Chassis refurb questions
Discussion
I got a nice new MOT today, but knowing that the top of the outriggers have rotted out, and that the insurance is due next week, the decision has been made to lay-up and pull the old girl apart. Before I go making a final decision on what to do with the chassis, once the grit blast reveal and outriggers have been done, what have you had done, and how do you feel about it now, however far down the line? Are you happy with your choice or have you had a desire to turn back time and do something different? All input will help me decide which way to go over the long winter evenings coming up.
Mr Jenks said:
I got a nice new MOT today, but knowing that the top of the outriggers have rotted out, and that the insurance is due next week, the decision has been made to lay-up and pull the old girl apart. Before I go making a final decision on what to do with the chassis, once the grit blast reveal and outriggers have been done, what have you had done, and how do you feel about it now, however far down the line? Are you happy with your choice or have you had a desire to turn back time and do something different? All input will help me decide which way to go over the long winter evenings coming up.
Dave, have a look at my rebuild:http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I am going the galvanising route. I think it is the only way to ensure my chassis never rusts again. Some detractors but I still think it is a good plan. I haven't actually had it galvanised due to being too busy on garden mk. 2 (don't ask). May do it in the next month or so.
Main concern is that the chassis may warp, however I can find no evidence of that. Other minor concern is drilling the chassis but I've consulted structural guys and it would seem that there is little structural effect and what there is would be offset by the zinc from the galvanising process. Worth considering....! Pete
Mr Jenks said:
...once the grit blast reveal and outriggers have been done, what have you had done, and how do you feel about it now, however far down the line? Are you happy with your choice or have you had a desire to turn back time and do something different?
I had my chassis powder-coated as per the original design. I would say this is fine but there are powder-coaters and powder-coaters. First time I got the s
t type so the whole thing had to be blasted again and recoated. This powder-coater was commisioned by a trusted Northern TVR specialist so I would be cautious who you take a recommendation from. I'm an inveterate fettler so I'm often under the car. Happy with the final product now - it looks like new and doesn't seem to be rusting anywhere 2 years on. Lots of people think painting the chassis will last longer or go the galv route like Pete. The problem with powder-coat is that water can get trapped underneath it once it's breached. I like keeping things as they were (where functional and possible).
Simon
cavebloke said:
I had my chassis powder-coated as per the original design. I would say this is fine but there are powder-coaters and powder-coaters. First time I got the st type so the whole thing had to be blasted again and recoated. This powder-coater was commisioned by a trusted Northern TVR specialist so I would be cautious who you take a recommendation from. I'm an inveterate fettler so I'm often under the car. Happy with the final product now - it looks like new and doesn't seem to be rusting anywhere 2 years on.
Lots of people think painting the chassis will last longer or go the galv route like Pete. The problem with powder-coat is that water can get trapped underneath it once it's breached. I like keeping things as they were (where functional and possible).
Simon
A number of people have mentioned/recommended hot zinc spray, which is probably perfectly good enough. My feeling is that with galvanising/or hot zinc spray, even if you get the st type so the whole thing had to be blasted again and recoated. This powder-coater was commisioned by a trusted Northern TVR specialist so I would be cautious who you take a recommendation from. I'm an inveterate fettler so I'm often under the car. Happy with the final product now - it looks like new and doesn't seem to be rusting anywhere 2 years on. Lots of people think painting the chassis will last longer or go the galv route like Pete. The problem with powder-coat is that water can get trapped underneath it once it's breached. I like keeping things as they were (where functional and possible).
Simon
t powder coating, the integrity of your chassis remains. Benefits of galvanising is you get it coated inside and out but I am perfectly willing to admit that it may be 'over the top'.The problem with the chassis as a whole is that the bit most likely to rust is the bit you can't get to (the outriggers) so whatever you coat the chassis with, the outriggers need to have some sort of special treatment to ensure they don't rust as once the body is bolted down, you can't get to the bits that are most likely to rust. The ironey of the whole thing is that the outriggers are not really strength members but merely give a bit of strength to the driver and passenger cells.
In short, I would recommend something more than just powdercoating on your chassis if you want to be secure in knowing that the chassis will last. Somebody on here was mentioning a marine paint, I think it was PeteGriff. Another alternative is POR15. I think you should do a bit of research on paint and we would all like to know the outcome (well I certainly would!) Pete
Edited by Pete Mac on Saturday 12th September 07:51
Hi Guys
Thanks for the input. I have done a lot of thinking, and reading, over this recently, and having spoken to the company who will do the repairs I have a plan.
Once the body is off and chassis stripped, a blast should reveal any underlying issues. The outriggers will obviously be replaced and any other problems addressed, I will then have the chassis back for a trial fitting to mark up and drill the mounting holes in new corner plates. It will then go back for a second blast before hot zinc spray and powder coating. I like the original finish as opposed to a paint. I`m afraid I just can`t get my head around the galvanizing dip thing. I appreciate the durability of the finished product, but the thought of drilling holes in the chassis just ain`t for me, even without the (remote) possibility of distortion Others will no doubt tell me that I`m wrong and that it`s the way to go, fine, but I`m old school and happy to go with tried and tested.
I do plan on extremely picture heavy regular reports on progress, nowhere near as in depth and detailed as Pete Macs truly excellent efforts though. I don`t expect to go as far with the renovations either, your efforts are to be applauded Sir.
Thanks for the input. I have done a lot of thinking, and reading, over this recently, and having spoken to the company who will do the repairs I have a plan.
Once the body is off and chassis stripped, a blast should reveal any underlying issues. The outriggers will obviously be replaced and any other problems addressed, I will then have the chassis back for a trial fitting to mark up and drill the mounting holes in new corner plates. It will then go back for a second blast before hot zinc spray and powder coating. I like the original finish as opposed to a paint. I`m afraid I just can`t get my head around the galvanizing dip thing. I appreciate the durability of the finished product, but the thought of drilling holes in the chassis just ain`t for me, even without the (remote) possibility of distortion Others will no doubt tell me that I`m wrong and that it`s the way to go, fine, but I`m old school and happy to go with tried and tested.
I do plan on extremely picture heavy regular reports on progress, nowhere near as in depth and detailed as Pete Macs truly excellent efforts though. I don`t expect to go as far with the renovations either, your efforts are to be applauded Sir.
Mr Jenks said:
Hi Guys
Thanks for the input. I have done a lot of thinking, and reading, over this recently, and having spoken to the company who will do the repairs I have a plan.
Once the body is off and chassis stripped, a blast should reveal any underlying issues. The outriggers will obviously be replaced and any other problems addressed, I will then have the chassis back for a trial fitting to mark up and drill the mounting holes in new corner plates. It will then go back for a second blast before hot zinc spray and powder coating. I like the original finish as opposed to a paint. I`m afraid I just can`t get my head around the galvanizing dip thing. I appreciate the durability of the finished product, but the thought of drilling holes in the chassis just ain`t for me, even without the (remote) possibility of distortion Others will no doubt tell me that I`m wrong and that it`s the way to go, fine, but I`m old school and happy to go with tried and tested.
I do plan on extremely picture heavy regular reports on progress, nowhere near as in depth and detailed as Pete Macs truly excellent efforts though. I don`t expect to go as far with the renovations either, your efforts are to be applauded Sir.
Sounds like a good plan to me. There are many people who think I am a lunatic drilling holes but there is a bloke in Poland (I think) who has done it many times. As for being applauded, thank you however it has all come to a grinding halt whilst I finish my garden project. I work 4 weeks on and 4 weeks off so every 4 weeks I spend all the time on the current project. I hope to get back to the Griff this winter. I want to use the first Griff as a learning experience for when I do my 'Green Meanie' sometime in the future. Good luck and post those photos. PeteThanks for the input. I have done a lot of thinking, and reading, over this recently, and having spoken to the company who will do the repairs I have a plan.
Once the body is off and chassis stripped, a blast should reveal any underlying issues. The outriggers will obviously be replaced and any other problems addressed, I will then have the chassis back for a trial fitting to mark up and drill the mounting holes in new corner plates. It will then go back for a second blast before hot zinc spray and powder coating. I like the original finish as opposed to a paint. I`m afraid I just can`t get my head around the galvanizing dip thing. I appreciate the durability of the finished product, but the thought of drilling holes in the chassis just ain`t for me, even without the (remote) possibility of distortion Others will no doubt tell me that I`m wrong and that it`s the way to go, fine, but I`m old school and happy to go with tried and tested.
I do plan on extremely picture heavy regular reports on progress, nowhere near as in depth and detailed as Pete Macs truly excellent efforts though. I don`t expect to go as far with the renovations either, your efforts are to be applauded Sir.
I have just had my chassis blasted and I've been told its also gone aroung the passenger engine mount and some where else on the main chassis as well as both outriggers (pictures to follow).
i looked into hot dip galv and decided against it because it gives a really rough finish which takes ages to prep for a smooth paint finish, I'm going for hot zinc spray then 2k epoxy then stone chip where its vulnerable.
i looked into hot dip galv and decided against it because it gives a really rough finish which takes ages to prep for a smooth paint finish, I'm going for hot zinc spray then 2k epoxy then stone chip where its vulnerable.
After I have had my chassis galvanised I will report back on the finish, no reason why it should be rough but there may be a few snots where the zinc has dripped and hardened as well as whether it has warped or not, again no reason why it should.
I will also report back on what I finish the chassis with. Powder coating is probably my fall-back finish but I am tempted by POR15 (tough), some sort of epoxy paint or a marine paint of some sort (may be the same thing as the epoxy paint). Pete
I will also report back on what I finish the chassis with. Powder coating is probably my fall-back finish but I am tempted by POR15 (tough), some sort of epoxy paint or a marine paint of some sort (may be the same thing as the epoxy paint). Pete
Discopotatoes said:
some good info on this site
http://www.higalv.co.uk/technical-methods-of-coati...
This has convinced me I am doing the right thing. Drilling the chassis is the main drawback but I have been assured that it is not a major issue structurally and it is largely mitigated by the additional strength of the zinc. I think the chance of warping is minimal, probably a bit of a myth and often repeated with no real evidence.http://www.higalv.co.uk/technical-methods-of-coati...
You could argue it's over the top but why? I had to media blast the chassis anyway, drilling the holes took a few hours and sending it off to the galvanisers is hardly a big deal and the cost will not be high.
I will try to be there during the process and take pictures and a film.
I think I will finish with polyester powder coating. It's more cosmetic than anything. The question is, should I do it in white or silver...? Pete
They can powder coat following pre-treat that last in the North Sea for 25 years plus... do we realy need more than this?...
We have powder at work and I see the results... It would be more than acceptable if done correctly.
That said, if I were doing mine I think I'd wet spray it with POR15... that stuff is magic
We have powder at work and I see the results... It would be more than acceptable if done correctly.
That said, if I were doing mine I think I'd wet spray it with POR15... that stuff is magic
I believe it was me Pete who mentioned to you about Hot Zinc spraying. A great treatment process that does not dip the item into molten zinc, but does leave a nice even finish. It is used for extreme marine and automotive applications. One of my clients is a specialist powder coater (they are just down the road from the Lotus factory as it happens) and they have an extremely high spec coating which is used for the likes of JCB etc whereby the parts are finely shotblasted, then coated in a penetrative primer powder coating ('green cured', i.e. left soft so as the top coat then fully bonds right into the primer), then over the top with the decorative colour coat finish. Produces an ace finish and with an extreme protective property gauranteed for years in harsh environments. It is my intention to have this process done when I eventually do my chassis! All the best, Pete
PeteGriff said:
I believe it was me Pete who mentioned to you about Hot Zinc spraying. A great treatment process that does not dip the item into molten zinc, but does leave a nice even finish. It is used for extreme marine and automotive applications. One of my clients is a specialist powder coater (they are just down the road from the Lotus factory as it happens) and they have an extremely high spec coating which is used for the likes of JCB etc whereby the parts are finely shotblasted, then coated in a penetrative primer powder coating ('green cured', i.e. left soft so as the top coat then fully bonds right into the primer), then over the top with the decorative colour coat finish. Produces an ace finish and with an extreme protective property gauranteed for years in harsh environments. It is my intention to have this process done when I eventually do my chassis! All the best, Pete
Pete, it was you and I was going to contact you about this specialist coating. I thought it was a marine coating but whatever you recommend. As you see I still plan to go the galvanise route. If it all goes t!ts up then I can only blame myself, if it goes well, which I expect it to then I will report back (in fact I will report back anyway). Hope all is going well with you. I hope you saw that the stainless undertray including the new rubber mountings are cracking. I have yet to fit the dash. Thanks for all your hard work. Pete
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