Commute bike dilemma
Discussion
I'm in the process of choosing a new bike for the commute (long, mostly flat but with one short steep hill, mix of open road and congested urban).
I was about to buy a Hoy Shizuoka .001 http://www.evanscycles.com/products/hoy/shizuoka-0...
Looks ideal in many ways, The only thing I don't like is the square-taper BB.
But then I spotted this Eastway 3.0: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-fb30-tiagra-2015/
Damn! It's a great price, decent looking bike, but I'd be buying the Wiggle bike totally blind without ever having seen one. This bike has a "proper" road groupset, but I'm cautious of buying blind, and worried that the rigid all-alloy frame will be harsh on the bumpier sections of the ride.
But it's just too cheap to ignore! As is this http://www.evanscycles.com/products/pinnacle/neon-...
Too much choice...
I was about to buy a Hoy Shizuoka .001 http://www.evanscycles.com/products/hoy/shizuoka-0...
Looks ideal in many ways, The only thing I don't like is the square-taper BB.
But then I spotted this Eastway 3.0: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-fb30-tiagra-2015/
Damn! It's a great price, decent looking bike, but I'd be buying the Wiggle bike totally blind without ever having seen one. This bike has a "proper" road groupset, but I'm cautious of buying blind, and worried that the rigid all-alloy frame will be harsh on the bumpier sections of the ride.
But it's just too cheap to ignore! As is this http://www.evanscycles.com/products/pinnacle/neon-...
Too much choice...
gazza285 said:
Why so down on square taper? The Shimano BBs are cheap to buy and last much longer than the Hollowtech ones. Ideal for a commuter bike. My winter bikes are both on square taper.
I don't really know, I just associate them with cheap kids bikes and pedals falling off, but I have no recent experience with them on adult bikes, so the prejudice is probably unfounded.My commuter has a 10-speed Tiagra drivetrain bar the crankset, which is an FSA 10-speed square taper (Vero?) with a Shimano bottom bracket.
It's been absolutely flawless over the last 5,000km.
You could make a strong argument that a square taper crankset and BB is the way to go for a commuter bike that will see a lot of crappy weather. Just avoid the cheap BB's, get Shimano or SKF.
I would also add that if you're looking at that price point, try to get hydraulic brakes. 2x8 gears will be fine, really, but hydro discs will make a big difference to your wet weather riding.
It's been absolutely flawless over the last 5,000km.
You could make a strong argument that a square taper crankset and BB is the way to go for a commuter bike that will see a lot of crappy weather. Just avoid the cheap BB's, get Shimano or SKF.
I would also add that if you're looking at that price point, try to get hydraulic brakes. 2x8 gears will be fine, really, but hydro discs will make a big difference to your wet weather riding.
Edited by Barchettaman on Sunday 20th September 13:37
Edited by Barchettaman on Sunday 20th September 13:45
Barchettaman said:
I would also add that if you're looking at that price point, try to get hydraulic brakes. 2x8 gears will be fine, really, but hydro discs will make a big difference to your wet weather riding.
Yes, hydralic brakes would be a big plus. I don't consider big numbers of gears a bonus, I actually really like the idea of a 1x10 or 1x8 even.frisbee said:
Large volume tyres make frame material irrelevant. It's only really applicable to narrow road tyres at high pressure.
It's a fair point, but are 28s really large-volume? I have 28s on my current (steel) commuter bike, and they are only a bit more comfy than the 23s on my race bike (carbon). I realise I am not comparing apples with apples here, but I have previously had all-aluminium bikes that have been mega-harsh, but some of that will be down to the shape of the tubes! So many variables... that's why I am wary of buying online without a test ride.OP do you have an Evans near you? They do demos of any bike they sell, you have to book ahead and pay a security deposit, but apart from that it is no hassle. They also have a good range so you should be able to try the one you link to and some of its rivals.
I don't think a 1x10 gives you the range you need for a road bike. Going uphills you'll be fine for most things but you'll run out of gears downhill very quickly.
I don't think a 1x10 gives you the range you need for a road bike. Going uphills you'll be fine for most things but you'll run out of gears downhill very quickly.
I have alu, steel and carbon bikes , frame material on a commuter wouldn't bother me, personally I would stick 28-32c width decent tyres on anyway, once upto 32 they will absorb anything.
I wouldn't worry about square tapper BB, I had a Campag bottom model square bb on my last bike, looked a bit cheap, but after 6000 miles was still running really smooth. My last two bikes have hollotech ones, they last a year and run adequate, they have never been as smooth or long lasting as square taper ones. I bet you can get decent hollowtech ones, but my bike shop told me to treat them as a consumable and put a new one in each year for £15 a go.
Eastway looks a bargain and a god all rounder, swap out the Kenda tyres and job jobbed . Ive found the 10spd Tiagra really long lasting and no nonsense.
Hoy looks good, when I commute I only use my 38 ring, which is the same as the HOy, but as said above if you go down any steep hills you will pedal out, only really above 35mph though.
I wouldn't worry about square tapper BB, I had a Campag bottom model square bb on my last bike, looked a bit cheap, but after 6000 miles was still running really smooth. My last two bikes have hollotech ones, they last a year and run adequate, they have never been as smooth or long lasting as square taper ones. I bet you can get decent hollowtech ones, but my bike shop told me to treat them as a consumable and put a new one in each year for £15 a go.
Eastway looks a bargain and a god all rounder, swap out the Kenda tyres and job jobbed . Ive found the 10spd Tiagra really long lasting and no nonsense.
Hoy looks good, when I commute I only use my 38 ring, which is the same as the HOy, but as said above if you go down any steep hills you will pedal out, only really above 35mph though.
I'm not sure I believe that big tyres make frame material irrelevant. I can certainly tell the difference between steel and aluminium - even on an MTB with super wide knobbly tyres.
But aren't they both alu? Or have I missed something?
My last commuter was alu framed, but with riser bars so it took a little of the sting out the worst bumps. It did originally come with front suspension, but I always ran with it locked out. If you're trying to go fast, they just sapped all the effort you put in. I was going to get the forks changed for fully rigid ones, but the frame snapped and I bought a Brompton instead.
That aside. Only you know how you can climb hills and therefore how many gears you need, but as a for instance, my recent commuter purchase of a Brompton H6L means I can get up hills that I couldn't manage on my roadbike, and that only has 6 gears, Plus it will trundle along at a decent cadence at about 24/25 miles an hour. The only time I run out gears is on long downhills, but then the same thing happened on my 27 speed bike previously. So it's about usable spread rather than how many.
Square taper means you can run sealed units so they're maintenance free. In 17 years of commuting on several different bikes with square taper BBs I've never experienced any of the problems you're referring to. In fact, for someone like me who doesn't like to perform routine maintenance, they're a better option as they're fit and forget. Something like a Shimano UN-55 is cheap, easy enough to fit (with the right tools) and will give you years of service.
Unlike my partner at work, whose BB30 came completely undone, and left him struggling to not get run over while he limped to the kerbside with his cleat still attached to his pedal and crankarm.
The only other thing I'd stipulate on a commuter, is eyelets for mudguards. Yes, you can get those half mudgurda that clip on, but they're no substitute for full mudguards that keep spray off you and your drivetrain.
But aren't they both alu? Or have I missed something?
My last commuter was alu framed, but with riser bars so it took a little of the sting out the worst bumps. It did originally come with front suspension, but I always ran with it locked out. If you're trying to go fast, they just sapped all the effort you put in. I was going to get the forks changed for fully rigid ones, but the frame snapped and I bought a Brompton instead.
That aside. Only you know how you can climb hills and therefore how many gears you need, but as a for instance, my recent commuter purchase of a Brompton H6L means I can get up hills that I couldn't manage on my roadbike, and that only has 6 gears, Plus it will trundle along at a decent cadence at about 24/25 miles an hour. The only time I run out gears is on long downhills, but then the same thing happened on my 27 speed bike previously. So it's about usable spread rather than how many.
Square taper means you can run sealed units so they're maintenance free. In 17 years of commuting on several different bikes with square taper BBs I've never experienced any of the problems you're referring to. In fact, for someone like me who doesn't like to perform routine maintenance, they're a better option as they're fit and forget. Something like a Shimano UN-55 is cheap, easy enough to fit (with the right tools) and will give you years of service.
Unlike my partner at work, whose BB30 came completely undone, and left him struggling to not get run over while he limped to the kerbside with his cleat still attached to his pedal and crankarm.
The only other thing I'd stipulate on a commuter, is eyelets for mudguards. Yes, you can get those half mudgurda that clip on, but they're no substitute for full mudguards that keep spray off you and your drivetrain.
Edited by Kell on Monday 21st September 10:58
Kell said:
I'm not sure I believe that big tyres make frame material irrelevant. I can certainly tell the difference between steel and aluminium - even on an MTB with super wide knobbly tyres.
I'd agree with that. I was staggered at the extra smoothness that came from fitting carbon bars to a full suspension alloy bike with 2.3" tyres!Kell said:
I'm not sure I believe that big tyres make frame material irrelevant. I can certainly tell the difference between steel and aluminium - even on an MTB with super wide knobbly tyres.
But aren't they both alu? Or have I missed something?
My last commuter was alu framed, but with riser bars so it took a little of the sting out the worst bumps. It did originally come with front suspension, but I always ran with it locked out. If you're trying to go fast, they just sapped all the effort you put in. I was going to get the forks changed for fully rigid ones, but the frame snapped and I bought a Brompton instead.
That aside. Only you know how you can climb hills and therefore how many gears you need, but as a for instance, my recent commuter purchase of a Brompton H6L means I can get up hills that I couldn't manage on my roadbike, and that only has 6 gears, Plus it will trundle along at a decent cadence at about 24/25 miles an hour. The only time I run out gears is on long downhills, but then the same thing happened on my 27 speed bike previously. So it's about usable spread rather than how many.
Square taper means you can run sealed units so they're maintenance free. In 17 years of commuting on several different bikes with square taper BBs I've never experienced any of the problems you're referring to. In fact, for someone like me who doesn't like to perform routine maintenance, they're a better option as they're fit and forget. Something like a Shimano UN-55 is cheap, easy enough to fit (with the right tools) and will give you years of service.
Unlike my partner at work, whose BB30 came completely undone, and left him struggling to not get run over while he limped to the kerbside with his cleat still attached to his pedal and crankarm.
The only other thing I'd stipulate on a commuter, is eyelets for mudguards. Yes, you can get those half mudgurda that clip on, but they're no substitute for full mudguards that keep spray off you and your drivetrain.
You are right, they are both aluminium frames, but the Hoy has carefully shaped seat stays which have a lot of give in them. The straight stays on the Eastway are cheaper and will likely have a harsher ride. But aren't they both alu? Or have I missed something?
My last commuter was alu framed, but with riser bars so it took a little of the sting out the worst bumps. It did originally come with front suspension, but I always ran with it locked out. If you're trying to go fast, they just sapped all the effort you put in. I was going to get the forks changed for fully rigid ones, but the frame snapped and I bought a Brompton instead.
That aside. Only you know how you can climb hills and therefore how many gears you need, but as a for instance, my recent commuter purchase of a Brompton H6L means I can get up hills that I couldn't manage on my roadbike, and that only has 6 gears, Plus it will trundle along at a decent cadence at about 24/25 miles an hour. The only time I run out gears is on long downhills, but then the same thing happened on my 27 speed bike previously. So it's about usable spread rather than how many.
Square taper means you can run sealed units so they're maintenance free. In 17 years of commuting on several different bikes with square taper BBs I've never experienced any of the problems you're referring to. In fact, for someone like me who doesn't like to perform routine maintenance, they're a better option as they're fit and forget. Something like a Shimano UN-55 is cheap, easy enough to fit (with the right tools) and will give you years of service.
Unlike my partner at work, whose BB30 came completely undone, and left him struggling to not get run over while he limped to the kerbside with his cleat still attached to his pedal and crankarm.
The only other thing I'd stipulate on a commuter, is eyelets for mudguards. Yes, you can get those half mudgurda that clip on, but they're no substitute for full mudguards that keep spray off you and your drivetrain.
Edited by Kell on Monday 21st September 10:58
I can't prove that without a test ride of course!
EDIT: agreed on mudguards, hence my shortlist has only included bikes that will fit mudguards and a rack.
Edited by Mr Gear on Monday 21st September 21:18
HOGEPH said:
I'm in the same boat, but want a hub gear with disc brakes hybrid. Looked at Genesis Smithfield, Cube Hyde Race, Focus Planet.
Any other suggestions? I'm not sure about belt drive....
I liked the look of the Charge Grater 3 - take a look. Any other suggestions? I'm not sure about belt drive....
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/charge/grater-...
Very nice bike, but I want to avoid toe-overlap when mudguards are fitted, so have ruled this out.
Mr Gear said:
I liked the look of the Charge Grater 3 - take a look.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/charge/grater-...
Very nice bike, but I want to avoid toe-overlap when mudguards are fitted, so have ruled this out.
When would you actually envisage that being an issue? Both my road bike and CX bike have toe overlap (and that's without mudguards on the roadie), but in 3+ years of commuting into Central London, it hasn't ever been a problem.http://www.evanscycles.com/products/charge/grater-...
Very nice bike, but I want to avoid toe-overlap when mudguards are fitted, so have ruled this out.
Kermit power said:
When would you actually envisage that being an issue? Both my road bike and CX bike have toe overlap (and that's without mudguards on the roadie), but in 3+ years of commuting into Central London, it hasn't ever been a problem.
It certainly is an issue on my current commuter, a Charge Filter. It's not a problem above 10mph, because you simply don't turn the bars enough at those speeds, but i have a very tight uphill chicane to negotiate, an uphill mini roundabout, and usually some diabolical traffic to weave past at low speed too on my commute.I have caught my toe on the mudguard in the last couple of weeks which caused it to jam against the tyre, bringing the bike to an instant stop. Annoying at best, dangerous at worst.
On my race bike with no mudguards, it really isn't a problem. I don't ride it much in traffic and if my toe does touch the tyre, it just gets pushed out of the way.
Mr Gear said:
Kermit power said:
When would you actually envisage that being an issue? Both my road bike and CX bike have toe overlap (and that's without mudguards on the roadie), but in 3+ years of commuting into Central London, it hasn't ever been a problem.
It certainly is an issue on my current commuter, a Charge Filter. It's not a problem above 10mph, because you simply don't turn the bars enough at those speeds, but i have a very tight uphill chicane to negotiate, an uphill mini roundabout, and usually some diabolical traffic to weave past at low speed too on my commute.I have caught my toe on the mudguard in the last couple of weeks which caused it to jam against the tyre, bringing the bike to an instant stop. Annoying at best, dangerous at worst.
On my race bike with no mudguards, it really isn't a problem. I don't ride it much in traffic and if my toe does touch the tyre, it just gets pushed out of the way.
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