Discussion
Its an imperial but a 34mm will work...
Its the largest impact socket that Halfords sell if you dont have one already. £6.50 job done.
It should have been torqued up to 150ft/lbs so will be tight but not immovable.
A long breaker bar and some chocks either side of the wheels. Handbrake on and in gear. Give it a good hard shove and it should loosen easily.
Dont do what I did first time though and put the bearing in backwards
>> Edited by Plotloss on Tuesday 8th February 11:47
Its the largest impact socket that Halfords sell if you dont have one already. £6.50 job done.
It should have been torqued up to 150ft/lbs so will be tight but not immovable.
A long breaker bar and some chocks either side of the wheels. Handbrake on and in gear. Give it a good hard shove and it should loosen easily.
Dont do what I did first time though and put the bearing in backwards
>> Edited by Plotloss on Tuesday 8th February 11:47
minimax said:
dumb question here but i'm learning all the time.... do you have to take the disc off to change the bearing?
if so, how?
I believe you do. IIRC you just undo the bolt on the end of the driveshaft, remove the thrust washer and then the disc should just come off. Of course, you have to remove the caliper from the disc first.
Absolutey right, as usual, James.
Once the disc is off you just undo the track rod end, ondo and split the top and bottom swivel pins and lift the hub out whilst leaving the drive shaft in-situ.
Make sure you clean the end of the drive shaft before pushing the hub with the new bearings in back on. If you don't you get dirt into the bearings, which then won't last too long.
Make sure you really do the big hub nut up very tight on re-assembly and fit a new spilt pin.
Tip: It's a good time to change the tie bar rubbers when the hub is out as the tie bar bolt is easy to remove and re-align then.
Once the disc is off you just undo the track rod end, ondo and split the top and bottom swivel pins and lift the hub out whilst leaving the drive shaft in-situ.
Make sure you clean the end of the drive shaft before pushing the hub with the new bearings in back on. If you don't you get dirt into the bearings, which then won't last too long.
Make sure you really do the big hub nut up very tight on re-assembly and fit a new spilt pin.
Tip: It's a good time to change the tie bar rubbers when the hub is out as the tie bar bolt is easy to remove and re-align then.
Went like clockwork. The hub came off very easily. Took the old taper bearings out only to see that the previous owner had butchered the inside of the hub, so that will need changing at some point. As for the bearings they drifted out alot easier than I first thought and the new bearings and seals slid in straight and without too much hassle. Put it all back on and had it done in an evening. It went as well as you could imagine and we had alot of fun doing it. The car went in next day and passed its mot. Not too bad really it only needed new ball joints and bearings on that wheel to stop the very excessive play that it failed on in the first place. Now thinking about wax oiling the underneath etc. Its a rolling project - solid car but needs alot of tlc. Thanks for asking
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