Manifold Removal
Discussion
By the end of today I will have a new set of gaskets and some barrier mat, the time has come to replace the inner wing heat shields on by pre-cat.
Any advice or tips on removing the manifolds most welcome,as access looks a swine on some of the bolts,although I do have a good range of sockets/spanners etc.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Any advice or tips on removing the manifolds most welcome,as access looks a swine on some of the bolts,although I do have a good range of sockets/spanners etc.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
just done mine on a catted 500 but the engine end of the manifold will be the same.
I needed to remove the starter motor to do the o/s.
I also had to loosen the exhaust system silencer to move the pipe to get to the n/s bolts.
have a good selection of 9/16 spanners available
all in all a pretty unpleasant job - i was crying by the end of it !!!!!!!!!!!
good luck Andy
I needed to remove the starter motor to do the o/s.
I also had to loosen the exhaust system silencer to move the pipe to get to the n/s bolts.
have a good selection of 9/16 spanners available
all in all a pretty unpleasant job - i was crying by the end of it !!!!!!!!!!!
good luck Andy
It is just possible to do both manifolds without removing the starter motor and exhaust system, but it is a real bastard of a job, so it might be easier to take them off, as Andyy says.
If you do it with the starter motor in place, disconnect the battery, othewise there is a real risk you will touch the live terminal on the starter motor and weld your spanner to the engine!
If you have the right tools (decent ratchet spanners and a socket set) the left hand bank is reasonably easy. The ones that apparently need the exhaust system to be removed (bottom bolt on the second rearmost header is worst, IIRC) can actually be accessed from the top if you remove the intake ducting etc. (2 minute job).
Be prepared to lose some skin, though.
edited to add...
Posted exactly the same topic myself, before I tried it. Click the shortcut on my profile, if you want to avoid running a search! Starmist's advice was good - I 'glued' the manifold gaskets to the manifolds using a thin smear of High Temp RTV silicone and let it cure before re-assembly - makes it a hell of a lot easier, as that way you aren't trying to hold the gasket in place with one hand, the manifold in place with the other, and get the bolts into their holes with your teeth.
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 3rd February 23:36
If you do it with the starter motor in place, disconnect the battery, othewise there is a real risk you will touch the live terminal on the starter motor and weld your spanner to the engine!
If you have the right tools (decent ratchet spanners and a socket set) the left hand bank is reasonably easy. The ones that apparently need the exhaust system to be removed (bottom bolt on the second rearmost header is worst, IIRC) can actually be accessed from the top if you remove the intake ducting etc. (2 minute job).
Be prepared to lose some skin, though.
edited to add...
Posted exactly the same topic myself, before I tried it. Click the shortcut on my profile, if you want to avoid running a search! Starmist's advice was good - I 'glued' the manifold gaskets to the manifolds using a thin smear of High Temp RTV silicone and let it cure before re-assembly - makes it a hell of a lot easier, as that way you aren't trying to hold the gasket in place with one hand, the manifold in place with the other, and get the bolts into their holes with your teeth.
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 3rd February 23:36
A lot of people seem to advocate the use of the later LR steel gaskets (ERR6733), I'm happy with mine, and they were a doddle to fit. If you are taking the manifolds off to renew the gaskets I would recommend using them, at least ask your LR dealer if you can have a look at some.
Dave
Dave
Martin_S said:
It is just
Posted exactly the same topic myself, before I tried it. Click the shortcut on my profile, if you want to avoid running a search! Starmist's advice was good - I 'glued' the manifold gaskets to the manifolds using a thin smear of High Temp RTV silicone and let it cure before re-assembly - makes it a hell of a lot easier, as that way you aren't trying to hold the gasket in place with one hand, the manifold in place with the other, and get the bolts into their holes with your teeth.
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 3rd February 23:36
Make sure you use oxygen sensor friendly RTV if you are going to use it.
A couple of small rubber bands usually does the trick for me. Snap them off when all bolted up.
Good idea with the bands Aaron.
Managed to remove all the manifold bolts from above no problem BTW, bought a couple of cheap 14mm ring spanners from a local car boot sale, cut and welded them up again so they went around the pipes, was lucky that they were'nt very tight though and the rearmost fixing on both sides was a hex socket bolt and I could get an allen key in no problem.
Found that I had a couple of blows that I had'nt noticed on the manifold joints, and the state of the wing shields with the manifolds out the way was far worse than I thought, just caught it in time as it had just started to scorch the wings behind the barrier mat, so was well worth the trouble to do it in all. Now all I have to do is make up the new shields and put it all back again.
Steve
>> Edited by Griffer on Tuesday 8th February 23:22
>> Edited by Griffer on Tuesday 8th February 23:24
Managed to remove all the manifold bolts from above no problem BTW, bought a couple of cheap 14mm ring spanners from a local car boot sale, cut and welded them up again so they went around the pipes, was lucky that they were'nt very tight though and the rearmost fixing on both sides was a hex socket bolt and I could get an allen key in no problem.
Found that I had a couple of blows that I had'nt noticed on the manifold joints, and the state of the wing shields with the manifolds out the way was far worse than I thought, just caught it in time as it had just started to scorch the wings behind the barrier mat, so was well worth the trouble to do it in all. Now all I have to do is make up the new shields and put it all back again.
Steve
>> Edited by Griffer on Tuesday 8th February 23:22
>> Edited by Griffer on Tuesday 8th February 23:24
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