Replacing coolant hoses

[S3THUNDER]

Hi all, I noticed a slight leak coming from the hose connecting to the thermostat. I then noticed the narrow steel pipe that disappears into the front passenger wing completely rotten. So I've cleared my wallet and bought a full set of silicone hoses and stainless steel pipes for an early type cerb. My first question is how to get to the driver side lower hose? Is it best lift out the rad,as the jubilee clip is right in the corner.I've already had coolant poor into the front fibreglass section. Secondly the long narrow steel pipe that's rotten and goes into the body,which I think is for the heater.How do I get to the part that's hidden?

[billybradshaw]

Morning Mark,

The lower hose to the rad should be accessable if not from the top then from underneath. Jack the car up and maybe even remove the wheel to give you better wriggle room under the car The ease at which you'll get it off is proportional to the position of the jubilee clips.........

Lifting the rad up is also a good option and it should lift up quite easily if the above way fails.

The pipe that goes under the engine may / will necessitate removing the undertray. Watch for the anti roll bar falling down, secure it with cable ties so that gravity can't work it's mischief.

The smaller bore pipes that run up to and under the expansion tank can be accessed by removing said tank. Underneath you'll find yet more jubilee clips.

I've only just done mine so things are quite fresh in my mind if you have any other questions.

HTH

Cheers

Ian

[S3THUNDER]

Hi Ian, that's a great help. I was a bit daunted when I looked at it. Especially when I heard the water sensor is fragile and bound to be pain to undo. I guess I just have to get stuck in

Thanks a lot Mark

[billybradshaw]

Hello again,

Yes the temp sender and coil wound capillary pipe is quite a fragile item. Plenty of penetrating fluid may well help to get the lock nut/bolt undone.

Everything else is relatively straight forward. Probably a good idea to take some photos so you don't forget the hose routing. Also, use the old hoses to help you gauge the cutting to length of the new hoses as you'll possibly find that some are too long.

Cheers

Ian

[S3THUNDER]

Hi, I have started taking photo's and bought a can of plus gas,which hopefully will do the trick.

Thanks Mark

[ukkid35]

It's more difficult to seal silicone hoses than rubber, so I've started to switch to Mikalor clamps rather than Jubilee clips. They're about a quid each when bought online, but worth it.

[billybradshaw]

ukkid35 said:

It's more difficult to seal silicone hoses than rubber, so I've started to switch to Mikalor clamps rather than Jubilee clips. They're about a quid each when bought online, but worth it.

I don't suppose you know what sizes and how many of each are needed? I've used Mikalor clamps before and found them to be excellent. I might as well swap the jubilees for these before I fire up the wee beasty again.

Ta

Ian

[ukkid35]

So far I've used

29mm - 31mm, for the single medium hose

43mm - 47mm, for the large bore hoses

However, the 43mm are at the limit so I've bought some 40mm - 43mm as well

I've also bought but not fitted 23mm - 25mm for the smallest hoses

I haven't attempted to replace the clamps at the rear of the water rails, they don't seem prone to weep

[GT6k]

Take plenty of photos to make sure it all goes back together with the thermostat the right way around.

You might consider replacing the little plastic y-piece near the expansion tank, I found a stainless y-piece to do this.



Here is the view under the expansion tank



I put thermal wrap around all the small bore pipes at the back of the engine.

So afterwards it looks like this under the expansion tank

[S3THUNDER]

Thanks for the tips and photo's. I don't remember seeing the metal pipes attached to jubilee clips, as they go through the fibreglass. I'll have to check again.

Mark

[billybradshaw]

ukkid35 said:

So far I've used

29mm - 31mm, for the single medium hose

43mm - 47mm, for the large bore hoses

However, the 43mm are at the limit so I've bought some 40mm - 43mm as well

I've also bought but not fitted 23mm - 25mm for the smallest hoses

I haven't attempted to replace the clamps at the rear of the water rails, they don't seem prone to weep

B*gger, I bought the clamps in the sizes you suggested but there is no way the 40 - 43mm clamps will fit. I guess my hoses may well have a greater wall thickness as the OD is at 44.5mm when pushed over the metal pipes. Hey ho, back to Ebay.

Cheers,

Ian

[NuddyRap]

I've just done mine too and to offer a little bit of advice: Remember to stick some blutac in the socket or spanner that you use to loosen the radiator bleed screw when bleeding it afterwards .

If you drop that little brass bugger (Like I did) and it falls down then rolls underneath the radiator (Like it did) you might be spending a whole day (Like I did) trying to find it and fish it back because it seems no motor factor nor hardware shop has anything that will replace it.

A whole day gone for that moment of neglect, simply because I was giddy at the joyous prospect of taking the newly fixed beast for a good long run .

[ukkid35]

billybradshaw said:

B*gger, I bought the clamps in the sizes you suggested but there is no way the 40 - 43mm clamps will fit. I guess my hoses may well have a greater wall thickness as the OD is at 44.5mm when pushed over the metal pipes. Hey ho, back to Ebay.

Cheers,

Ian

I think the Coolant Rails may be slightly larger than the horizontal Coolant Pipes, as the pipes are the ones on the limit for 43mm on my car. Also my Silicone hoses are a few years old now, so may have thinner walls where they clamp though use. Also, I haven't actually fitted any of the 40mm clamps yet, I simply have them in reserve.

[billybradshaw]

ukkid35 said:

billybradshaw said:

B*gger, I bought the clamps in the sizes you suggested but there is no way the 40 - 43mm clamps will fit. I guess my hoses may well have a greater wall thickness as the OD is at 44.5mm when pushed over the metal pipes. Hey ho, back to Ebay.

Cheers,

Ian

I think the Coolant Rails may be slightly larger than the horizontal Coolant Pipes, as the pipes are the ones on the limit for 43mm on my car. Also my Silicone hoses are a few years old now, so may have thinner walls where they clamp though use. Also, I haven't actually fitted any of the 40mm clamps yet, I simply have them in reserve.

Yeah no worries, I'll do some measuring and report back for those folk who might want to do the same.

Cheers

Ian

[S3THUNDER]

I decided to have a go in the garage this evening...really wish I hadn't As mentioned before mine is an early 1997 4.2 with the narrow pipe that runs down the side of the engine then disappears into the wing just under the battery. Mine has a secondary alarm when the battery is removed..sounds like a parrot by the rear wheel arch. I was told to set the alarm, then disarm it and quickly remove the battery. It worked, so I then try removing the plate under the battery hoping there will be a hole to get to the b***dy narrow steel pipe. The plate is held down by two 13mm bolts, which turn ,but wont undo! Then I stupidly thought I should check the passenger footwell,so connect the battery followed by the alarm,which I can turn off,but now it wont arm. When I try to set it all I get is the damn alarm going off again. So my question is, am I right in thinking there is a hole under that plate? Secondly how do I reset the alarm?

thanks MARK

[billybradshaw]

S3THUNDER said:

I decided to have a go in the garage this evening...really wish I hadn't As mentioned before mine is an early 1997 4.2 with the narrow pipe that runs down the side of the engine then disappears into the wing just under the battery. Mine has a secondary alarm when the battery is removed..sounds like a parrot by the rear wheel arch. I was told to set the alarm, then disarm it and quickly remove the battery. It worked, so I then try removing the plate under the battery hoping there will be a hole to get to the b***dy narrow steel pipe. The plate is held down by two 13mm bolts, which turn ,but wont undo! Then I stupidly thought I should check the passenger footwell,so connect the battery followed by the alarm,which I can turn off,but now it wont arm. When I try to set it all I get is the damn alarm going off again. So my question is, am I right in thinking there is a hole under that plate? Secondly how do I reset the alarm?

thanks MARK

Hi Mark,

Sorry to hear you're having a few probs.

I removed the battery plate from my car, you'll find that there are two nuts lurking in the passenger foot-well. Crawl in there with a torch, remove the carpets, etc. and you'll see them. That said, there wasn't a hole under my plate but could well be under yours. I suppose there could be a removable panel in the wheel arch so check in there too. Mines a '98 car so I'm guessing really.

HTH

Ian

[S3THUNDER]

Hi, so you have the later and slightly different pipe routing. I'll have another look at it when I can. Thanks for your help

Mark

[billybradshaw]

S3THUNDER said:

Hi, so you have the later and slightly different pipe routing. I'll have another look at it when I can. Thanks for your help

Mark

This might help too:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=773...

[S3THUNDER]

Thanks. I found the pipes in the the passenger footwell. Next problem is the capillary pipe. I managed to take out the nut,but the glass tube is stuck in the steel pipe and I really don't want to brake it! Any ideas? I've tried gently pushing it out from inside the pipe with a piece of wood, but it won't move.

Thanks Mark

[billybradshaw]

S3THUNDER said:

Thanks. I found the pipes in the the passenger footwell. Next problem is the capillary pipe. I managed to take out the nut,but the glass tube is stuck in the steel pipe and I really don't want to brake it! Any ideas? I've tried gently pushing it out from inside the pipe with a piece of wood, but it won't move.

Thanks Mark

If you can move the pipe to a more accessible position I would suggest heating the boss (not the bulb or capillary) with a blow torch and squirt copious amounts of penetrating fluid down the hole and then lever out using the wood as before. Make sure the hole is as clean as possible as any rust, etc. will make it considerably harder to remove.