Battery Isolator Switch
Discussion
We have a 4L Griff which, due to my work travel and where we live, often goes a couple of months without use. It is garaged underground in the apartment block without access to power or sunlight, so trickle charging is not possible. As a result the battery can completely flatten which is both inconvenient and damaging to the battery.
A lead/acid battery which draws no current should hold its charge for a long while, so I guess it is getting drained by the immobiliser, clock, etc. I am thinking of putting an isolator switch in the passenger footwell so that I can completely disconnect it from the fuse panel when not in use. (I don't need the immobiliser as the garage is secure and most of the time the roof is off anyway.) Is any harm done to the ECU or other components if the power is completely removed? (I assume not since this happens when the lengthy process of battery relacement takes place!)
I have a "Disconnect battery terminal" from VWP, works fine.
www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/BATTCON/BATTCON.html
Dave
www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/BATTCON/BATTCON.html
Dave
My 97 Griff 500 has a battery isolator switch under dash in passenger footwell, I always assumed this came as standard since I'm pretty certain previous (1st) owner didn't fit it. Like you, my Griff gets only infrequent use & lives 2 floors down in a garage, I always disconnect the battery after use & have not experienced any probs with ECU or otherwise after 2 years ownership.
tj
tj
tj500 said:
My 97 Griff 500 has a battery isolator switch under dash in passenger footwell, I always assumed this came as standard since I'm pretty certain previous (1st) owner didn't fit it. Like you, my Griff gets only infrequent use & lives 2 floors down in a garage, I always disconnect the battery after use & have not experienced any probs with ECU or otherwise after 2 years ownership.
tj
My 4L precat has one of these too, have you checked under the glove box???
TeGriffic said:
I certainly used the battery isolator switch (a red key under the glove box, passenger well) over the winter months with no problems. Makes for easy access to the positive if you need to jump is aswell.
Should it be fitted to the positive? I'd have thought the risk of the live terminal touching and shorting something (OK, remote possibility, but the loom is hardly well secured!) would have meant putting it in line with negative was more appropriate?
Same reason you should always disconnect negative first.
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