Water pump

[awep]

My S3 is dripping coolant when it's cold, so I think that it's probably time to replace the water pump.

Does anyone have any tips for this? Is it worth replacing/checking anything else while it's disassembled?

I have a new water pump but need to buy a gasket - does anyone have any recommendations on where to find one?

Thanks,

Alex

[S2Andy]

Be careful taking it off. The bolts (M6 from memory) tend to seize. I sheared one off and it was a pain to get the remains out. Replaced them with SS Allen bolts. Mine came with a gasket from local motor factor.

[Scoobimax]

I overhauled the complete cooling when I replaced the water pump - recorded radiator, otter switch replaced and installed a manual override fan switch. Didn't need new hoses but would have considered silicone ones.

All easy to find - I used a liquid gasket on the water pump along with the one supplied with the pump. Make sure you clean the old surface with a blade.

Max

[phillpot]

awep said:

need to buy a gasket - does anyone have any recommendations on where to find one?

Ford main dealer may still be able to supply, or good old Ebay

[jned2]

Replaced mine May last year, £48 inc vat from euro car parts, part no 201560305. Came complete with gasket.

[jned2]

Ooops just noticed it's only a gasket you're after.

[awep]

Thanks guys!

My gear knob is also fairly loose - it twists quite easily. Are there any recommendations on fixing this? PTFE tape/sealant?

[ijbd]

I suppose teflon tape would work.

My walnut gear knob though, had 3 allen key grub screws, holding onto a thread on the metal stick.
Was an "standard" TVR option when I bought the car.
I loctited each grubscrew, something like 22 years ago.
Never had any problems anymore. Stopped an annoying buzzing sound.
I would now use fine thread = loctite #542.

If yours does not use grubscrews, but is a screw on type, I would use coarse thread = #577.

mvg Boudewijn

[awep]

Thanks guys.

I spoke with a mechanic today about my overheating S3 - he recommended replacing the water pump and thermostat. These are the symptoms:

- Temp is getting into the red after around 5 minutes of driving (has only just started)
- No water loss (good level in expansion tank)
- No steam being released
- Had a new radiator in the last 1000 miles (system could have an air lock?)
- Since the engine has started to overheat, the interior heating has stopped working (again, air lock?)

Would love to know what you all think! Can anyone advise where to get a new thermostat from? And a replacement belt for the pump?

[TVRees]

awep said:

Can anyone advise where to get a new thermostat from? And a replacement belt for the pump?

Check the > useful links - general S information - alternative parts list < here on the forum. Both of the parts which you are looking for are readily available on eBay, for example.

[Rower]

awep said:

Thanks guys.

I spoke with a mechanic today about my overheating S3 - he recommended replacing the water pump and thermostat. These are the symptoms:

- Temp is getting into the red after around 5 minutes of driving (has only just started)
- No water loss (good level in expansion tank)
- No steam being released
- Had a new radiator in the last 1000 miles (system could have an air lock?)
- Since the engine has started to overheat, the interior heating has stopped working (again, air lock?)

Would love to know what you all think! Can anyone advise where to get a new thermostat from? And a replacement belt for the pump?

I reckon it is an air lock , because the bleed valve is at the bottom of the rad it is difficult to get all the air out , when running the engine make sure the Heater is On so the water circulates thro the heater Matrix .

[greymrj]

Certainly sounds like an air lock to me. I have installed a air bleed valve in the top part of the heater pipe so I can bleed mine.
Might be worth trying as follows: open up the heater valve, fill the swirl pot right up and start the engine. Disconnect the pipe above the heater valve. Wait until water comes out one way then put your finger over that end and wait for water to come out of the other, then replace the pipe. Refill the swirl pot to the very top but leave the cap off. Start the engine and let it warm up. Then rev the engine hard. You should see very clear evidence of the water flow and hopefully air being forced out. Mine refuses to bleed properly unless I rev the engine so the pump does its job.
Obviously if your pump isnt working right (it should be even if it is leaking) or the thermostat stays closed then it wont bleed properly.

(The air bleed valve I mentioned is available from Car Builder Solutions and is a very easy fit)

[Barkychoc]

Rower said:

I reckon it is an air lock , because the bleed valve is at the bottom of the rad it is difficult to get all the air out , when running the engine make sure the Heater is On so the water circulates thro the heater Matrix .

The V8S had the bleed valve at the top - can you mount the rad the other way up??

[phillpot]

awep said:

I spoke with a mechanic today - he recommended replacing the water pump and thermostat.

Stock answer from the same book as "got a mis-fire? replace plugs, leads and dizzy cap"


Water pumps rarely fail in that they stop pumping (in my experience), they may leak but so long as they are going round they pump.

(there have been relatively rare instances of plastic impellers failing on cheap after market items)


If you have a proper copper/brass radiator it isn't a big job to solder a bleed screw in, any rad repair shop should be able to do this if you don't have the facilities?




how about filling in "region" on your profile, helps if people know roughly where you are to pop round show you theirs, help etc...

Edited by phillpot on Monday 26th October 22:38

[glenrobbo]

phillpot said:

Stock answer from the same book as "got a mis-fire? replace plugs, leads and dizzy cap"


Water pumps rarely fail in that they stop pumping (in my experience), they may leak but so long as they are going round they pump.

(there have been relatively rare instances of plastic impellers failing on cheap after market items)

NB. I have experienced impeller failure on some BMW, Audi & VWs - original fit! The shaft turns but the plastic impeller remains stationary under load

But not our Cologne engine water pumps, which just develop gland leaks prior to bearing failure.

[awep]

Cheers for the help guys.

Did some diagnostics and saw that the thermostat is definitely opening at temperature. I noticed that the water pump is dripping water when cold, so I'm replacing that today at a friend's house - but I've left my bible at mine! Can anyone advise the torque setting for the water pump bolts?

I found this http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread....

Which says 10-12 N.m.

[glenrobbo]

My Haynes Granada manual ( 2.8 ) says 7ft.lbs, or 10Nm for the water pump and the thermostat housing screws.

I do not know if the torque figures were increased for the 2.9 engine, there was not a great difference between them. You do NOT want to overtighten them.

[phillpot]

awep said:

Can anyone advise the torque setting for the water pump bolts?

I've always thought that little bolts like those are far better done by "feel" rather than blindly whacked up (and possibly sheared off) with a torque wrench?

[glenrobbo]

phillpot said:

I've always thought that little bolts like those are far better done by "feel" rather than blindly whacked up (and possibly sheared off) with a torque wrench?

Yes Mike, but you only get to know how many white knuckles are required through experience.
It's no good doing them up until they shear, then back 3/4 of a turn!

[ukkid35]

Even if you have no intention of replacing a waterpump, it is well worth periodically removing the bolts (with a T bar if obstinate) and replacing them one by one with new bolts smothered in grease.