trailing arm suspension rear tie/sway/link bar
trailing arm suspension rear tie/sway/link bar
Author
Discussion

hallsie

Original Poster:

2,185 posts

243 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
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My rear tie bars on the FHC are both like bananas, and Im thinking this will have a bit of an affect on the stance and handling!

Has anyone tried a rose joint set up in a turnbuckle style?

It may be have a little less flex than the original metalstic bushes, but as Wedg1e will remind us, these metalastic bushes are only to be found in lord lucans underpants (although I do have 2 metalastic bushes!!!)

I have purchased poly bushes to replace the original bushes, but now Im thinking I may just go with a full on rose joint affair!

Anyone have any thoughts?

Stu

adam quantrill

11,627 posts

265 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
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Stu you can get the lower links straightened - obviously if they are bent then the distance between the centres will be shorter.

Also regarding bushes I think they benefit from poly bushing, because it keeps the hub more parallel to the chassis. But you need to turn down the rear shock a little or the ride will be too harsh. When I did mine the handling at the rear became far more predictable.

Also once they are poly then that bottom link will only go in one way. Stick with the big rubber bung at the front of the trailing arm as it will take up any slack.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

236 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
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My Racer is trailing arm and is all rose jointed / spherical bearing-ed , and handles lovely. was smooth as silk, last outing, esp after I drilled the chassis to 1/2 inch so I could use 1/2 inch bolts so they was a better fit to the rose joints, as it had 12mm bolts. plus had my shocks refreshed by nitron. and re-built the front turrets.

hallsie

Original Poster:

2,185 posts

243 months

Friday 16th October 2015
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TVRleigh_BBWR said:
My Racer is trailing arm and is all rose jointed / spherical bearing-ed , and handles lovely. was smooth as silk, last outing, esp after I drilled the chassis to 1/2 inch so I could use 1/2 inch bolts so they was a better fit to the rose joints, as it had 12mm bolts. plus had my shocks refreshed by nitron. and re-built the front turrets.
In that case Ill order the bits from Mcgill motorsport and use the high missalignment rod ends with spacers to make some tie bars.

Hmmmm, shiny!

mrzigazaga

18,757 posts

188 months

Friday 16th October 2015
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I think what John Halstead has done to his trailing arm 350i is the way to go...

Wedgefan

75 posts

126 months

Saturday 17th October 2015
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I've also decided to modify my rear suspension. While I've got the body off I'm going to fit a set of Tuscan rear suspension: Adapters on the diff output shafts to convert to CV jointed drive shafts; brackets in the appropriate place on the chassis to take the upper arms; modified A-frame type diff sub-frame for the lower arms; outboard brakes etc. I'll take some photos as I do it if anyone is interested (although it is a long term project!). I've got most of the parts now - I'll be starting early in the new year.

Pete

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

236 months

Saturday 17th October 2015
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Sounds interesting, be good to see the progress.

barrington

1,325 posts

254 months

Monday 19th October 2015
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have you ordered the bits yet stue and did you send the brakes off (I bet not )

hallsie

Original Poster:

2,185 posts

243 months

Monday 19th October 2015
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not yet, I, waiting for the fella who has them under his workshop bench to give the the centres measurement!!!!!

And no, still in my car waiting to go.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

236 months

Tuesday 20th October 2015
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hallsie said:
not yet, I, waiting for the fella who has them under his workshop bench to give the the centres measurement!!!!!

And no, still in my car waiting to go.
What centre size do you need, as I have 3 different types in my workshop. S1, S2 and OZ SE ones.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

236 months

Tuesday 20th October 2015
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Image of my rose joined Trailing arm setup