Discussion
My dials on the dashboard are not working such as speedo, tachometer, oil pressure warning light, but also boot button opener, radio, aso..
Lights and illuminating are OK.
Could you kindly inform which fuse I have to replace in a first stage. It is vey annoying since I can not open the boot via the dashboard button.
Please find below my fuses panel layout from my handbook (layout similar to the one showed at the bottom of page 240 of the "Bible").
Would it be the Dashboard (15A) fuse or another fuse ? Which one ?
On the Bible, the Dashboard fuse is the 11th from the left.
In my car the eleven from the left is a 30A (for Windows ?) so I am not sure this is the Dashboard Fuse.
Thank you for your help.
Lights and illuminating are OK.
Could you kindly inform which fuse I have to replace in a first stage. It is vey annoying since I can not open the boot via the dashboard button.
Please find below my fuses panel layout from my handbook (layout similar to the one showed at the bottom of page 240 of the "Bible").
Would it be the Dashboard (15A) fuse or another fuse ? Which one ?
On the Bible, the Dashboard fuse is the 11th from the left.
In my car the eleven from the left is a 30A (for Windows ?) so I am not sure this is the Dashboard Fuse.
Thank you for your help.
Yes the car starts without any problem. Only some buttons such boot relaese switch /gauges (fuel /tachometer/speedometer/aso)
from the dashboard are not responding. Same the radio.
I have not yet replaced the fuse (well on 10 th rang according my handbook).
Many thanks.
from the dashboard are not responding. Same the radio.
I have not yet replaced the fuse (well on 10 th rang according my handbook).
Many thanks.
QBee said:
Apologies if I have missed it. Does the car start and run?
I would use your handbook diagram as the reference. TVR used several layouts of fuse box which may or may not match what is in the Bible, use the Bible to guide you but be prepared for your car to be different from what is printed in it.
Looks like the 10th fuse from the left is the dashboard one, I would pull it out and see if it is blown (use a meter if you can. It won't cost very much to replace and there is little damage you can do. However it is possible that a new one may blow as well if there is a wiring issue. That would need to be investigated and probably by someone who knows their way around TVR electrics if you are not confident about how to trace and fix electrical issues.
Looks like the 10th fuse from the left is the dashboard one, I would pull it out and see if it is blown (use a meter if you can. It won't cost very much to replace and there is little damage you can do. However it is possible that a new one may blow as well if there is a wiring issue. That would need to be investigated and probably by someone who knows their way around TVR electrics if you are not confident about how to trace and fix electrical issues.
In my limited experience an electrical fault is almost never a blown fuse, with the exception of the 100 amp fuse. So do consider common earths, or a worn wire grounding.
For the future, consider replacing the contents of your fuse box with "glow then they blow" fuses. Will cost you about a tenner via Ebay. You need approx 5 of each, 10,15,20,25,30 amp IIRC. They do what it says on the tin - glow when they blow, via a tiny LED in the fuse. It will save a lot of future puzzling.
For the future, consider replacing the contents of your fuse box with "glow then they blow" fuses. Will cost you about a tenner via Ebay. You need approx 5 of each, 10,15,20,25,30 amp IIRC. They do what it says on the tin - glow when they blow, via a tiny LED in the fuse. It will save a lot of future puzzling.
I've had these in about 5 years now (but not had one blow!!):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Glow-Blade-Fuse-Litt...
Just be careful of shipping and customs charges from the US, although I found still cheaper than buying from the UK, although we did a group buy (about 5 of us).
FFG
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Glow-Blade-Fuse-Litt...
Just be careful of shipping and customs charges from the US, although I found still cheaper than buying from the UK, although we did a group buy (about 5 of us).
FFG
FlipFlopGriff said:
I've had these in about 5 years now (but not had one blow!!):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Glow-Blade-Fuse-Litt...
Just be careful of shipping and customs charges from the US, although I found still cheaper than buying from the UK, although we did a group buy (about 5 of us).
FFG
Ah, but the only reason you've not blown a fuse is because you refuse to touch that rats nest of wires which poor Andrea has to thread her feet through when you're out in your Griff.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Glow-Blade-Fuse-Litt...
Just be careful of shipping and customs charges from the US, although I found still cheaper than buying from the UK, although we did a group buy (about 5 of us).
FFG
I've blown about 4 of mine with all my tinkering.
Hmm, I wonder which one of us is the daft one eh!
Barreti said:
Ah, but the only reason you've not blown a fuse is because you refuse to touch that rats nest of wires which poor Andrea has to thread her feet through when you're out in your Griff.
I've blown about 4 of mine with all my tinkering.
Hmm, I wonder which one of us is the daft one eh!
Presume they work then?I've blown about 4 of mine with all my tinkering.
Hmm, I wonder which one of us is the daft one eh!
FFG
Thank you. In fact it was this time the fuse nr 16 : Ignition dash & RH door.
My car is LHD. I must add that the car audio system was reinstalled. The installer has installed a very big battery, new wiring, aso.
The first problem was 2 weeks ago : no flasher. The indicator output fuse was replaced.
By chance, when touching the wiring loom above the glove compartment, near the air vent, where the "wires" are bent, we noticed a possible short circuit.
Now, it is the Ignition dash & RH door.
Any idea where is the problem ?
Some people recommend to go back to the car audio installer, he knows what he did but I am not convinced since he doesn't know TVR and is located far from my home.
Thank you.
My car is LHD. I must add that the car audio system was reinstalled. The installer has installed a very big battery, new wiring, aso.
The first problem was 2 weeks ago : no flasher. The indicator output fuse was replaced.
By chance, when touching the wiring loom above the glove compartment, near the air vent, where the "wires" are bent, we noticed a possible short circuit.
Now, it is the Ignition dash & RH door.
Any idea where is the problem ?
Some people recommend to go back to the car audio installer, he knows what he did but I am not convinced since he doesn't know TVR and is located far from my home.
Thank you.
It sounds very nuch like a loose earth touching various live wires either behind your dash (new radio installation)or in the footwell if the wiring has been disturbed there.
I would disconnect your battery and remove the radio and have a good look around within the dash area.
There are numerous connections in the dash that if shorted to earth would blow a fuse.
As suggested above if you are not familiar with car electrics better to get someone who is to sort your problems.
Best of luck!
After a recent intermittent connection on the fuel pump circuit I decided to move the fuse/relay panel to the glove box, what a difference as checking fuses is now straightforward. Should have done it long ago.
I would disconnect your battery and remove the radio and have a good look around within the dash area.
There are numerous connections in the dash that if shorted to earth would blow a fuse.
As suggested above if you are not familiar with car electrics better to get someone who is to sort your problems.
Best of luck!
After a recent intermittent connection on the fuel pump circuit I decided to move the fuse/relay panel to the glove box, what a difference as checking fuses is now straightforward. Should have done it long ago.
FlipFlopGriff said:
John,
I think the cables are long enough to put the fuse board behind the passenger seat, running the cables down the side of the centre console.
FFG
I tried this when installing my Emerald ecu. Unfortunately on my 92 pre cat the loom was about 12" too short. Shame really as its a great idea. Didnt fancy cutting and splicing all the wires so back it went into the footwell. Later cars may well be different.I think the cables are long enough to put the fuse board behind the passenger seat, running the cables down the side of the centre console.
FFG
The move to the glovebox looks a good one.
The loom was easily long enough on my 96 500, as mentioned above other cars may not be.
I did have to strip back the plastic sheathing and got rid of the air con relays as mine is without air con.
Just in the process of mounting the ECU, Fuel and hot start relays onto a decent holder in stead of hanging like a Xmas tree. Will produce a write up when finished.
Without the fuse/relay box in place the ECU and relay holders can be properly mounted on the bulkhead. pics later.
Goodbye to the rats nest ( I hope!)
I did have to strip back the plastic sheathing and got rid of the air con relays as mine is without air con.
Just in the process of mounting the ECU, Fuel and hot start relays onto a decent holder in stead of hanging like a Xmas tree. Will produce a write up when finished.
Without the fuse/relay box in place the ECU and relay holders can be properly mounted on the bulkhead. pics later.
Goodbye to the rats nest ( I hope!)
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