Passenger door not shutting (or not staying shut anyway)
Discussion
Had an on/off problem with my passenger door for a while now where it will intermittently just not latch when shut. You shut the door as normal and it just bounces open again.
At first I thought it was the interior handle being a bit stiff as if you pushed it a bit more closed it worked fine but now that is no longer working. Just a few random tugs at the cable to the door by pushing my fingers under the whale tail got it to shut last time.
Anybody got any ideas?
At first I thought it was the interior handle being a bit stiff as if you pushed it a bit more closed it worked fine but now that is no longer working. Just a few random tugs at the cable to the door by pushing my fingers under the whale tail got it to shut last time.
Anybody got any ideas?
Hi Rob
My Chim does this occasionally and all I do is spray the locking mechanism and solenoids with WD40.Acees via the flap behind the top of the seats.
I am assuming the Griff is similar to Chim. Or could be one of the solenoids is on the way out. But on mine it just gets a bit sticky. Only happens a couple of times a year at the most
Hope this helps
My Chim does this occasionally and all I do is spray the locking mechanism and solenoids with WD40.Acees via the flap behind the top of the seats.
I am assuming the Griff is similar to Chim. Or could be one of the solenoids is on the way out. But on mine it just gets a bit sticky. Only happens a couple of times a year at the most
Hope this helps
Had the same at the drivers door, it would only pick up the first latch and not the second.
Had the mechanism out of the car, cleaned and oiled it. Also checked all cables to run smoothly and little resistance, this was ok. This solved the problem.
One year later the door wouldn't lock. Solenoid was gone. Bought a cheap replacement and works fine. See http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=153...
Ronald
Had the mechanism out of the car, cleaned and oiled it. Also checked all cables to run smoothly and little resistance, this was ok. This solved the problem.
One year later the door wouldn't lock. Solenoid was gone. Bought a cheap replacement and works fine. See http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=153...
Ronald
I can understand your concern re the deleted post but has anyone ever heard of a Griffith being stolen?
Even if a potential thief was able to enter the car the chance of them hot wiring it in a reasonable time would IMHO be zero. Faced with the mess in the footwell most sensible crooks would move on to something easier.
I have just traced the complete immobiliser schematic that I may make available to known owners but even having this information I doubt whether most opportunistic thieves would get the car started in a reasonable time.
PD MIET
Even if a potential thief was able to enter the car the chance of them hot wiring it in a reasonable time would IMHO be zero. Faced with the mess in the footwell most sensible crooks would move on to something easier.
I have just traced the complete immobiliser schematic that I may make available to known owners but even having this information I doubt whether most opportunistic thieves would get the car started in a reasonable time.
PD MIET
Hi Rob, I had this about a year ago. After some investigation I solved the problem! It all started when I rearranged the cables in the boot; what happened was a slight increase in the tension, thus meaning the door lock did not quite latch on the second point (first latch was OK but tight). So, I opened the flap of carpet and adjusted the cable slack by undoing the small grub screw (found the cable was quite tight), it needs a bit of slack. Have a look it may solve your problem. All the best, Pete
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If not, could a mod do it please?