Dash warning lights and engine not starting.
Discussion
Thanks guys 
Alarm or battery ?
Which ever it is I've never seen one flashing like that before.
Key fob pressed to open central locking,
Disarm the immobiliser with another fob thingy,
Key in the ignition,
Key turned until you see what's in the video and fuel pump starts,
Final turn and engine cranks but not firing.
Brand new spark plugs, extenders, dizzy cap and arm.
My next step is checking for fuel at the rail.
Alarm or battery ?
Which ever it is I've never seen one flashing like that before.
Key fob pressed to open central locking,
Disarm the immobiliser with another fob thingy,
Key in the ignition,
Key turned until you see what's in the video and fuel pump starts,
Final turn and engine cranks but not firing.
Brand new spark plugs, extenders, dizzy cap and arm.
My next step is checking for fuel at the rail.
Hi Cokes
Never seen ignition light flashing like that, should be steady red when ignition turned on and goes out when engine started.
You say the plugs, leads and extenders are new, if the car ran before changing these I would look at these parts first, perhaps king lead or amp connection lead dislodged from around the distributer.
The fuel pump primes and have fuel in the rail, so it may be difficult to start now due to flooded cylinders, would pull a couple of plugs to check situation, while out earth a plug and check for a spark.
Bad timing setting would get some effort to start, but you have nothing, which would lead me to ignition problem.
Hope it helps
Never seen ignition light flashing like that, should be steady red when ignition turned on and goes out when engine started.
You say the plugs, leads and extenders are new, if the car ran before changing these I would look at these parts first, perhaps king lead or amp connection lead dislodged from around the distributer.
The fuel pump primes and have fuel in the rail, so it may be difficult to start now due to flooded cylinders, would pull a couple of plugs to check situation, while out earth a plug and check for a spark.
Bad timing setting would get some effort to start, but you have nothing, which would lead me to ignition problem.
Hope it helps
Should have started with the fact the whole lot has been apart for restoration.
I've also tried all combinations of old and new dizzy cap and rotar arm to see if there was life.
Also plugged in the RoverGauge. Not sure if it's any use to help but this is what I got.
Also checked for error codes but no faults were found.
I've also tried all combinations of old and new dizzy cap and rotar arm to see if there was life.
Also plugged in the RoverGauge. Not sure if it's any use to help but this is what I got.
Also checked for error codes but no faults were found.
Top red led should be on solid with ignition and go out once started, it flashes randomly which would suggest poor connection/issue.
have you checked the 100amp fuse by the starter and the 80/100amp fuse in the loom to the fusebox, also the main earth points to the chassis on the tunnel and the drivers side outrigger?
do you get voltage at the coil?
do you get a spark at any of the plugs?
have you checked the 100amp fuse by the starter and the 80/100amp fuse in the loom to the fusebox, also the main earth points to the chassis on the tunnel and the drivers side outrigger?
do you get voltage at the coil?
do you get a spark at any of the plugs?
ukdj said:
Top red led should be on solid with ignition and go out once started, it flashes randomly which would suggest poor connection/issue.
have you checked the 100amp fuse by the starter and the 80/100amp fuse in the loom to the fusebox, also the main earth points to the chassis on the tunnel and the drivers side outrigger?
do you get voltage at the coil?
do you get a spark at any of the plugs?
The vid shows the top led stops flashing when the door in unlocked, so would say this is normal for the alarmed armed led. The trickey bit is the bottom led which should be the ingnition light flashing when the ignition is switched onhave you checked the 100amp fuse by the starter and the 80/100amp fuse in the loom to the fusebox, also the main earth points to the chassis on the tunnel and the drivers side outrigger?
do you get voltage at the coil?
do you get a spark at any of the plugs?
I would be looking for a spark at the plugs, and seeing if they are wet also
BeastMaster said:
ukdj said:
Top red led should be on solid with ignition and go out once started, it flashes randomly which would suggest poor connection/issue.
have you checked the 100amp fuse by the starter and the 80/100amp fuse in the loom to the fusebox, also the main earth points to the chassis on the tunnel and the drivers side outrigger?
do you get voltage at the coil?
do you get a spark at any of the plugs?
The vid shows the top led stops flashing when the door in unlocked, so would say this is normal for the alarmed armed led. The trickey bit is the bottom led which should be the ingnition light flashing when the ignition is switched onhave you checked the 100amp fuse by the starter and the 80/100amp fuse in the loom to the fusebox, also the main earth points to the chassis on the tunnel and the drivers side outrigger?
do you get voltage at the coil?
do you get a spark at any of the plugs?
I would be looking for a spark at the plugs, and seeing if they are wet also
And the plugs are now out and drying. I guess the cranking is only adding more and more fuel.
Next is to check timing and to double and triple check the firing order.
Cokes said:
Should have started with the fact the whole lot has been apart for restoration.
I've also tried all combinations of old and new dizzy cap and rotar arm to see if there was life.
Also plugged in the RoverGauge. Not sure if it's any use to help but this is what I got.
Also checked for error codes but no faults were found.
That shows the ECU is powered up as it should be and I assume its being cranked?- the sensor readings and map are just fine and it shows you have a pulse from the distributor to get an RPM reading. Have you checked for a spark from the coil king lead directly near to ground as you crank it- there should be one hell of a spark at that point, but dont hold the lead, use some tape and create a 5mm gap- it should jump that easily.I've also tried all combinations of old and new dizzy cap and rotar arm to see if there was life.
Also plugged in the RoverGauge. Not sure if it's any use to help but this is what I got.
Also checked for error codes but no faults were found.
Cokes said:
Thank you to every one of you that has helped today.
Turned out that I was 180 degrees out
Finally fired her up only to switch her straight back off, no oil
Just not priming right, going to overhaul the pump, change the oil switch and sender and check the pick up before I try again.
Take the cover off the oil pump and pack it with vaseline, refit the cover, then try to start.Turned out that I was 180 degrees out
Finally fired her up only to switch her straight back off, no oil
Just not priming right, going to overhaul the pump, change the oil switch and sender and check the pick up before I try again.
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