Rear Diff Bearings Help

[ibroker]

I have a leak from my rear diff and whilst changing the seals we want to change the
inside bearing as well. Does anyone have a part number for the bearing in question?

Cheers

Andy

[Number 7]

Assuming you mean the pinion bearing, sorry, cant help with a part number, but any Jag (for example) specialist should know - Salisbury 4HU - if LSD it is Powrlok. There is specific process in setting the preload on this bearing, involving a crush washer.

[Wedg1e]

Why do you want to change the bearing? Unless you can feel play or roughness I'd leave it alone; it's likely a modern replacement would be a poorer quality bearing than the 30-year-old original.
Check the outer race condition once you've taken the shaft apart (which you have to do to swap the seal), mine at 120,000 miles was completely unmarked.

[RCK974X]

Wedg1e - genuine question - is it like others in that you can change the seal by levering it out (after removing flange) and then carefully retightening ?

I've done that on a TR6 type diff a few times and it was fine afterwards....(yes - did check endfloat/preload as far as poss)

I've got a slight drip from mine....a possible future job.

[Wedg1e]

RCK974X said:

Wedg1e - genuine question - is it like others in that you can change the seal by levering it out (after removing flange) and then carefully retightening ?

I've done that on a TR6 type diff a few times and it was fine afterwards....(yes - did check endfloat/preload as far as poss)

I've got a slight drip from mine....a possible future job.

Hmmm... there seem to have been two variants of the stub axle: one has the drive flange retained by a big nut and the other has the flange forged as part of the stub itself.
I think on the first type it was possible to whip off the nut and flange, prise out and swap the seal as you say, but on the one-piece type it's a bit more involved.
Have a shufty at my webbie:

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...

where you'll see the stub assembly pulled out. Essentially you have to strip the assembly down to pull the stub out of the bearings and their housing, extract the seal and fit the new one then reassemble, returning the securing nut to exactly the original position. Otherwise you have to obtain new crush spacers and find the factory procedure for pre-loading the whole thing.
It's not hard but it does take some thinking through.