My car has spat it's dummy out.
Discussion
After 12 months of reliable transport and only mimimum niggles, my car has realised that the warrenty has run out and has now decided to act up.
Now, the drivers door has decided it doesn't want to play any more. There's no clicking when you press the release button but to make matters worse, the door wont shut. The catch will rotate round, but wont lock into place. The only thing holding my door shut ATM is washing line tied round the passenger seat headrest.
I think what's happened is the solenoid has stuck in the release position. Can anyone shed any information on how easy it is to get at and if my diagnosis sounds right?
Fortunately, I've managed to get the £1000 claim limit warrenty from the AA for £25 (balance of my breakdown cover), but there's a 3 claim limit, so will try to fix this myself and save a claim for when the clutch goes tits up.
Now, the drivers door has decided it doesn't want to play any more. There's no clicking when you press the release button but to make matters worse, the door wont shut. The catch will rotate round, but wont lock into place. The only thing holding my door shut ATM is washing line tied round the passenger seat headrest.
I think what's happened is the solenoid has stuck in the release position. Can anyone shed any information on how easy it is to get at and if my diagnosis sounds right?
Fortunately, I've managed to get the £1000 claim limit warrenty from the AA for £25 (balance of my breakdown cover), but there's a 3 claim limit, so will try to fix this myself and save a claim for when the clutch goes tits up.
Cant say for certain how the door mechanism works but having had the boot solenoid release apart, I would suspect the locks all work the same way.
In the case of the boot, the motor pulls a wire rod to release the mechanism. Closing the boot latch pulls the motor back into position. As the door and boot locks sound the same when they operate, I'm fairly certain the door works in the same manner.
My boot displayed exactly the same symtoms as your door, turned out to be the wire getting twisted up at the motor end and hence would not lock. The motor couldn't work as the latch did not pull it back into position.
Motor should be behind the trim panel beside the rear seat. Don't think the motor is dead otherwise you'd be able to lock the door but not open it. Motors very cheap anyway so as you say, not worth a warranty claim.
In the case of the boot, the motor pulls a wire rod to release the mechanism. Closing the boot latch pulls the motor back into position. As the door and boot locks sound the same when they operate, I'm fairly certain the door works in the same manner.
My boot displayed exactly the same symtoms as your door, turned out to be the wire getting twisted up at the motor end and hence would not lock. The motor couldn't work as the latch did not pull it back into position.
Motor should be behind the trim panel beside the rear seat. Don't think the motor is dead otherwise you'd be able to lock the door but not open it. Motors very cheap anyway so as you say, not worth a warranty claim.
To confirm part of mike's reply
previous thread said:
the panel from the rear seat to the front seat belt top pivot hides the solenoids . It is only held in place with the bolt that mounts the seat belt and the door seal . You can probably get to the solenoids without any tools just by easing it away from the seat base and the door seal . I had the same problem about 3 months ago when both door opening solenoids siezed at exactly the same time
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