V8S - change of exhaust manifold
Discussion
asteinha said:
The screws are hard to reach.....
Never done a V8S but did do my Chimaera when I had it, all I can say is they are a real fiddle!possibly starter motor and engine mounts off to give some access to the lower bolts, jack up car and work from underneath?
And a good selection of spanners
phillpot said:
Never done a V8S but did do my Chimaera when I had it, all I can say is they are a real fiddle!
possibly starter motor and engine mounts off to give some access to the lower bolts, jack up car and work from underneath?
And a good selection of spanners
The V8S has a bit more room than the Chimaera, the engine does not sit so far back into the mouth of the transmission tunnel. V8S manifolds are a lot easier to remove than on a Chimaera. I would hate to have that job in front of me. I got my manifolds off in about 15-20 mins.possibly starter motor and engine mounts off to give some access to the lower bolts, jack up car and work from underneath?
And a good selection of spanners
I managed to remove my manifolds very easily with one of the spanners shown above and one other 14mm straight spanner. What I did was the tie a small piece of thick string to the ring on the opposite end of the spanner to recover the spanner if I dropped it and to pull onto it to loosen or tighten the nuts. Make sure you dose the manifold bolts with plus gas many times before you attempt to remove the bolts. I sprayed mine every night for about a week before attempting to remove them.
I removed the long induction pipe and moved the long anaconda cool air pipe out of the way. This pipe was later removed completely from the car. I managed to remove all the bolts from above and therefore did not need to remove the starter motor or work underneath the car. I could reach the rearmost bolt on the left-side of the car with my right arm inserted alongside the manifold.
I replaced the lower bolts with studs and nuts; it is far easier to get a nut onto a stud than trying to hold the manifold in place and then get a bolt into a hole. The studs also hold the gaskets in place when you are refitting the manifold. I didn't slot the lower slots on the manifold as some people do, there wasn't the need to, it was easy to rotate the manifolds onto the studs.
Whatever you do, make sure you run a tap into the threads before refitting the bolts/studs.
I refitted the manifolds to the block before trying to join the manifold to the Y-Piece. This was probably the worst part of the job as the manifolds need to be pulled together to the centre of the car so you can refit the bolts to the Y-piece. I have heard of people using tie-down straps to pull the Y-Piece together. Some people do it the other way around; they bolt the Y-piece and manifold together and then pull the manifold into the block with the bolts, but this sounds an easy way to strip the thread, especially as you will only have the bolt inserted into a few threads when you are putting a lot of stress on the thread.
glenrobbo said:
Toni, be sure to soak the manifold nuts and bolts with PlusGas or similar every day before you try to remove them.
And to run a tap through the threads in the head before you put the bolts back into the head. I replaced the lower bolts with studs. It is much easier to put the manifolds back over the studs (also holds the gaskets in place) than to wiggle a bolt around, potentially getting it cross threaded, especially with the N/S/R one. The nuts I used had a serrated flange to help them stay tight.
asteinha said:
Hello,
"I replaced the lower bolts with studs." ---> where did you get these studs?
Gruß
Toni
Trying to recall exactly where I got mine but I found these people in my bookmarks, so it is a good chance it was from them."I replaced the lower bolts with studs." ---> where did you get these studs?
Gruß
Toni
http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/self-colour-ste...
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