things can be happening at once just to confuse you but it comes to light with perseverance and systematic checking and testing....I hope you find the gremlin bastid...Its a right HF when this happens.....Ziga
UPDATE.
There is a break somewhere between the ignition barrel and the fuel pump relay, without this there is no feed to the power resistors or AFM. To check I have bridged over the two and theres then a feed! and the bugger starts! now to find where the break is. Could be the ignition barrel itself I suppose?
There is a break somewhere between the ignition barrel and the fuel pump relay, without this there is no feed to the power resistors or AFM. To check I have bridged over the two and theres then a feed! and the bugger starts! now to find where the break is. Could be the ignition barrel itself I suppose?
I had a new misfire/cutout on mine over the weekend, different to the ignition amp failures I've had before. After fiddling with the wiring loom and having is stop completely I traced the fault to the AFM connector becoming a touch loose. I've never touched it before so that's worth a check.
Hi guys, Yes the ignition barrel on inspection seems to be doing what it should. I'e I have feeds going out where they should be on all the switch positions, so It may well be that multi plug, thanks for pointing it out, Ive had all the wiring down recently tracing a headlight problem so that could well be it. Need to drop the column to fit my near bulkhead bearing I've just bought anyway so I'll tie in all in over the next few evenings hopefully.
The pointers are much appreciated.
Tricey.
The pointers are much appreciated.
Tricey.
Thanks for those, unfortunately they just don't match mine at all haha!
I'm beginning to think I may have an immobiliser problem. I checked the multi plug for the ignition barrel and I have a feed going into the plug and out, so theres no problem there. Must either be a break further on in the connection or the immobiliser isn't telling it something. we'll see.
Tricey
I'm beginning to think I may have an immobiliser problem. I checked the multi plug for the ignition barrel and I have a feed going into the plug and out, so theres no problem there. Must either be a break further on in the connection or the immobiliser isn't telling it something. we'll see.
Tricey
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