My Series 3 build

[aponting389]

Hi guys, i thought i would share (one of) my long term build projects with you

1975 Land Rover series 3 109 inch V8 Pickup

It started out as a 2.25 diesel, I bought it as a rolling chassis with most of the bodywork thrown in.

The chassis had been galvanised, axles reconditioned and painted and the guy i bought it from mounted the engine for me.

The engine is a 3.9 V8 from a 1996 Discovery, the auto box was discarded along with the EFI in favour of a Manual gearbox and carb setup.



The gearbox is a V8 specific manual but i didnt manage to source the correct bellhousing, so the gearsticks will be set further back into the cabin, which i am happy with. (it will also mean custom propshafts will have to me made up, but never mind) I kind of like the idea of having the gear sticks closer to the driver seeing as the gearbox has the shorter throw disovery type sticks.

TD5 Bulkhead and front panel trial fitting

|http://thumbsnap.com/QNO5p0jn[/url]

Here is the fitting of a new clutch and manual flywheel, the engine has been cleaned up a bit and downpipes had the cats cut off. my plan is to 'bodge' up an exhaust system for now, then when the thing is built take it to somebody who can build a full system for it.




Bulkhead and front panel painted in Land Rover Mid Grey (about the only thing authentic about this build)



Defender diesel radiator plus electric fan



remote oil filter to give front axle clearance



Steering box and pedal boxes fitted



brake lines being fitted




Hand brake disc convertion



So thats where I am right now, fully committed but a long way to go, I have some cool ideas for the rest of the build I just hope I have the time and motivation, and money to get on and finish it sometime this century

[dave7]

What a great project.

I've recently started on a Series 1 restoration, I just wish I had as much space as you!

[Trevor450]

Looks great! I'd love to do something like this but time, money and space are at a premium.

[300bhp/ton]

What carb setup are you going for. Twin SU's/Stomberg's stangle a low CR 3.5, I would highly recommend NOT using them on a 3.9, as it will defeat the point of trying to get more power.

A 4 brl carb or EFI is the only sensible option. 4 x SU's would work, just a pig to tune and expensive to get the bits.

[aponting389]

Weber 500cfm I think. From people I've spoke to that seems like a good candidate

[300bhp/ton]

I run one of those (well the Edlebrock branded version) on my 3.9 V8 in my TR7. I've always got on well with it. Massive step up from twin SU's IMO.

[b14]

What sort of braking system are you going for? With the 3.9 I'd be tempted to go for something a bit more powerful than stock 109 drums - the master cylinder appears to be standard set up. If you can stretch to a disc brake conversion that might be a plan.

[bakerstreet]

I think there is a French company who offer bespoke disc brake conversions for series land rovers. However they are very expensive at around £1200 for the kit. There are more old school ways of doing it. I've read that grinding down the discs is another method combined with 90 swivel hubs.

Great project though. I recently spent some time researching dropping a v8 into my series 3, but had to discount it due to the fact that I would have to modify the bulk head to clear the rear of the block and the manifolds. Did you have to modify the td5 bulkhead?

I'm probably going to go for a 300tdi instead. I'll have to pay to get the gearbox rebuilt though...

[aponting389]

Its a good point, and I have given a bit of thought to it, but after considering a couple of disc upgrades and different options i decided to stick with the standard brakes.

As you probably know they are twin leading shoes on the front, with two slave cylinders obviously. In my experience they are remarkably strong when adjusted properly.

For the type of driving I will be doing and using the truck for, they will be ideal

[aponting389]

bakerstreet said:

Did you have to modify the td5 bulkhead? .

Yes! this one had already been modified for a V8 to go into a defender, but I had to cut down the footwells even further so the engine could come slightly further back in order to keep the series 3 front end looking original (not like a V8 series 3, which I think looks bad)

[100SRV]

300bhp/ton said:

What carb setup are you going for. Twin SU's/Stomberg's stangle a low CR 3.5, I would highly recommend NOT using them on a 3.9, as it will defeat the point of trying to get more power.

A 4 brl carb or EFI is the only sensible option. 4 x SU's would work, just a pig to tune and expensive to get the bits.

I disagree, my 9.35:1 CR 3.9 ran fine on a pair of SU HIF44; you just have to use the correct needles. This assumes you are tuning for torque rather than trying to achieve high RPM power.

[300bhp/ton]

100SRV said:

I disagree, my 9.35:1 CR 3.9 ran fine on a pair of SU HIF44; you just have to use the correct needles. This assumes you are tuning for torque rather than trying to achieve high RPM power.

I'm not always convinced tuning for torque is what the answer is. I'm not saying you can't run them on such a carb setup, but I'm willing to bet you'll be leaving a lot of potential on the table.

Any 3.9 V8 running well, will make more than enough low end torque. But when it comes down to really needing some omph off road, it's nearly always power you'll be wanting and wheel speed. A Megasquirt EFI is probably the best solution, although more fiddly/complex to setup and potentially costly.

[100SRV]

300bhp/ton said:

I'm not always convinced tuning for torque is what the answer is. I'm not saying you can't run them on such a carb setup, but I'm willing to bet you'll be leaving a lot of potential on the table.

Any 3.9 V8 running well, will make more than enough low end torque. But when it comes down to really needing some omph off road, it's nearly always power you'll be wanting and wheel speed. A Megasquirt EFI is probably the best solution, although more fiddly/complex to setup and potentially costly.

Interesting concept. I suppose if the terrain is muddy and the driver wants the tyres to dig to a firm surface then wheelspin (or if busting dunes) is good but it runs the risk of powertrain damage.

The 3.9 V8 combination I used had more than enough power for any conditions but used OEM components.

I'm not convinced that Megasquirt is a viable solution for a vehicle to be depended upon hence my change to 14CUX; better than carburetters but retaining OEM components for serviceability.

Back on topic for a 109" Land Rover a pair of SUs will be fine; the last thing the porcelain drivetrain components need is more power to reduce them to swarf! ;-)

[300bhp/ton]

100SRV said:

Back on topic for a 109" Land Rover a pair of SUs will be fine; the last thing the porcelain drivetrain components need is more power to reduce them to swarf! ;-)

Lol

[EarlOfHazard]

bakerstreet said:

I think there is a French company who offer bespoke disc brake conversions for series land rovers. However they are very expensive at around £1200 for the kit. There are more old school ways of doing it. I've read that grinding down the discs is another method combined with 90 swivel hubs.

Great project though. I recently spent some time researching dropping a v8 into my series 3, but had to discount it due to the fact that I would have to modify the bulk head to clear the rear of the block and the manifolds. Did you have to modify the td5 bulkhead?

I'm probably going to go for a 300tdi instead. I'll have to pay to get the gearbox rebuilt though...

There is a British company called Zeus that do it - £585 for front axles. You can buy a rear kit as well and they'll give you a discount. My mate has a series 2 with just the front kit, it stops well enough.

http://www.zeus.uk.com/index.php?dispatch=products...