Changing a CV boot.......

[Nosh]

So - I have a split CV boot - luckily spotted when I the disassembled the rear, so I already have a new one from Racetech.

Here is the offending boot....



So - as I cannot find my Steve Heath bible (grrrrr) - can someone advise how I change it? I am thinking that in the picture below, I simply remove the circlip and pull the CV joint off that end of the driveshaft? Remove old boot, put new one on, pack in grease etc etc....

Is this right?



Thanks in advance!

Nosh

[carsy]

Yes thats correct. While its all off give the cv joint a proper clean up with petrol or similar and re pack.

Dot be surprised if that cv joint doesnt want to come off the shaft. I have had them where they will knock off relatively easily and others that required a stupid amount of pressure in a hydraulic press to remove them.

Heres hoping yours come off easily.

[igiveup]

This any help?

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Is this easy enough to do. I have one to do as well.

[QBee]

You will need the special tool for the circlips that hold the boot on - looks like a weird pair of pliers. Apologies if you already knew this.

[Richard 858]

There's and upgraded boot from one of the usual culprits, Clever Trevor / TVR Parts or similar, (can't remember which one). They're moulded to a flange that fits under the cap head bolts shown in the previous photos, they're a bit more expensive than standard (of course) but I fitted them and they're both more robust and neater. I'll try and find the source and report back.

[carsy]

Richard 858 said:

There's and upgraded boot from one of the usual culprits, Clever Trevor / TVR Parts or similar, (can't remember which one). They're moulded to a flange that fits under the cap head bolts shown in the previous photos, they're a bit more expensive than standard (of course) but I fitted them and they're both more robust and neater. I'll try and find the source and report back.

Its Clever Trevor Richard, i`ve got them on mine and they are quality items, but i have a feeling someone recently maybe Baretti said he couldnt source them anymore. Shame really cos they are far superior to the original type boots.

[N7GTX]

Boots made by Bailcast are made of Neoprene rubber, not the original rubber that splits like this one.
I only use this material for CV boots, steering gaiters etc. Never had one split yet. And cheap!

As they are also called 'stretchy' boots, then using a plastic cone means you don't have to dismantle the shaft after disconnecting from the car.

http://www.bailcast.com/products/search?Manufactur...

http://www.bailcast.com/products/fitting-tools/fc1...

You wont need the cone if you dismantle the joint. But if you do, then turn the boot inside out, apply lots of lubricant like WD40 or synthetic spray grease to the cone, then pull the boot over the cone which you have already pushed over the joint. Much easier in a warm room and if you practice first the boot will be easier after some stretching. Once over and in place, simply pull it back and it will turn over into place. You wont need steel bands or the tool. Tie wraps work perfectly well.

[Nosh]

Thanks guys for the responses!

Took circlip off - and had to 'tap' the shaft through and out - tight little bugger!

Cleaned all the old grease out - reassembled and repacked with the new grease from the sachet.

Jobs a good un !

Nosh

[harry henderson]

Hi everyone, I could do with some similar advice too. I recently snapped a drive shaft on my cerb which I have replaced. I didn't take it all to pieces though I just unbolted from the diff. on checking recently I found a couple of the allen bolts starting to loosen, they are a swine to tighen up. Should I use locktight on them?

[Nosh]

harry henderson said:

..........I found a couple of the allen bolts starting to loosen, they are a swine to tighen up. Should I use locktight on them?

The inner and outer bolts on the Chim are different - I found this out....

Anyway, for a Chim, they are (thanks to Proper Stokey):-

Outer CV Joint to Hub shaft - M10 x 1.25 pitch x 60 Socket Capscrew 12.9 grade (Metric Fine Pitch)
Inner CV Joint to Diff - M10 x 60 Socket Capscrew 12.9 grade (Metric Coarse Pitch)

Not sure if the Cerbie is the same - someone should be along soon with oodles more knowledge than me....

Nosh

[quattrophenia]

Whilst my car was on the ramps for a service I inspected all 4 CV boots. It was obvious they were looking dry and starting to Show fatigue. I checked them 1 month later and all 4 had split (quality standards for you!) Point is, if the others are looking a bit warn, then they will likely need replacing in the near future as well. Make sure you check all the CV's for play and that those circlips are replaced/seated properly.